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Snorkel Homebrew - 3" ABS Snorkel


Intro

The area where I wheel frequently has deep water. After my friend Karl found a fish in his air box after one deep crossing (no kidding!) I decided it was high time for a snorkel. The snorkel is basically constructed from 3" flexible aluminum ducting, and 3" ABS pipe. First I removed the air cleaner box, cut off the stock "snorkel" piece at the front, riveted a piece of plastic over the opening, and sealed with high quality silicone. Then I drilled a 3" hole in the front left side of the box, and constructed a male 3" "flange" from a trimmed down 4" to 3" aluminum duct reducer, inserted from the inside of the box, riveted, and sealed with silicone. Next I cut a hole in the inside fender, opposite where the 3" male flange is, through which to pass the 3" flexible duct. To minimize the effect of chaffing I cut a piece of rubber hose equal in length to the circumference of the hole, split the hose through one side lengthwise, and fitted it over the sharp sheet metal edge, securing with silicone. The 3" flexible duct is sandwiched between the inner and outer fenders and above the plastic inner fender well liner, to where it joins the 3" ABS pipe. The 3" ABS pipe is secured to the outside of the fender with 2 small bolts, and passes through an oval hole cut in the fender.

2snorkel_1.jpg

Here's a close up of the finished product.

Note: the "top" 90* elbow is secured with 2 machine screws, and can easily be removed and an "extension" fitted for ludicrously deep crossings.

3snorkel_2.jpg

Another close-up, taken from the front.

Note: the opening faces forward but I haven't noticed any RAM effect, probably due to the convoluted path through the fender to the stock air box. On the other hand, I've noticed no decrease either. I used to have a screen fitted over the opening but discovered it was too restrictive and did nothing really.

4reducer.jpg


The 4-inch to 3-inch aluminum duct reducer used to construct the flange for the air box.

5pipepkg.jpg


The flexible aluminum duct used between snorkel and air box.

6holes.jpg

Stock "snorkel" removed and 3" hole cut in side.

7flangein.jpg

The 3" male flange from the outside.

8flangeinstall.jpg

Stock opening covered and flange being installed.

9innerhole.jpg

Hole cut in inner fender. That's the plastic fender liner visible through the hole.

I split a small piece of rubber hose and siliconed it over the sharp edge of the cut hole.

91installation.jpg

The 3" flexible duct being installed between the fenders.

Note: some modification of the plastic fender well lining was required, and the flex pipe does get squished a bit between the fenders, up near the fire wall where the inner fender flares. I didn't want to cut this part of the inner fender as it is structural, and the alternative would be to place the actual ABS snorkel too far forward on the outside of the fender (in my opinion) - so I'm living with a little squishing.

92fenderwell.jpg


Lying on the ground with head right at bottom of left front tire, looking up at an angle into the fender well, before the plastic liner was re-installed. The liner did require a little custom trimming and riveting.

93doneinside.jpg

The finished connection to the air box, under the hood.


Summary:

I have since removed the snorkel, not because it didn't work - it worked very well. But I needed to remove the air box for room for a second battery, so I converted to a homebrew cone filter setup - it's detailed elsewhere on my page.


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