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Now I was wondering how you are able to keep the body rigidity up enough with all that metal gone.

Unibodies are typically a LOT trickier to chop up like that, 'cause damn near every piece of metal is a structural component to some extent.

What is left from the original, and what did you have to graft.....



489 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sunburn sucks! So does the damn rain. I need to put my wipers back on the windshield so I can see where I'm going when it rains.

As for the unibody, the roll cage has kept things more rigid than the body ever did. I don't have doors or hatches to open, so I can't really see how much flex the body goes through, but I havn't noticed anything significant so far. The cage is tied in at 8 points and at every point I made sure that tube or plate extended out to the main rail of the unibody. Within the next month or so I plan on cutting out the rockers and welding something solid into that, and then tying those and the cage into the sleaved rails that my suspension is welded to. It's trail only so I could care less if I get a unibody crack--everything important (except motor/tranny mounts) are tied into something more solid.

specs on the rig right now:

HP 44 front w/ 4.11's and lock wrong
custom lengthened and triangulated radius arms
4.5" RE ZJ coils
Ford 9" rear w/ 4.11's, full spool, and disk brakes
triangulated 4 link rear w/ Sway Away 14" coilovers
15 gallon cell
37" Mtr's on TR beadlocks
107" wheel base

It sits 10" higher than my stock ZJ but that includes the lift of the tires too. My stock tires are 225's so whatever the math work out to is the end hight. Probably around 5-6" of lift. I wanted it as low as possible for stability.

I'm going to high stear and hydraulic assist soon as well as 4.88's and some sort of selectable locker up front. Once that is done and I"ve beefed up the front end, I'm going to give UROC a go (legends class)

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