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Discussion Starter #1
I've been searchin my ass off with no luck!
Who da hell has a link or links for TJ 60's?
I've got a 91 & a 79 HP60 (ford)
It's my understanding maybe the 91 only needs
the long side cut down? (FRT)
I have no brackets yet which I will buy from ?
I'd like to keep the rear near stock width
and the frt 2-3in wider.
Lets foreget the rear, it's not a problem!
The thing is gettin the frt shaft lined up
and the correct width with the fat ass pumkin
and brackets.
I'm pulling the axles today so I havent really
had the chance to do any real measuring.
I've done more than a few axle swaps in TJ's (rear)
but never had to cut an axle or delt with 60's.
I live in rual area and my dial up connection
is way slow which also makes searchin a pita!
I got a buddy who has cut several tubes so he's got
the jig to get the tubes lined up correctly.
The thing is he's never done a TJ either. (YJ'60's)
Help me out guys!
GWT
 

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Yeah, this swap is a blast..

I'm in the middle of doing the same swap. I have a HP60 out of an 89 F350 SRW, and a Tera 60R housing for the rear. Here is what i've done. The 78 and 79's short side(left of the pumpkin)are 6in. On the later models, like mine 89, they are 3. You think it's a pain the ass to fit the brack on the 6in? Try 3. With the later model, all you have to cut is the long side, I'm running mine 62 3/4, but with the 78/79 the short side will probally have to be cut. Stock TJ width is 60". I'm also running the front wider, and the rear stock so it'll turn a bit better. Rubicon Express sells TJ braket kits for both the front and rear. They are pround of them, around 400 front, 300 rear. You can also buy the brackets individually. Set up the front by making a jig from the 30. I've seen a guy just lay the arms up on the housing and weld the brackets on from there. I imagine you're using a RE long arm kit? The front kit comes with a piece that goes over the entire top of the pumpkin, then you put the driver side upper mount on top of that. I'm ganna just weld it to the housing.

Maybe that'll help. If you need any more info and run into any problems let me know. I'm ganna start setting up the brackets this coming Fri.

[email protected]

-Colby
 

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The RE brackets are not made for a 60 and require some fab work to get them to fit right. Also the size of the pumpkin makes placing the drivers side coil bucket a pain.

DC's 4x4 can get you the brackets for about 100 cheaper then list above. 540-890-3335 That is where I got my brackets.
 

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I know, the RE brackets are universal. The damn driver side spring plate is going to be a pain in the ass with this 3" tube.

Never heard of the place you got your, brackets. They have a website?

What are you running in the front? Junkyard, Dynatrac..?

-Colby
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the info men, keep it comming!
I know the RE brackets need work to fit.
I've got some sick ideas for makings my own
or some of them?
I'm early into this but want to get going now that
that axles are out.
I think my main hang up is the left side control
arm mount & spring pad along with the drive shaft
being straight?
Is the pumkin gonna be off set with the 60?
Seeing how I have my choice of which axle to
use up front, which is the best choice 79 or 91?
I've heard somewhere that one of them is the
perfect lenght on the left side stock?
GWT
 

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Discussion Starter #8
By the way I've been running a RockKrawler
long arm up grade kit.
By the time this is complete I think the arms will
be a bit shorter,
I'd like to move the control arm brackets up also.
What about welding to the pumkin, is a mig with
a 25/75 mix ok for this?
GWT
 

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I'm using a '79 HP Ford cut 4" off each side in front of my TJ project for a 61" WMS.
Moved the 4.3L V-6 over toward the passenger side 1" and figger there's enough room left for the coil spring on the driver's side.
Going with a 3-link in front with the single top link bar going from the passenger side inner frame rail slanting towards a twisted tower mid axel.
Before axel cut down ...

Third link tower basic ...

I'll post pics in about 10 days to show how it goes when we mount 35" Krawlers on a 4.5 BS Allied rim and do the articulation mechanicals...
 

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Why do you need a 60 for 35s??? WHy don't you run some 37s or something to get some clearance¿
 

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Why not run the at FULL WIDTH AS IS? I'm running a front full width HP 44 and 60 rear on my TJ. Cutting the axle down will also require custom axle shafts, so don't be surprised by the cost.

Biggest issue with brackets is the RE kit will need some custom grinding work. The driverside cast spring perch isn't that big of a deal as many would make it. A little work with a grinder and a stick welder will do the work.

RE Brackets from either:
DC's 4x4 (email: [email protected] ) (near Roanoke VA)
or
Bobby G (email: [email protected]) (Ottawa, ON)

Both drop ship so location shouldn't matter much.

Lining up the pinion yoke with the driveshaft, should be a moot issue too. My rear differed about 2" from the stock location, but it's still straight enough that the ujoint doesn't bind (no vibes front or rear). I didn't bother exact measurements on the front, it looked close enough when I had both axles pulled.


PS
You didn't search very well, I can come up with only a couple thousand 60 topics. :flipoff2: Newbie.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My 35's are history, 37's on the way!
I'm also setting the pace for a small block in the
future.
And to tell you the truth I'm tired of tip-toein
on the friggin rocks which is what I do.
I've got a gas pedal I'd like to use :flipoff2:
We all know it takes long cash to do these axles up right!
I have no plans to kick myself in the ass because
I missed or over looked something setting them up.
I cut,grind,weld on Jeeps every weekend just like
most of us here, but I'm no axle builder as of yet :D
Yeah maybe 60 topics of 60's now you think if I
found my answers in those I'd be
asking again.
I might add that I'm a total ass when it comes to perfection,
we all have our falts :flipoff2:

Back to the few things that have me thinkin is
the left side spring pad and lower control arm bracket
will sit on the cast in spring perch in order
to keep the drive shaft straight?
I'm a little flexable on width 62-64?
Is it a normal thing to do, to widein the control
arm brackets a bit in order to avoid the stock spring perch?
GWT
 

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AzoBlue said:
where can yew find a HP60 rear, which vehicles? and yes ive seached.:flipoff2:
I hope you are kidding.


GWT,

65" is as narrow as you can go on a 60 front with stock brackets. Rubicon Express is the place to get them.
 

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GWT said:


Back to the few things that have me thinkin is
the left side spring pad and lower control arm bracket
will sit on the cast in spring perch in order
to keep the drive shaft straight?
I'm a little flexable on width 62-64?
Is it a normal thing to do, to widein the control
arm brackets a bit in order to avoid the stock spring perch?
GWT
Man, it sounds like you are in way over your head. You can't just "hodgepodge" put a bracket here and there. You need a jig if you want it to come out worth a crap. Get someone that knows what they are doing to at least set up the brackets...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you for that tid bit of knowledge Sheepdog.
 

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84 Sheepdog said:


Man, it sounds like you are in way over your head. You can't just "hodgepodge" put a bracket here and there. You need a jig if you want it to come out worth a crap. Get someone that knows what they are doing to at least set up the brackets...
You don't NEED a jig. :rolleyes: Just set it under the jeep...that's how most do it.
 

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Jason R said:


You don't NEED a jig. :rolleyes: Just set it under the jeep...that's how most do it.
You just set it under the jeep... and then what? Use angle finder and measure off the old housing? I've heard that before and also heard of problems with it lining up correctly. At $400 a pop for a set of brackets, I would prefer to have them set up on a jig than have to cut them off and do it again when they don't line up right. I'm talking about using the stock style tj brackets, not a 4-link or leaf spring setup.


And here's another tidbit newbie. In case you decide to build a jig. JIG
 

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Why spend the $400 bucks for pre-made brackets? I made my own brackets and longarms oni my ZJ, and they work great. Get some 3/16" or 1/4 mild-steel bar, and you're all set.
 

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I know many, many people who have not used a Jig on TJ/XJ front ends. If you can't do it then you are incompetent. I can get the RE brackets for free...and you can still make your own, it's not that difficult. :rolleyes:
 
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