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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
too much axle wrap on front 60....what to do?? Anyone got pics of front traction bar or ladder bar....I saw some really good rear bars here,but cant seem to come up with a good design for front and still maintain good articulation.
BTW...89YJ SOA,SRS,Buggy,OME w/60...gonna kill my front springs...HELP!!...please <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Dumb Question but why wouldnt a rear bar work the same in the front?

What am i missing?
 

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I wouldn't run a rear style due to the height of that setup. It will likely interfere with the engine especialy with a 454. You are probably going to have to do a floating wishbone style with a heim on the centered part of the diff keep it as low as possible 3-4" rise next to the place where the casting meets the tube.

[ 10-09-2001: Message edited by: SteveN. ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
BM...I think you think I mean Track bar...
some type of ladder bar like Sam's Off Road.
Where to mount...forward or rearward...under engine....to buggy spring...to some kind of fabbed cross member...how long....should I use a shackle on end...I'm confused...I was thinking of goin to the front of the transmission skidplate....but how and where to connect to front axle?? <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by SteveN.:
<STRONG>
I wouldn't run a rear style due to the height of that setup. It will likely interfere with the engine especialy with a 454. You probably going to have to do a floating wishbone style with a heim on the centered part of the diff keep it as low as possible 3-4" rise next to the place where the casting meets the tube.</STRONG>
Steve has the right idea. Anyone have any pics of Welderboys set up for this guy?

Steve-

Will you delete that for sale post from the newbie?

I just emailed West Sierra but since you are on...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Steve...remember that the font p/s spring perch is part of the center housing....wouldn't that put one side outside the p/s frame rail??
 

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i have considered building one for the front like the one i run in the rear. i built one that is like the sam's bar for the rear and it works so why not the front? i have room. i will put it on the d/side and build a bracket off the framerail to make the attachment. tom elliston of sunray eng. (they build the ford 9"/60 hybrids) has a pretty sweet setup on his jeep. he built plates with a notch milled into them that attach to his spring plates. they attach so that they pivot side to side. they run up to the outside of the frame and a pulley rides in the milled slot. the slot alows for up and down yet prevents rolling action you get with wrap. the hard part would be getting the milled notch to have the correct arc so the suspension would work correctly.
 

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Originally posted by 1BDYJ:
<STRONG>Steve...remember that the font p/s spring perch is part of the center housing....wouldn't that put one side outside the p/s frame rail??</STRONG>
No on the inside one. You will need to run the front pivot from one place in the front(centered on the diff) to two in the rear (on the frame)


Alrighty Kev.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just a thought....hmhmhmhmhmhmhmh......Since it's SRS, could I use a rockring style plate on the front cover and use a single torque rod (like John Deere's)off of the top of the ring to a shackle hung off the front bumper(HD steel channel to frame, reinforced)..might not hang down as far as the MORE SRS...hmhmhmhmhmh and as the front end travels downward and the pinion angles upward than by rights the torque arm should be able to travel through without binding.
 

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I remember seein a yota in one of the mags a couple years back that had an interesting set up in the rear that should work for the front as well. It had a raised mount off the top of the spring plate, and a heim jointed link that went from the spring plate to the middle of the shackle. Lookes like it should work, by being mounted to the shackle should be able to move with the suspension as it flexes, but limit wrap. Would definatly call for some beefed mounts/shackles, but think im going to try it when I get the time. What do you think?

Think a Sams type bar would have to be offset too much to clear the oil pan and being so far from center would lead to some pretty strange handling if you had to stop. Maybe even uncontrolled turns while under power in 4wd.

Am I wrong here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
KW...I've tried spring plate type track bars and have broken a few from the torque of the big block...They dont seem to stretch with the spring as it compresses.
 

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The easiest way to solve your problem would be to get another set of springs, and stack 1 main leaf minus the ends and a second leaf on top of the existing main leaf. Then take of the buggy leafs OFF, they cause more problems than they are worth, I went through all this with my buggy leafs, the are worthless!!

Just my 2 cents

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
RB..wouldn't stacking the stronger main and second leaf on top of the existing main leaf limit the downward travel of the front spring? With the D60 weight it really bows the main leaf when drooping.
 

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Originally posted by 1BDYJ:
<STRONG>Just a thought....hmhmhmhmhmhmhmh......Since it's SRS, could I use a rockring style plate on the front cover and use a single torque rod (like John Deere's)off of the top of the ring to a shackle hung off the front bumper(HD steel channel to frame, reinforced)..might not hang down as far as the MORE SRS...hmhmhmhmhmh and as the front end travels downward and the pinion angles upward than by rights the torque arm should be able to travel through without binding.</STRONG>
sounds good but no need for the shackle, have the traction bar attach to one place on the rock ring (top) and the front crossmember and there you go. This works alot of times. no need for the sams style. Might also trying doing as rockbound says
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Someone's gotta have some pics???? <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by 1BDYJ:
<STRONG>RB..wouldn't stacking the stronger main and second leaf on top of the existing main leaf limit the downward travel of the front spring? With the D60 weight it really bows the main leaf when drooping.</STRONG>
I haven't had much of a difference in droop since I did this to mine, I thought the same thing but gave it a try. It really worked.

Think about it, a second main leaf and second leaf are just as flexable as the ones that are already on your jeep, the weight of the axle will still pull these springs down..

But it will help keep the pack from s shaping causing the wrap problem.

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Rockbound....would I use lift springs or factory YJ springs? fronts or rears or does it not matter? And I assume (hate that word)
I could use this set up in the rear also if I wanted too? <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by 1BDYJ:
<STRONG>Rockbound....would I use lift springs or factory YJ springs? fronts or rears or does it not matter? And I assume (hate that word)
I could use this set up in the rear also if I wanted too? <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
I am using stock springs for my spring over so I used stock springs as extras. If you are running lift springs you should probably use the lift springs so that the rating and shape of the springs are the same. Yes I am also using this set up in the rear of my jeep. No it doesn't matter if you use fronts or rears.

The stock leaf packs that I am running also have 1 of every leaf extra, making the leaf packs 8 and 10 springs, not including the extra leafs on top.


<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

[ 10-12-2001: Message edited by: rockbound ]
 
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