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1981 22r.. Front main seal is puking oil and making a mess in my driveway. I've finally gotten around to fixing it, but I cant get the @#[email protected]$ front pulley off!

I've tried:
1) heating with blow torch
2) Long breaker bar, in 2nd gear, - truck just moves!
3) Left breaker bar under rt front frame bar, turned starter... Big clunk, but no removal!

Any other suggestions from the experts? I've already broken a 3/8 socket, one finger, and I'm just generally pissed off!

Help appreciated!
 

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I think I put mine in 4th,4wd,w/emergency
brake on.Still a b-tch,but it did come loose.
8 weeks later,it's leaking again.
Curtis
 

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When I did the timing chain on my '94 22RE, it took hitting it with the 1/2" impact while it was in gear, with the parking brake on, and a foot on the brake pedal.

Good luck if you don't have access to air tools! (and maybe even if you do)
 

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Originally posted by dcg9381:
<STRONG>1981 22r.. Front main seal is puking oil and making a mess in my driveway. I've finally gotten around to fixing it, but I cant get the @#[email protected]$ front pulley off!

I've tried:
1) heating with blow torch
2) Long breaker bar, in 2nd gear, - truck just moves!
3) Left breaker bar under rt front frame bar, turned starter... Big clunk, but no removal!

Any other suggestions from the experts? I've already broken a 3/8 socket, one finger, and I'm just generally pissed off!</STRONG>
Minimum 1/2" drive *impact* socket (19mm) and a breaker bar to reach the frame then hit the starter (truck out of gear). I broke the first 19mm impact socket on mine, second one did the trick.
 

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Originally posted by dcg9381:
<STRONG>
Any other suggestions from the experts? I've already broken a 3/8 socket, one finger, and I'm just generally pissed off!

Help appreciated!</STRONG>
What the heck are you smoking, a 3/8ths socket <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> Get some real tools before you break everything you got. 1/2" drive socket and breaker under the frame and use the starter, if that does not work find some body with a "GOOD" impact wrench. 3/8 ths drive sockets are for small stuff not big ass bolts, oh yeah use a 6-point socket or you will strip the bolt and then you will have another problem!!!

<IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

[ 08-13-2001: Message edited by: OPP'S ]
 

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I stuck a screw driver between the pully slots and held it and took my breaker bar and put a piece of pipe on it as an extension and it came off with a lot of force
 

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48" pipe wrench and the right size equipment in 1/2" tools and a long breaker bar. Will come off with a grunt.
Or the air tools mentioned above, whatever is easier. As David said, forget the 3/8" stuff.
HTH
Danny
 

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I had the truck in gear with parking brake on and used a 19mm socket on a breaker bar with 1/2" end. Took about an hour and the truck rocked back and forth quite a bit. I didn't know about using the frame and cranking the engine, sounds much easier. If none of this works, try an impact gun, but make sure there is penty of pressure built up so you get the full power of the gun cranking on the bolt.

Jeremy

[ 08-14-2001: Message edited by: bullfrog ]
 

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WTF are these things torqued to??? Is there factory thread sealer??? <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by scouter77:
<STRONG>WTF are these things torqued to??? Is there factory thread sealer??? <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Possibility never has been off and over time dirt and grease work there way into the threads and work better then Lock-Tite.
 

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Make sure the pully doesn't have a groove in it from the old seal, otherwise it will just tear up the new one. Also, a new replacement seal directly from Toyota will likely have the seal lip in a slightly different location, and will ride on a fresh spot on the pulley so a groove won't matter. Aftermarket (Fel-Pro, etc) seals will be exactly the same as your original, unfortunately. Pretty cool for Toyota Parts to think of that!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the advice, guys. It's still on there, but I've got a buddy coming to help out with the removal tomorrow.

I ordered a chain wrench from Grainger, super HD for $65 to hold the pulley itself.. That and my 4-ft breaker bar should help out... If not, I'm gonna be screwed!!!

-d
 

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<font color="yellow">
Post whatever your solution was to get this thing off! I'm sick or reading everyones problems on here, a list of 15 random suggestions, and never seeing a conclusion!</font>
 

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I'm in the middle of putting my new seal in right now. Just taking a lunch break. I just got the radiator out and I'm preparing to try using my 18" long 1/2" break bar. Wish me luck.
 

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I broke 2 Craftsman extensions doing this before I went ahead and got out my 1/2 inch drive. Sears replaced them of course.
 

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one of my friends is doing the same thing. but he rmoves the tranny to replace the rear main seal so the starter trick would not work. he took the oil pan off and put a plastic dead blow hammer between the crank pins and the block. a long breaker bar and a cheater bar and the bolt came right off, then they just slid the balancer right off the end of the crank. Also he got a new oil seal from Napa and it had 2 seal lips on it, one before the groove and one after the groove.
 

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I recently did the front main seal in my Cruiser, those bolts are MUCH tighter than the 22R bolt, and it takes a 46mm (1-13/16") socket. I tried my big 1/2" impact gun at 150 psi, no way. What finally did the trick was getting a 3/4" breaker bar and wedging/bungeed it in the frame, then I parked another truck next to it and ran jumper cables to the battery, reved it up to get good juice going. Took about 12 hits on the starter, but it popped loose.



Torque spec on this bolt is 254 ft-lbs :eek: Fortunately I already had the oil pan off, so to get it this tight I wedged a chunk of wood betweeen the crank and the block so it couldn't turn, then borrowed a BIG torque wrench from AutoZone and ate a bowl of Wheaties. :D
 
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