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DOM tie rod, FJ 80 TRE's and jam nuts, DOM drag link and DRE's.......

Does one use blue loctite or antiseize compound?

The round DOM tube does not have "flats" machined into the ends, so the only way of holding it firmly when tightening the TRE jam nut, is to use a pipe wrench. Even with that, trying to get that coarse-threaded jam nut tight is a struggle. And the pipe wrench teeth mars the shyte outta the tube.

I have antisieze on the threads now.......but the concern is that it will loosen off with driving / vibes.

Which do you use?
 

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I use antisieze. And I will use a grinder to put some flats on tube or get a nut and bore it out and weld it onto the tube to have a hex to hold onto.
 

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Use nothing.

Pipe wrench marks are a sure sign of maintaining your shit. Be glad to see them. They do a fine job of securing the tube. If it's too short, or you're too weak, then use a cheater pipe to lengthen the handle.
 

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Use nothing.

Pipe wrench marks are a sure sign of maintaining your shit. Be glad to see them. They do a fine job of securing the tube. If it's too short, or you're too weak, then use a cheater pipe to lengthen the handle.
So you're saying you like a good fight? :flipoff2:
 

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So you're saying you like a good fight? :flipoff2:
No anti-seize, and it's not a 'good fight' but it also doesn't just 'accidentally loosen'. It's the perfect middle ground, whereby it stays tight and secure, but doesn't need undue effort to remove. ... at least up here in the Pacific Northwest. You folks down in the rust belt may feel differently.
 

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Years of me using anit-seize led me to use water proof wheel bearing grease (boat) inside the tube. Even with anti-seize, I ended up with several that still rusted inside the tube. We'll see how the grease holds up in a year or 2.
 

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No anti-seize, and it's not a 'good fight' but it also doesn't just 'accidentally loosen'. It's the perfect middle ground, whereby it stays tight and secure, but doesn't need undue effort to remove. ... at least up here in the Pacific Northwest. You folks down in the rust belt may feel differently.
Not going to argue. It's not how I'd do it, but OEM's follow your thought process, so meh.

What I really want to add is Arkansas is by no means the rust belt. Basically the whole lower 2/3'rds of the state is Texas weather with ample rain. Nothing rusts out here. It's only the very north part of the state that ever sees any rust form. Missouri is where rust actually starts.
 

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No anti-seize, and it's not a 'good fight' but it also doesn't just 'accidentally loosen'. It's the perfect middle ground, whereby it stays tight and secure, but doesn't need undue effort to remove. ... at least up here in the Pacific Northwest. You folks down in the rust belt may feel differently.
I would choose looking like the Tin Man's Stunt Double everyday, over fighting anything rusty that i could have prevented.
 

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RectorSeal Blu pipe dope. Very thin layer. Just like I'd put on brass pipe. Resists vibration, never fully hardens - simple to remove if/when needed.

New Dodge/Ram recall is tack welding the jam nuts on the drag link.

Thanks - Lumpy
 

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Antiseize isn't going to hurt, I never use it though. The jam nut should never come loose but even if it does just a quick check when walking past the front of the truck every now and again is all you need to do. I'm in KY, it's not super rusty but it's not just free by any means, I never have much problem out of any of my heims, suspension or steering.
 
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