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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Diagnosis - after two years of "light" wheeling, mild trails, snow and fire roads my IFS finally took a major DUMP.... I tagged a rock while doing some whooops at moonrocks, then got high centered on a rock, and then it just went down hill from there, shredded the lift kit, snapped a tie rod end, destroyed the rear Dline and tranny mount :eek::eek: blah blah vlah IFS BLOWS

Solution - Do what chevy should have done in the first place

- steel rear drive shaft
- HP kingpin (79 ford ) 60
- King RESY coilovers :)
- hysteer
- 4 link front
- 4.10 gearing
- ARB front
- beadlocked 37's


I just order my PLATES "NOMOIFS":smokin:LOL



Here are a few initial PICS until the parts start rolling in... No real fab pics as I haven't broken out the hypertherm yet
 

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don't you need the axle level relative to the truck, not the ground?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
looks like you bailed out on the double cab taco idea/plan?
Needone of those too !!! . .actually I came to realize, that i would absolutley destroy a rig like that...

I need a 4 seater 1 ton buggy BAD..

my D-MAX is a light trail/ snow / DD / camping / tow rig:smokin:
 

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Should be a sweet project. Any particular reason you are thinking 4 link instead of 3 link plus a panhard? Just seems as a daily driver having the panhard would be better because of the reduction of bumpsteer.
 

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Should be a sweet project. Any particular reason you are thinking 4 link instead of 3 link plus a panhard? Just seems as a daily driver having the panhard would be better because of the reduction of bumpsteer.


id have to agree either way your gonna need a pan hard on that beast the three link should give you more room for drive shaft and exhaust clearance even if you radius arm the one side as this thing is not gonna need to be a flex monster but handling will be a priority id assume ... you have proven you have skills can't wait to see what you come up with :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
id have to agree either way your gonna need a pan hard on that beast the three link should give you more room for drive shaft and exhaust clearance even if you radius arm the one side as this thing is not gonna need to be a flex monster but handling will be a priority id assume ... you have proven you have skills can't wait to see what you come up with :smokin:
the "kit" I'm thinking about buying is a parallel 4 link with pan hard... Bottom line on this one is, I need to get this thing back up and running ASAP as its my DD, i have ZERO time to sit, stare and think about a system that might work.... I need something that's already been designed.. bolt / weld and go so to speak.... I would swap out their shocks for resy kings though, buy some balaistc fab arms / steering parts and pitman arm and brake lines from ORU

I'm still up in the air on this kit vs fabbing my own stuff.... I just don't have the time .. REALLY... Been working 12-14 hour days 6-7 days a week now, so time is a HUGE priority for me right now...

If I buy this kit I'm looking at one weekend worth of work to get back on the road...


I don't know.... Either way, I'm buying parts tomorrow, I need to get this thing rolling...
 

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we both know once you get that shit in your hands all your gonna see is it's limitations and what you should do :flipoff2:

i hear the time crunch part thou ...

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Universal-3-Link-Weld-On-Front-Kit-p-16803.html

that kit minus the upper frame brackets, the upper shock mounts are just 2 hoops w tabs, lowers are tab's on the axle so you have to make the upper frame mounts and tie the hoops together and you know that shit will take a pounding.

just trying to play devils advocate for ya ..:D


good luck looking forward to see what you come up with
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
we both know once you get that shit in your hands all your gonna see is it's limitations and what you should do :flipoff2:

i hear the time crunch part thou ...

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Universal-3-Link-Weld-On-Front-Kit-p-16803.html

that kit minus the upper frame brackets, the upper shock mounts are just 2 hoops w tabs, lowers are tab's on the axle so you have to make the upper frame mounts and tie the hoops together and you know that shit will take a pounding.

just trying to play devils advocate for ya ..:D

EDIT: if that pure performance kit was about 500 less without coilovers... I would be collecting disney points RIGHT NOW....


good luck looking forward to see what you come up with
I know... I spoke with dave about that very kit for about 30 minutes. Honestly, I'm torn between that kit and the pure performance kit thats a 100% fit, but is about 2K without coilovers:eek:

I just need to get the axle under their and start looking around.... no time though...
 

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lol of course you did :laughing::laughing:

tell dave he needs to prototype this swap so he can sell lots of them and you will be kind enough to let him use your truck for it ... :flipoff2:

im out the am is coming to fast have good one man
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
lol of course you did :laughing::laughing:

tell dave he needs to prototype this swap so he can sell lots of them and you will be kind enough to let him use your truck for it ... :flipoff2:

im out the am is coming to fast have good one man
told him that VERY THING.. his response.... Sooooo, how many people are throwin 60's under their D-maxs BRO... LOL


Out
 

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Dumb question, will the stock T-case work with that drivers drop axle?
 

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Dumb question, will the stock T-case work with that drivers drop axle?
The stock 261/263 is drivers drop if that's what you mean. It does have a slip yoke front output which is less than ideal for a lifted solid axle rig.
 

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Be carefull with ordering that steering from ORU....a few weeks ago, my swap that would only took two days took three weeks due to the steering arms being on back order and no one telling me about it when i placed my order. Ended up playing phone tag and finally got things lined out.

good look....youll love it, just wish i had went DMAX
 
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