x2i was serious about that. he uses it for offroad duties so why make it pretty. if you throw a 3k paintjob on it then it would just get fucked up again. a beater is what i crave. you can make the baddest rig you can but dont make it pretty, thats just asking to have it fucked up.
Theft Proof??? - How to keep the thieves at bay.
Theft Proof???
Has anyone hooked up an electronic fuel pump with a cut-off switch? Similar to an ignition cut-off? I want to hook one up since I got my truck back from those bitch-ass thieves. I want it 100% theft proof & I dont think an ignition cut-off is enough. I dont have EFI so I'll have to buy an electronic one and hook it up. Too damn bad we cant have the theft proof they have in Russia where it burns the thieves legs w/ propane upon stealing it!!!!! Anyone have any suggestions??????
[email protected]
Thanks!!
Has anyone hooked up an electronic fuel pump with a cut-off switch? Similar to an ignition cut-off? I want to hook one up since I got my truck back from those bitch-ass thieves. I want it 100% theft proof & I dont think an ignition cut-off is enough. I dont have EFI so I'll have to buy an electronic one and hook it up. Too damn bad we cant have the theft proof they have in Russia where it burns the thieves legs w/ propane upon stealing it!!!!! Anyone have any suggestions??????
[email protected]
Thanks!!
161 - 180 of 180 Posts
After reading this thread, Im thinking someone should have a metal steering wheel, have it isolated from the column, and run a plug wire from the distributor to a three switch. The switch would give you two options, juice from the igniter to the distributor, or juice to the steering wheel.
Might want to get seat covers for someone who loose's control of certain functions.
Might want to get seat covers for someone who loose's control of certain functions.
my truck is garage kept after the my 44boggers where stolen!!!!! Now at night i keep my 125lb bull dog in the garage with my truck! i allso just pull the electronic fuel pump relay when truck is not being used i have motoin sensor lights on all 4 corners of the garage and a motion sensor that turns on a spot light in the master bedroom to wake me up
Oh this is good, the steering wheel is hot.After reading this thread, Im thinking someone should have a metal steering wheel, have it isolated from the column, and run a plug wire from the distributor to a three switch. The switch would give you two options, juice from the igniter to the distributor, or juice to the steering wheel.
Might want to get seat covers for someone who loose's control of certain functions.
Bummer on the 44 loss, guess I'm not the only asshat in the hood.
My dad had 3 system to keep his 78 z28 from getting stolen kept it in a fenced yard In the fenced yard was his trained pit (little bit) u can throw food over the fence all day and she wont eat it. and the 3rd was the way of getting your ass kicked by the car he had 1 wire attached to the trunk and another to a pole in the ground. i asked him why he did that and he said touch it and find out . i got knocked on my ass. cattle fence thing will put a hurting on u when u don't know it!
Use the vibrating motor in a pay as you go phone to set off an electronic detonator to detonate the explosives next to the gas tank effectively killing the person who stole your vehicle.
Ravelco, is the ONLY way to go...
I had a nicely built YJ stolen from SDSU during fall finals week, a few years ago. My replacement was an '05 Rubicon LJ. I wanted all the protection I could get, but without the noise of an alarm. I went with the Lo-Jack system with early warning (for insurance discount) and a Ravelco unit. The LoJack doesn't even work until the car is actually stolen. Anyway, during the first week of the spring semester, they tried to steal my replacement. They popped my door lock (hardtop) and broke the column. They had the instrument lights on, but couldn't get it started!!! Ravelco kept it from being stolen...
Many of our members use Ravelco, and swear by it. Check it out...
nohotwire.com
I had a nicely built YJ stolen from SDSU during fall finals week, a few years ago. My replacement was an '05 Rubicon LJ. I wanted all the protection I could get, but without the noise of an alarm. I went with the Lo-Jack system with early warning (for insurance discount) and a Ravelco unit. The LoJack doesn't even work until the car is actually stolen. Anyway, during the first week of the spring semester, they tried to steal my replacement. They popped my door lock (hardtop) and broke the column. They had the instrument lights on, but couldn't get it started!!! Ravelco kept it from being stolen...
Many of our members use Ravelco, and swear by it. Check it out...
nohotwire.com
............and watch someone dial a wrong number and blow your ass away. :shaking:Use the vibrating motor in a pay as you go phone to set off an electronic detonator to detonate the explosives next to the gas tank effectively killing the person who stole your vehicle.
I like the idea of a lojack, and in addition to it, make a fake dizzy to coil wire that is basically hollowed out- i usually just pull my coil wire and disconnect most of the sensors but this would look normal. So when I pull my dizzy wire at night and put the fake, dead one on , it still looks like normal. Same for the fuel pump relay. Just gut a relay an gut it. Everything will look normal. and easy to swap on/off. Lojack it if they figure that part out.
ive always had some kinda kill switch on my vehicles, on older vehicles i always recommend killing your coil somehow. that way if the theives get in it, it will just crank and crank and they will just think its a pos and leave it be.
and to be double paranoid i have a fuel kill on the frame rail on my 86 so if i park it somewhere for a while i can turn that off. so if they do find the kill switch they are only going to get a block away before the truck runs out of gas
and to be double paranoid i have a fuel kill on the frame rail on my 86 so if i park it somewhere for a while i can turn that off. so if they do find the kill switch they are only going to get a block away before the truck runs out of gas
My brother rewires his fuel pump relay so it can only get power with the headlights on, he had a Honda twenty years ago that lost power to the fuel pump, so he hack jobbed it buy jumping power from the taillights. A few weeks later someone tried to steal his car in the Sears parking lot, it died in fifty feet, the theif bailed.ive always had some kinda kill switch on my vehicles, on older vehicles i always recommend killing your coil somehow. that way if the theives get in it, it will just crank and crank and they will just think its a pos and leave it be.
and to be double paranoid i have a fuel kill on the frame rail on my 86 so if i park it somewhere for a while i can turn that off. so if they do find the kill switch they are only going to get a block away before the truck runs out of gas
The problem with that is. If it is stolen at night. They are going to turn the lights on anyway?:homer:
I have an alarm that disables the fuel pump, and a separate switch hidden under the carpet that does the same. It won't stop a thief with a tow truck, but most thieves won't spend the time to figure out why the engine died with the alarm going off and it out in the middle of the street / parking lot isle. It has just enough fuel in the line that if it is started and immediately put into gear, it moves about 15 feet before stalling. Has an internal siren that is a high-pitched wail that is designed to make it uncomfortable to be in the passenger compartment. Its also parked in a garage and I am very careful about where I park it when I drive it around town. Park up next to a pole or tree with the front wheels turned into the tree so it will be difficult to tow, etc. I think the best way to keep your vehicle from being stolen is to keep it out of sight when stored.
Also, get insurance that will cover the expense of all the parts. I have a 1994 Ford Explorer XLT with a leather interior. I know that "fair market value" will price it around $1000.00. AAA insurance has a "stated value" rider that I used to add $25000.00 to the value. It will not cover my time spent on the rig, but it will cover most of the cost of the build. The rider is approximately $10.00 per year for every $1000.00 of stated value.
Also, get insurance that will cover the expense of all the parts. I have a 1994 Ford Explorer XLT with a leather interior. I know that "fair market value" will price it around $1000.00. AAA insurance has a "stated value" rider that I used to add $25000.00 to the value. It will not cover my time spent on the rig, but it will cover most of the cost of the build. The rider is approximately $10.00 per year for every $1000.00 of stated value.
Do you park it in the same lot at the same times? Thieves cruise the lots looking for vehicles they can rely on being there. They can take their time and wait for a good moment to take it. My wife used to park her car in the employee lot of her work daily, in the same spot. It was a nice car. It got stolen in the middle of the afternoon out of a busy parking lot. The thief was caught after an auto theft unit staked out the lot and caught him stealing another car (a friend of mine was on the team). Thief told them he had been watching our car for weeks waiting for the right moment. Fucker actually bragged about it. It was driven across the border and according to him, was in Mexico City.I had a nicely built YJ stolen from SDSU during fall finals week, a few years ago. My replacement was an '05 Rubicon LJ. I wanted all the protection I could get, but without the noise of an alarm. I went with the Lo-Jack system with early warning (for insurance discount) and a Ravelco unit. The LoJack doesn't even work until the car is actually stolen. Anyway, during the first week of the spring semester, they tried to steal my replacement. They popped my door lock (hardtop) and broke the column. They had the instrument lights on, but couldn't get it started!!! Ravelco kept it from being stolen...
Many of our members use Ravelco, and swear by it. Check it out...
nohotwire.com
Anti theft???
Just keep your full coverage insurance paid and receipts for all parts. If your way over value then get a rider from your insurance.
Then challenge the thief's driving skill and wire a solenoid to the throttle to go full throttle and see if that fucker can drive for shit.
Problem solved!!!!:flipoff2::flipoff2:
Just keep your full coverage insurance paid and receipts for all parts. If your way over value then get a rider from your insurance.
Then challenge the thief's driving skill and wire a solenoid to the throttle to go full throttle and see if that fucker can drive for shit.
Problem solved!!!!:flipoff2::flipoff2:
Awesome Idea Sir!!!Then challenge the thief's driving skill and wire a solenoid to the throttle to go full throttle and see if that fucker can drive for shit.
Problem solved!!!!:flipoff2::flipoff2:
I should have been reading this thread awhile ago...lots of good info.
Nice suggestions are given.
I’ve seen a couple of cool ones
On an older vehicle with a carb
You can take the “crank and run “wire from the coil and run in thru a switch
The starter will run but the coil won’t get any power unless you hit the switch
No good against a under the hood hot wire though
The other easy one is a switch in line with the starter so both buttons have to be held down at the same time to run the starter
And using an oil pressure switch to run the coil or fuel pump with a bypass to allow the engine to run until it builds oil pressure
The GM TBIs actually had this , to move the electrical load for the fuel pump to a different circuit after the engine cranked
So you just moved the crank wire to a hidden switch and it won’t fire until you mash the hidden switch and it resets itself every time you shut off the engine
On an older vehicle with a carb
You can take the “crank and run “wire from the coil and run in thru a switch
The starter will run but the coil won’t get any power unless you hit the switch
No good against a under the hood hot wire though
The other easy one is a switch in line with the starter so both buttons have to be held down at the same time to run the starter
And using an oil pressure switch to run the coil or fuel pump with a bypass to allow the engine to run until it builds oil pressure
The GM TBIs actually had this , to move the electrical load for the fuel pump to a different circuit after the engine cranked
So you just moved the crank wire to a hidden switch and it won’t fire until you mash the hidden switch and it resets itself every time you shut off the engine
On the 90's Fords there is a fuel pump inertia switch. If you interrupt the ground it will not allow the fuel pump to activate. A simple on/off push switch hidden under the carpet or dash or wherever will prevent theft.
161 - 180 of 180 Posts
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