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Discussion Starter #1


2005 LJ, 60's f/r, Atlas, full hydro, 42"s. Heavy bitch!! 4900lbs. Bought new, wheeled stock, 33" X-Terrains, 35" Mud Kings, 37" SSR's, 38" TSL's, 38.5" SX's, 39" IROK's, 40" MTR's, and now 42" IROK's.



Something fell off. It was worth money to someone!! TJ to LJ conversion.



Trying to seal it off, keep heat and A/C in for the wife, and the snakes in the Clayton creeks out.



Starting to take shape.



Roll the axle back under to get a look and have a beer break.







And where we sit today. So far about 8 weekends and a few evenings after work. We are at 110" wheelbase, 21.5" to bottom of frame, and 76" to top of windshield with 4" of shaft showing. I still have brakelines, limit straps, bumpstops, rear skins, cargo basket, removable tire carrier, and to properly address fuel lines. The rear lowers are the same length as the fronts so future plans are to 3 link front and have all matching lower arms. I ditch the tube fenders and hood for a lexan, shed a little more weight. I hope to hit the scales again next week once I get the brakes finished. Loading on and off a trailer without brakes isn't fun or safe.
 

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I like it! Where in Texas are you? Id like to see this rig in person.
 

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I'm in Allen, North of Dallas. Others have said the same thing about cutting up an LJ. When we first bought it we did several driving trips to Colorado for our summer vacation. We used the extra carrying capacity and even slept in it in several trips but as it grew and we started playing a little harder in it, it just had to evolve into what we are doing now. I did feel bad about cutting it, even tried to sell or trade for something else but nothing ever panned out. The first cut was the hardest. I marked the tub, got everthing prepped and ready, and just stood there, had another beer, decided I better start cutting before I have too many beers. I'm pleased with how it has turned out so far, can't wait to get the detail work done.
 

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that is looking really good
i like the way you closed in the rear
ben
 

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Discussion Starter #6




We started out at 4900lbs. Now we sit at 4140lbs. I still have to put the skins on the back and build a light tray to hold the cooler and tools. Once I wheel it and see how she works, next will be to boatside and loose the windshield frame and glass. I'll just build simple frame to hold some lexan and still seal up around the doors and attach the bikini too.
 

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Discussion Starter #7








This pick is the mock up, I finished it out just like that last night but was too dark to take a pic. The aluminum is .120" 5032, 48 dimples. The skins are .090" polycarbonate. they will be painted on the inside like an RC car in matching white. I think I am going to mount another ice chest on the other side of the fuel cell for a little more capacity. So far with additions and subtractions we are about 800lbs lighter than when I started. Once I get these wheels sold I will switch to aluminum, I have tube doors, and I might pull the windshield glass for something lighter. I had hoped to loose a total of 1000lbs and I might actually make it. I can already feel the difference. The majority of my weight was lost in the rear, before I couldn't spin those tires on pavement without being pretty abusive, now it is super easy. I have the 6sp manual and have always been caught between 1st and 2nd gear leaving a stoplight. 1st was so short that it felt like I was shifting in my on length, 2nd took a little clutch slipping but not bad if the light was on level ground. Now 2nd gear is as low as I will ever need on the street and I can chirp the tires easy at every light. We hope to take it out over the Christmas holidays for a trial run, then Clayton a couple times to work out any bugs, I'm sure some rear shock tuning will be in order. Then she will be ready for Moab EJS for a good 7 days of wheeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Front was pushed forward 4", sitting at 108" wb now. I did cut the fenders off the hood, made some simple hil-ine fenders, tops and sides have the polycarb skins. I have all the skins painted, still have to add a little structure to the hood near the cowl area to keep it from flapping around. It's kind of funny, I have to build the Jeep to sustain speeds of 70 to 80 mph for long periods of time, while it sits on the trailer on the way to the trails. Then I can spend long periods of time at 2mph.
 

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If you don't mind when you get a chance could you get a better pic of the set up. I'm wanting to ditch my Trent fab hi lines for a lighter setup.
 

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When you run a clear hood like that should you do like a clear vinyl wrap or something to protect it from cloudville? I just think those hoods are tits and don't want to see it all scratched up.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No clear. Everthing is or will be painted white on the backside. The goal was to keep the look without the weight. I'll try to remember to get some better pics of the fenders. I have no inner fender, everthing has been relocated. I will come back in make some more clear panels to simulate an inner but really just to keep mud and water from flying directly on the computer, battery, and such. I bought a 4x8 sheet of clear, cut out all the body parts and now will work with what I have left. Those side panels were 70" long, I have some large, odd shaped scrap to work with.
 

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Hey kevin its cody with the blue J20. I saw tj back half and jeepkevin and just had to click on it just to see if it was you! your jeep looks great!
 

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Man that's sharp. I really like the flared hole aluminum rear cargo area.
Gives me an idea of something to put those expensive dust collecting dies to use on.
 

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Definitely digging it, I have the same Jeep just with alot more sheetmetal left than yours for the time being. I like it, and will probably doing something real similar soon. Good luck, and let us know how it works for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have the skins painted and hung on one side, hope to do the other side tonight. I think I'll sneek the hood up to work tomarrow and paint it in the back room on my lunch break. It should be dry enough to work with that night. I have been in RC cars for years and my first thought was to use the lexan specific RC car paint. I tested on some scraps and the color was a very bright white where as the Jeep was more of a creamy white. I bought a can of the Duplicolor sparay in the matching PW1 color code, tested that on some scrap, closer but not perfect. Oh well, that is what I ended up using. I was concerned it would not hold up, and time will tell on that, but a couple of phone calls to a couple of local body shops led me to believe that modern paints on cars are somewhat flexable due to thiner body panels and more plastic bumpers nowdays. I beat up my test pieces and was impressed with how well it held up. You bet I'll be in Clayton soon!! It's been since Memorial that I've wheeled Clayton, wife and I had a great 4 days. I still have to integrate the evap stuff somewhere. I can't find or figure out how to delete it and not have a check engine light on so I will work with it. The last hurdle is the belly skid. I already built a t-case mount to the insides of the frame. That leaves me the original 6 skid mounting bolts as a base to work with. I hope to go the UHMW route but might just go with a high series aluminum simply because it is readily available. I'll post more pics tomarrow. I get a couple of hours each night and all day Sunday, so this project has taken me several months but now we are getting really close.
 
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