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Discussion Starter #1
what your opinions on tire sizes? whats too big or better yet what equipment do you think is necessary for a certian size tire?

i do mostly rockcrawling so i think the bigger, the better to a point. if the tires get so heavy or have so much leverage to start breaking axles and other drivetrain equipment, theres not much advantage to the bigger rubber.

so whats your ideas on what tire sizes for what kind of equipment/wheelin?

i think a 38" tire is a good compromise tire because it "could be" run on 1/2 ton axles with the right driver and run on 1 ton axles with about every driver.:D

come on guys, dont be shy, give up your experiences and technical aspects that you've come up with. i just started this thread cause i'm tired of the "lightweight" crew and their opinions which reflect nothing compared to heavy rigs.
 

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FULLSIZE said:
i think a 38" tire is a good compromise tire because it "could be" run on 1/2 ton axles with the right driver and run on 1 ton axles with about every driver.:D
Man, I think you'd have to be a real feather foot to run 38's on a Dana 44. I've got 35's on my 3/4 ton axles (44 front) and I wouldn't run anything bigger. I think I'm pretty light on the throttle, but maybe not. I've never run anything bigger than 35's, yet. They work ok, but I really want to run 38's. I'll wait untill I find that mythical cheap Dana 60 front before I upgrade the tire size.

Basically, like you said, bigger is better, to a point.

FULLSIZE said:
come on guys, dont be shy, give up your experiences and technical aspects that you've come up with. i just started this thread cause i'm tired of the "lightweight" crew and their opinions which reflect nothing compared to heavy rigs.
You mean the whole "z-links are perfectly safe for the little guys"? LOL If so, I think I ruffed his feathers in a similar thread on rockymountainextreme.com :D You just can't argue with some people. I gave up on him.
 

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I've wheeled everything from 31x10.50x15" BFG ATs on my '79 now parts truck to 44x18.5 Hawgs on my '78 and I've got to say 44's are incredible for most everything, but they do have a lot of practical downsides.

To start off, I don't know about too big. If Interco really comes out with a 50" TSL I might get a set, but I'd have to make sure they wouldn't hit the brake pedal on full stuff. :flipoff2:

I don't think the Michelin's are that great for a lot of stuff. The tread compound is too hard and does not grip like a TSL. Especially in places like Moab.

The main drawback to the Michelin's is the weight. They weigh over 300 lbs ea. for a 16.00R20 XL and about 250 lbs for the 48 XL - I think. I saw a post on www.USA6x6.com by Daniel that said they had broken 12 short side shafts on the Avalanche / 4WOR Super Duty Ford front Dynatrac Dana 60. The Michelin's really need Rockwells or some of the bigger portals like Station's U-1300s. Not sure how the 404's would hold up to the larger Michelins. For comparison a 44" TSL weighs 120 lbs. Also, the larger 20" wheels add even more weight to the Michelin wheel / tire combination.

I started with 31x10.50 BFG ATs on my '79 with no lift. I got stuck everywhere.

Went to 32x11.50 BFG MTs with no lift on 8" wheels and the gain was huge.

Ran some 35"BFG MTs and could tell a big difference - mainly in ground clearance and break over. Still nice to drive on street.

I ran all of this stuff on a full time D44 open front with 3.23's and never broke anything. I also had a 2 BBL 318 that wouldn't spin the 31's if I was hooked to someone that was stuck so that probably helped.

Then I got 44's. Ran them unbalanced with out shocks.

Rode like crap. Can't eat and then drive to trail or you'll get sea sick from the shaking. Top speed 55 MPH before the rear actually would hop off the ground. (Probably didn't help I had stacked 2 3 1/4" rear blocks on top of each other) :eek: Got 5.2 miles per gallon with 4.10's on the freeway on long trips - 50+miles. Girlfriend at time complains she needs to wear sports bra when riding in truck it shakes so bad.:laughing:

I think that 35's are the practical limit on D-44's with lockers. Sure you could go to Warn shafts and CTMs but why build the D-44 up. It will never be a 60.

If you ran a D-44 with Warn axles, CTMs, ARB, and hub fuses you could probably wheel forever and never break anything but the hub fuses. (Can't use fuses with a Detroit or similar). But even with all this, you still have a smaller ring gear, pinion shaft diameter, axles, U-joints, housing, knuckles, etc.

I'd say for anything bigger than a 36" tire on a fullsize, a D-60 is needed. And if you're going to run a 60 you might as well upgrade to 35 Spline outers which you'll need for the bigger tire sizes.

If you do 50/50 mud and rocks, 44's are the way to go. I could WALK over everthing I wheeled in the mud the first weekend out with my 44s, and this was with a D-44 open front and D-60 rear.

My brother had 35" BFG MTs and lockers F/R and got stuck everywhere and needed a lot of wheel speed on most stuff. Even with 38" SXs, no one could really keep up. I was immediately a huge believer in contact patch area.

I think the best all around tire is the 42x15" TSL. It gives a lot more clearance that the smaller tires, but the width is more manageable and more road efficient than the 44's.

I had some 42's for a while and I can tell you it takes alot more clearance to run the 44x18.5 because of the width when you turn.

Bottom line:

For a street driven / daily driver truck 38's. Decent gas mileage, ride, and cost. Can get by with higher gears -4.56s etc.

Not daily driven veh, but can be driven a lot - 42's best all around tire IMHO. Advantages: ground clearance, not too bad on pavement. Downsides: bad gas mileage, need strong components, need for deeper gears,cost.

Veh you mainly tow to trails: 44's if you do mud and rocks. Advantages: great ground clearance and contact patch. Downsides: Width sucks on pavement, cost substantially more than 42s, they will find the weak spots in your drivetrain, deeper gears needed.

Hope this doesn't seem like I wrote a book.

Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter #4
good feed back fella's. i like the idea of driving to the trails so it'll be 38 sx's for me, but i looked long and hard at 42's. i think also the deciding factor was my external drive hubs. i havent yet found an easy way to get 35 spline stubs in there. the shafts will fit but no hubs. with the 30 spline stubs, i'm gonna stay with 38's(plus i like the gas peadal after a few unsuccseful attempts:D ).

i see lots of fullsize guys runnin 38's on dana 44's, they just cant get bound up at all or it goes pop. i can also agree with the smaller ring gear, as i sheared of 6 teeth on the 44 i had in my jeep(in the snow:eek:).

:beer:
 

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FULLSIZE said:
......... as i sheared of 6 teeth on the 44 i had in my jeep(in the snow:eek:).

:beer:
Stop you are scaring me:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: , how many shafts did you break:D if any? I like the SX's 38x14:50's but would trade them for TSL's 39.5's, I almost bought NEW 42"s but the D44 just is not up to the task:( I would rather wheel on the trail, then repair;)
 

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p.s...............35"'s are just way to small:( a few years ago only a few ran 38's on toyotas, now I think over 50% do:eek: I couldn't imagine trying to wheel my JEEP on 35's:p :p :p , drag...scraped...stuck:flipoff2: ...winch;)
 

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On a fullsize rig with 44-type axles, 35" tires will break stuff (just assuming locked here) and if you're heavy on the throttle, break A LOT of stuff - ask me how I know. 35-spline 60's apparently hold up well to 44" boggers and big-blocks at TTC-level abuse, so that's what I'm building now. ;) I still don't know what size tires I'll be running on this thing; but likely 38 or 39.5.

FULLSIZE, you do know that Six States bought the moulds for internal-spline hubs from Spicer and is selling new ones for $175/ea? Then you can run Warn 35-spline lockouts. Those hubs on your current setup will (best I can tell) move the rotor out about 1/4" but well within the range of the caliper. However, the Dodge external-mount hubs can't be used on a GM axle (maybe not with GM rotors?) because the rotor will interfere with the caliper bracket. There was a thread on this in General about six weeks ago, but the guy who was going to provide all the detailed measurements on GM parts seemed to flake after I measured all the Dodge stuff and it became clear that what he wanted to do wouldn't work, so there's still a little confusion about exactly where the differences are - but it is clear that internal hubs on a Dodge axle isn't a problem. I was fortunate enough to find a new, unused set of 35-spline Spicer drive flanges with the special bolts and cone washers, so I'll be running those. I have one good external Selectro hub, one broken one, and two good 30-spline stub shafts; if you want them for spares, let me know before I put 'em on ebay.
 

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I run those 54" michelins from Daniel on my J-20, and with rim, they're about 400 per corner. Real tough tires.

With an auto tranny, a Dana 44 seems to hold up MUCH better to heavy wheeling than with a stick shift.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
cj5driver said:
I run those 54" michelins from Daniel on my J-20, and with rim, they're about 400 per corner. Real tough tires.

With an auto tranny, a Dana 44 seems to hold up MUCH better to heavy wheeling than with a stick shift.
400#?:eek: thats rediculous!!:flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
hey Lloyd, sign me up for those stubs and the good hub you have;) let me know how much you want for them. :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
SeaBass44 said:


Stop you are scaring me:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: , how many shafts did you break:D if any? I like the SX's 38x14:50's but would trade them for TSL's 39.5's, I almost bought NEW 42"s but the D44 just is not up to the task:( I would rather wheel on the trail, then repair;)
everytime i went out with the 44 it broke something. 2 axles, 1 297x joint, 1 hub, 1 ring gear, and the high steer arm bolts on the drivers side.:D
 

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cj5driver said:
I run those 54" michelins from Daniel on my J-20, and with rim, they're about 400 per corner. Real tough tires.

That's just sick. Just over 3/4's of a ton in wheels and tires.

On a side note, what's yours guys opinions on TSL's vs. SX's. It's probably been brought up a million times in general, but hey this is the Dodge board!!:flipoff2:
 

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FULLSIZE said:
hey Lloyd, sign me up for those stubs and the good hub you have;) let me know how much you want for them. :beer:
Sent you an email. Tell me where to send them, and I'll box 'em all up and ship 'em to you. Look 'em over and if you feel like sending me something for them, you can. They're of no use to me now, and if you need them, you're welcome to them. I wouldn't pay what ebay idiots do for this junk and don't think you should either. ;)
 

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3300 lbs in unsprung weight (axles, tires, rims) on a Jeep J-20 that weighed short of 5K originally. There's almost as much weight under the springs as there is on top! I had a pair of D-70s from a dually and was gunna run dually 44s or similar but then Daniel was contacted and I went that way instead. Anybody want to buy a front & rear set of D-70 dually axles?
 

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RE: normal TSL vs SXs,

If you run in the rocks or mud, the SX sidewall really is the stuff. But you get a 38" diameter cap in size. TSL is cheaper for equivalently sized tire it seems.
 

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take a look at the what we call "Beater Jeep II" here:




(consider I'm just shy of 6' tall)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Lloyd said:


Sent you an email. Tell me where to send them, and I'll box 'em all up and ship 'em to you. Look 'em over and if you feel like sending me something for them, you can. They're of no use to me now, and if you need them, you're welcome to them. I wouldn't pay what ebay idiots do for this junk and don't think you should either. ;)
sick Lloyd, thanks. just let me know what you think there worth, i dont wanna try to guess and insult you(remember, i'm a cheap bastard).:flipoff2:
 

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cj5driver said:
Anybody want to buy a front & rear set of D-70 dually axles?
Is the front 70 closed knuckle? Are they Dodge axles?
 
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