[DRM]

Tips on hooking up gauges to my CTD?

98 12v CTD

Just got full set of gauges & pillar pod :bounce2:

Pyro - Tranny Temp - Boost


Any tips or tricks for the install? Where should the tranny temp sensor go? Where *exactly* should the boost sensor go? Where exactly should the pyro sensor go?

Thanks

 

[one eye]

And for my self, how hard is it to install a set of gauges? I want them but have a hard time working on a truck that costs 40 grand. I don't mean to hyjack the thread but this is directly related.

 

[JR2]

Here is a good set of basic instructions for the pyro. The boost is also covered on this page. It will work for your 12v motor, but not the 24v motors as the boost port is not there on the 24v.

The tranny temp sensor needs to be in the line going to the tranny cooler. That is by far the best place and of course the hardest to do. You can cut the line and install a bunch of fittings to make it work or you can call www.dieseltrans and order a new line that includes a place to install your temp sensor. The DC p/n for the cooler line is 5011244AA. You will need to remove the check ball and spring in the new line. It is not needed on yours.
You will get a better price from DTT than the dealer.


This page has links to more modifications that you might ever be able to complete.

Good luck and you should consider joining the Turbodieselregiester as it has a wealth of info on Dodge Diesels..

www.turbodieselregister.com

 

[JR2]

One eye - Installing gauges is not hard at all. I had almost no idea what I was doing when I did mine and they work fine.


One thing I forgot to mention in the post above. When you install your boost sensor its best to mount it off the engine and use a hose to connect to the engine. This prevents the vibrations from the engine destroying your sensor. Most guys use the hose from a greese gun to do it, they run about $5 bucks at home depot and are rated to 5000 psi.

For you 24v guys out there, I strongly reccomend installing a fuel pressure sensor. The lift pumps (pump that sucks fuel from the tank and feeds the bosch VP44 injection pump) suck and when they die they take the VP44 with em. You will not notice the lift pump failure till its too late.

JR2

 

[jstarnes]

before you just plug the 3 guage pod onto the pillar make sure you can lower your visor

use the little green light covers to match the dash back light


buy a turbo gascut and remove the turbo as to not get sawrf in it (if you pre pyro it)


tap into the head light switch for the dimmer circut (turn the knob all dash lights dimm)

 

[DRM]

Drop the turbo? Seems like a PITA.... and easier to just install the pyro post-turbo

Seems like the grease trick would work to keep chips out of the way...

 

[Fear Factory]

DO NOT install the pyro probe sensor after the turbo, the reading you get will be useless for anything except turbo cool down. Use grease on the drill bit and tap and also a magnet to keep the filings out of the exhaust. If you fear the slim chance of a large filing wedging into the turbine, drop the turbo, it's not that hard.

The boost pressure gauge install on the engine is best achieved by removing a 1/8NPT pipe plug from the side of the intake manifold near the fuel filter and injection pump. Use a 1/8NPT ell with 1/8" compression fitting to plumb to the gauge. One of these ports is used to run the AFC so it will look similar.

 

[Dan Dibble]

David, I used the above links and installed my gauges. No problems. The manifold drilled and tapped very easy. I didnt use grease just a very strong magnet, with frequent stops to clean it out. The port for the boost gauge is their, kind of hard to see but its thier. I used a 1/8" npt to AN fitting then a braided (what else ) to the firewall. Then from the fire wall I used about 40 feet of refrigerator water line to the gauge. (Motorhome) Works good. I had fitting in my Allison pan for the temp gauge.

Good Luck, Dan

 

[DRM]

Thanks guys.

Looks like the boost gauge has the necessary hose and fittings, pyro has everything as well.

I will grease the bit, then chase with a magnet too. If in doubt - turbo comes out

Tranny sender is the one I am still wondering about. If not in the pan, where is the line located so I can throw a T adapter in there?

 

[weedwacker]

Maybe these pics will post? This is a 01 pan, put the bung in the back of the pan so airflow might not skew the readings.

 

[weedwacker]

nuther shot

 

[DRM]

Looks like this kit did not come with a bung for the tranny sensor... so I gotta make or buy one if I wanna put it in the pan.

 

[weedwacker]

or send me 25 bucks and I'll send you the pan in the picture. It is just taking up space since I got the mag tec deep pan.

 

[JR2]

The pan is not the best place to measure the temp as it runs way cooler than the actual fluid temp when its on its way to the cooler. I must admit that I have mine in my pan right now, but I am getting a tranny upgrade soon and will move it to the line then.

 

[Joe_W]

The pan is not the best place to measure the temp as it runs way cooler than the actual fluid temp when its on its way to the cooler. I must admit that I have mine in my pan right now, but I am getting a tranny upgrade soon and will move it to the line then.

From what I have seen on the tranny temp gauges and the instructions for mine say to put it in the line returning from the cooler since that is the temp being fed to the tranny.

Dunno..thats just what the instructions say

 

[Dan Dibble]

The pan is not the best place to measure the temp as it runs way cooler than the actual fluid temp when its on its way to the cooler. I must admit that I have mine in my pan right now, but I am getting a tranny upgrade soon and will move it to the line then.

I have had them in both places and either one will work you are looking for a baseline. The diff in the two will only be about twenty deg.

Dan

 

[DRM]

Well, 85% done with the install.


Boost was easy as can be,

Pyro was easy too - tapped in pre-turbo.

We did everything but run the positive lead for the tranny gauge, and the wire and sender for the tranny gauge.

weedwacker - I may just take you up on your pan offer and save myself some effort

I am a little disappointed with how the pillar pod works - especially how you have to cut up your stock one and use plastic trim brads to attach the pod one on top of the stock one. Just does not fit *right*, but I guess I will get used to it.

Still gotta pick up some green boots for the gauge bulbs, the plain ones are BRIGHT.

Tapped into the fuse panel to get my dimmable hot lead.

Where is a good place to get a switched positive for the tranny gauge?

 

[TR]

ok u all are saying the line going to the cooler would be the hottest right??? well i ask how??? the pump picks up fluid from the bottom of the pan and pumps it to the cooler then from the cooler it goes to the valve body and lubing circuits, then after its done its job lubricating or shifting it drops to the pan, soo the fluid level toward the top of the pan would be the hottest place correct???

 

[jstarnes]

Where is a good place to get a switched positive for the tranny gauge?

there is a large blue wire at the base of the steering colum it is hot with key on in the run position but not acc position

 

[GRMhick]

I thought that the tranny gague sensor went on the output of the tranny cooler also. My instuructions say so on my BM gague. Is there a reason why it should be on the side going in?