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Discussion Starter #1
OK I hate my d35 in all its crappiness. I asked over at JU, and I searched, but it didn't really help. I want to run full width (65"), and I think I want to do a JY 44/ Sunray 9" combo. This is going into a 2.5L TJ, and I really would build it myself if I could weld and fab, but I'm 18, at college, and can't. If this is too newbie, go on and move it, but i'd like experienced opinions before I drop $3K.

I like the 9" for lots of reasons, except the low pinion, but I don't want to use a HP for strength reasons (unless you all really don't think that would be a problem). I'm going to run 35's, then 37's. I'm at 4.5" of lift, and will go flat skid. Is the LP too low for this?

Will a beefed 9" stand up to this, or should I save the money and pay a shop to set up a HP 60 or a 14 bolt or something. I don't want to do axles twice.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, any problems with keeping the bearings oiled? Secondly, do you run it full width, or did you have it cut down?
 

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Not sure what you mean by beefed 9". You might want to make it 35 spline & nodular center section for 37" or bigger. Depends how you treat it, 31 spline might be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yea I plan on 35 spline, not sure if I want to spend the $$ on nodular, we'll see. I just want to make sure a 9" will be enough, or if I will regret it later. I also want to make real sure a LP will not cause me grief.
 

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If you are willing to drop 3 large on a 9" I say continue to save and buy a D60. Why question the strength of a nine when you know for a little more you could have a 60.
Just my .02
:flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not selling the TJ, it's mine, I own it, completely, no payments. Plus YJs suck :flipoff2: ! I like my round headlights. Jeeprz good point, my ignorance presents itself. Quite honestly I don't know what makes a d60 stronger, maybe ignorance too.

9" R&P:
thicker
grooves cut deeper, at a bigger slant for more contact area
pinion is much bigger with more support
only slightly smaller diameter than d60 ring gear
gets stronger as gearing gets lower

also has 1.5" 31 or 35 spline axles, thick tubes, big bearings, strong nodular case, 100 lbs lighter, more clearance, ease of having a third member in repairs and gear setup

so why is a d60 better for a rear axle?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well i will eventually change the front to a 44 in order to get the gearing i want, and also be able to go hi-steer. But that will come later. Since I'm getting a custom built 9", I'll get it set up for 5x4.5 and 5x5.5
 

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mikeyhaken said:
Not selling the TJ, it's mine, I own it, completely, no payments. Plus YJs suck :flipoff2: ! I like my round headlights. Jeeprz good point, my ignorance presents itself. Quite honestly I don't know what makes a d60 stronger, maybe ignorance too.

9" R&P:
thicker
grooves cut deeper, at a bigger slant for more contact area
pinion is much bigger with more support
only slightly smaller diameter than d60 ring gear
gets stronger as gearing gets lower

also has 1.5" 31 or 35 spline axles, thick tubes, big bearings, strong nodular case, 100 lbs lighter, more clearance, ease of having a third member in repairs and gear setup

so why is a d60 better for a rear axle?
I used to think just like you and if you own it outright sell it and build a YJ up into a badass and I mean badass rig you can take on the most extreme trails. Junkyard the axles throw an Atlas in it hacksaw the shit out of it and run it. The frame is stronger and the round headlights don't make you a better wheeler. The price of putting 38"+ tires on a YJ versus a TJ are insanely different. Don't get me wrong I have a TJ and they are great but after 35" tires they suck because its so expensive to build and maintain the parts you break. And yes the Ford 9" is fine.:flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Rock Taxi. I don't think I'm going to be running tires big with a 2.5L enough to warrant a d70 or 14 bolt, I think. Plus with 35-37" tires I think I'd lose a lot of diff clearance.
 

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mikeyhaken said:
well i will eventually change the front to a 44 in order to get the gearing i want, and also be able to go hi-steer. But that will come later. Since I'm getting a custom built 9", I'll get it set up for 5x4.5 and 5x5.5
That's where I am too. I have the custon 9" in the back. I am now in the process of putting together a HP Dana 44.
 

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You guys can debate over which is better D60 or 9" all damn day and get no where.
A well built 9" will hold up to anything you throw at it up to approx. 39" tire. By well built I mean 35 spline shafts, nodular 3rd member and good locker or spool. The 9" is lighter than a D60 ever thought about being.
The 9" will be much easier to adapt to your TJ as far as axle brackets and such due to the sheetmetal housing.
Most D60's built in the aftermarket carry 1.5" 35 spline semi float shafts just like a 9" can when built right.
Most D60's built in the aftermarket run a set 20 Axle bearing just like a 9".
NO, D60's have a 3rd pinion bearing to reduce pinion defection but the 9" DOES.
I like D60's, but I dont see a Dana 60 fitting your particular application.
You can build a 9" Lighter and as strong as a D60 to fit your Jeep.
Just my 2 cents worth. Rocky
 

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I'm gonna put a 14 bolt in my DD TJ, or atleast try anways. Its only got about 5-7 more yrs as a DD till i get a tow rig or another DD. I'm a college student too. I'm with you, don't want to do axles twice, gung ho about the D60, but then got the 14bolt and its insanly cheaper to run. I'm going to cut/plate it for more clearance than a 60. It already has 4.56 gears. plannin on runnin 37s and 38.5s trust me, with a 14 bolt, you'll never need another axle. paid 61 bucks too. easy to do rear disks.

Yea its more expensive to build a TJ, but oh well, if i can find a YJ for less than 1k then i'll build it, but till then i'll stick with the TJ.

oh yea 14 bolts have a 3rd pinion bearing as well.:flipoff2:
 

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To save money, find a good used Ford 9 housing, have it clearanced and assemble it from parts. New housings from Currie set up for the large bearings aren't that expensive though. If you're confident with your fabrication skills and good at reading & following directions it shouldn't be any problem welding up your axle. Keep in mind though that you'll either need to buy new control arm brackets & coil buckets or cannibalize them from a donor axle.

If you want a Ford 9, get it and run it and if you want the HP 9, have at it. An HP 9 is more than strong enough especially if you go all out & run the 35 spline version. D60s are plenty strong but not enough stronger than the Ford 9 to justify the extra weight and cost. Yes cost- to build up a D60, unless you get a screaming deal for a second hand axle, is more expensive. The Ford 9 is also much lighter and cheaper to clearance the center section. Add to that the Currie HP diff is much stiffer and more durable and you have a winning combination.

But what if you want to run a high HP V8 and be a Throttle Monster crashing from rock to rock? Don't worry, that will destroy any axle and the D60 won't hold up much longer than a properly built Ford 9. The heavier axle will give you less suspension compliance more axle wrap both of which will place greater strain on your vehicle.

I've got a 31 spline Currie HP 9 in my Cherokee and it solves a lot of problems without creating new ones. Driveline vibes are non existent, the driveshaft doesn't hit rocks as often and it's never given me a lick of trouble on or off road in all of the years I've driven it. No, I don't run a V8 nor am I a Throttle Masher but it's been through the paces in all types of terrain. With 35 inch tires and an NV4500 it's still my daily driver- it's my ONLY driver and living here on northern Arizona it spends as much time or more offroad than on.

Stay with your TJ. The coil spring suspension is superior than leaf springs once you know how to set it up and tune it, for a hard core rig that you'll be driving everyday. It's the best out of the box SWB Jeep ever made.

However, since your TJ has only a 4 banger in it, do you really need more than just steeper gears and a set of lockers? That might actually be the most cost efficient way to go for now. That being said, I do remember that I destroyed my D35 running 30 inch tires. Maybe for now just replace the rear axle once the D35 wears out or simply dies
 
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