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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have any experience with a tilt trailer like this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DS1su3XTO3k

I keep wanting a tilt trailer as I'm tired of dealing with ramps. I don't haul cars or anything fancy so I don't care about the the angle of tilt so much. I also don't haul often so having a hydraulic pump system and battery on board that needs to be maintained doesn't interest me either.

This seems to be the simple lightweight way to go. I just don't know what the downsides are to this system besides the time it takes to tilt it by hand?

Kevin
 

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I rent a tilt deck from the local rental place and it doesn't have any of that goofy ass tilt tongue deal. The frame is solid all the way to the axles, and the deck tilts on top of that. A pin releases it. It tilts with nothing more than my 130lb ass on the back and then stays there with gravity.

It has no hydraulics.

it sounds like a gravity tilt trailer is what you wants.
 

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I own an H&H 20 foot tilt bed, much like the video.
Mine has steel deck. Axles were swapped out for twin 5200 dexter with brakes. (10k total), and corresponding 6 lug wheels and heavier ply tires.
Mine also has heavier duty jack on it (kind of semi-truck style), and it's also electric/hydraulic power-tilt. 12v battery powers an electric motor which pumps the ram up and down. The battery charges via the truck's charging system, but I've also added a trickle charger to keep it topped off.

It's probably 15 years old now, and other than replacing lots of tires, couple sets of brakes, and many many bearing services, I'm happy. The hydraulic system's fluid reserve has a miniscule leak (might be from the ram?) that required one time topping off the fluid to full. The battery seems to last 7 or 8 years and needs replaced.

Because it's power tilt, it takes only a few seconds to go up or down.

Mods I've done include a tool box on the front, which required a spacer to raise the box, in order to clear the ram. I keep my straps and chains secured there.

Also, I load all the time by myself. Tilt it down, drive jeep halfway up. Tilt it back level. Hook up rear chains, drive forward till tight, and leave jeep in drive, pulling against chains until I get front chains secured. Turn jeep off, put it in park, and away I go. Total load time is mere minutes.

Lastly, I also keep a small winch for hauling dead cars onto trailer, since I already have the battery handy. This is removable, using a trailer 2 inch slug and quick connect wiring.

In the last 18 months (the time I've owned my new truck) the trailer has nearly 9000 miles on it.
 

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gumboot cloggeroo
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The one in the OP tilts similar to mine. Since it tilts on the axles and is NOT a single axle, it smooshes the rear axle into the ground when tilted. Mine does this as well, but since it's a 26 foot deck it's not too bad.

Mine tilts with a stupid simple boat winch. I too am not interested in maintaining a hydraullic or electric actuated system, especially on the front of a trailer that gets covered in road shit and salt every time it's used.

I've posted pics here before. I'm too lazy to look for them now. If you really want to see it look in the xmptsunami ice shack thread. Last pic.
 

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I had a single-axle built by EZLoader set up for 3 motorcycles. Used it for bikes and everything else you can think of including (twice) a Bridgeport.

Mine was designed so that the tongue sent up. This one is designed so the tongue goes down, which is better.
 

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I feel like loading on the tongue jack at that angle will cause the tongue jack to fold up.
 

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I have an H&H Speedloader like that. 18 ft and 2x 7k axles.

The deck is very steep when its tilted up high enough that the back hits the ground. The front axle comes off the ground so the rear axle really does get squished when loading heavier stuff. I don't think that specifically has bent my axles (but they are bent as fawk and need aligned/new tires).

Mine is an 07 so it goes without say that it needs a complete re-wiring and there is nothing of the factory paint left. Mine uses a long stroke bottle jack for tilting so it takes a couple minutes to lift it. I take the cylinder off for travelling so it doesn't get fawked.

Most cars can't take the approach angle so I stack 4 chunks of 2x4 under the back of the trailer and use a 2 ft piece of 2x10 so that the deck isn't so steep. So much for not dealing with ramps.

If its wet of snowy, even 4x4 trucks and awd SUVs can't climb the deck. Usually what I end up doing is getting on as far as possible, and then throwing a strap on the front tow hook up to the front of the trailer. Then you can let off the jack so that it starts to untilt. This only happens if you have enough weight far enough forward. If not you can get someone to pull you up or use another strap to untilt the trailer. Would really benefit from a winch at the front of the deck.

I guess the plus side of the H&H is that I do like the axle location. My old car hauler had the axles further back (and was only a 16ft) so I had to load all trucks backwards to get a nice tongue weight that wasn't excessive. The 18ft H&H has the axles in the right place so that I can haul a crew cab long box truck forward on the trailer and still set tongue weight. The H&H deck is higher with respect to the axles so while stuff is a little higher in the wind, you can also open car doors and not hit the fenders. Was opposite with my last car hauler.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have an H&H Speedloader like that. 18 ft and 2x 7k axles.

The deck is very steep when its tilted up high enough that the back hits the ground. The front axle comes off the ground so the rear axle really does get squished when loading heavier stuff. I don't think that specifically has bent my axles (but they are bent as fawk and need aligned/new tires).

Mine is an 07 so it goes without say that it needs a complete re-wiring and there is nothing of the factory paint left. Mine uses a long stroke bottle jack for tilting so it takes a couple minutes to lift it. I take the cylinder off for travelling so it doesn't get fawked.

Most cars can't take the approach angle so I stack 4 chunks of 2x4 under the back of the trailer and use a 2 ft piece of 2x10 so that the deck isn't so steep. So much for not dealing with ramps.

If its wet of snowy, even 4x4 trucks and awd SUVs can't climb the deck. Usually what I end up doing is getting on as far as possible, and then throwing a strap on the front tow hook up to the front of the trailer. Then you can let off the jack so that it starts to untilt. This only happens if you have enough weight far enough forward. If not you can get someone to pull you up or use another strap to untilt the trailer. Would really benefit from a winch at the front of the deck.

I guess the plus side of the H&H is that I do like the axle location. My old car hauler had the axles further back (and was only a 16ft) so I had to load all trucks backwards to get a nice tongue weight that wasn't excessive. The 18ft H&H has the axles in the right place so that I can haul a crew cab long box truck forward on the trailer and still set tongue weight. The H&H deck is higher with respect to the axles so while stuff is a little higher in the wind, you can also open car doors and not hit the fenders. Was opposite with my last car hauler.
Thanks for the info. That's interesting on axle placement. I have been thinking the opposite, all the tilt decks I see have the axle forward more than I would like. They do need to be forward to balance the deck and lessen the angle of tilt, but it seems like even on an 18ft trailer there is a ton of space wasted at the back that you simply can't load because it pulls tongue weight off the front. I could see with a long enough truck it would work out well though.

Kevin
 

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I guess it depends what you want to load but I find it fine for all cars and trucks. That's a 5.4 F350 so I guess its the worst case for what you are considering (axles too far forward) because its a long truck and not as much weight in the front. If it was a shorter truck or had a diesel it would be 12 inches further back probably.
 

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My neighbor has a 7k trailer where the axle slide and the deck tilts to the ground. The angle is pretty good, and it's easy to use. You unlock the tandam slide, set the parking brake on the trailer (it has a lever), and then back up until the deck slides back and touches the ground. I borrowed it one time to move some shipping crates of crap and it worked good with an electric pallet jack. I don't recall the brand, but it was a decent trailer if you only need a 7k.
Travis..
 

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I rent a tilt deck from the local rental place and it doesn't have any of that goofy ass tilt tongue deal. The frame is solid all the way to the axles, and the deck tilts on top of that. A pin releases it. It tilts with nothing more than my 130lb ass on the back and then stays there with gravity.

It has no hydraulics.

it sounds like a gravity tilt trailer is what you wants.
Yep, we have a bunch of them at work. Simple and effective. The only downside is that the axles need to be in the middle of the deck. Usually they are 16' and any extra deck is fixed to the frame. Which I actually like, because it gives you a spot for a quad, dirt bike, tool box, bucket, ect.
 

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My neighbor has a 7k trailer where the axle slide and the deck tilts to the ground. The angle is pretty good, and it's easy to use. You unlock the tandam slide, set the parking brake on the trailer (it has a lever), and then back up until the deck slides back and touches the ground. I borrowed it one time to move some shipping crates of crap and it worked good with an electric pallet jack. I don't recall the brand, but it was a decent trailer if you only need a 7k.
Travis..
Those are badass when you need as little angle as possible. With bigger trailers, you can also have multiple locations for the axles. Pretty expensive and overkill for what the op wants though.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah, these https://www.kwikload.com are pretty cool and would seem to fit my needs great, but I don't know about sliding the axle assembly on loose dirt/sand/wet ground etc..., also the whole mechanism to slide it makes things more complex, expensive and heavy.

I need to look a bit more at the gravity tilts with the front deck option. At this point I think I'll probably just make do with what I have and possibly fix the deck at some point.

Kevin
 

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Yep, we have a bunch of them at work. Simple and effective. The only downside is that the axles need to be in the middle of the deck. Usually they are 16' and any extra deck is fixed to the frame. Which I actually like, because it gives you a spot for a quad, dirt bike, tool box, bucket, ect.
these have the axles attached to the sub frame and the entire deck tilts.

I rent one when I need to move a tractor, because they are dumb low and super easy to get equipment onto.

next I'm over near the rental place I'll see if I cn get a manufacturer. They call them butlers.
 

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I have the exact trailer from the OP, and some BDL pics I can text you.

2012 IIRC

I bought that trailer in wood, cheap, as a test after downsizing from a rollback tow truck.

I had owned well built, better specd 7k car trailers and was used to bulldog couplers, flip down jacks, etc, be ready for a cheaper trailer.

I've added a headache rail, a winch mount, battery box, harbor freight air over hydraulic ram, 11ga steel deck, tie downs, removable fenders etc.

I'm about to put some resources into my setup, the goal is to load a dead truck with flat tires, chained down and pulling away in 5 minutes.

I will build a bigger trailer with the same idea.

The axles are further forward than a traditional 18' hauler, with a long wheelbase truck on it, it wags the dog.

I wouldn't go any other way
 

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The axles are further forward than a traditional 18' hauler, with a long wheelbase truck on it, it wags the dog.

I wouldn't go any other way
You have to think of the rear few feet of the deck as non-removeable ramps, you can't use all of the deck unless the stuff at the rear is really light. If they put the axles in the normal spot, the deck angle when tilted would be WAY to steep.
Travis..
 

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Not sure what you guys are arguing about.

I OWN the 20 foot version of that trailer, and my axles seem to be in an ideal location. And even though it's normally carrying my Jeep, it did haul my 05 Supercrapford home when it blew the engine 500 miles away. Had absolutely zero problems hauling an extended cab longbed.
 
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