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Discussion Starter #1
I am putting a pair of dana 60 axles into my TJ taken from a 79 Ford F250 Custom, I have two questions for those who have done this swap before.

1) For the front, I plan on running it 65" WMS-WMS, and I will shorten only the passenger side by 4.5", so I will have pass. side inner at 30" and driver inner at 18" approx. My only concern here, is clearance between the exhaust and front DS. Can anybody provide some measurements from their set up, thanks.

2) For the rear, I know that I need to cut the spindles and bore them out to 1.55" to have the 35 splines shaft fit in it. I will shorten the rear to 63" WMS-WMS. I have read many and many posts about this swap by SEARCHING first, and I was wondering if anybody have built a home made jig in order to weld the spindle back on straight. Is there a way to do this without having to spend 200$ on a jig or bringing the whole axle to a machine shop?

Thanks, and oh, by the way, I know this is my first post, so FLAME ME ALL YOU WANT...:flipoff2:
 

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why are you running different width axles ? any specific reason?
 

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why are you running different width axles ? any specific reason?
Narrower rear helps with tracking/steering. The rear will more easily follow the front if it is a little narrower.
 

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What measurements do you need for the front? Mine is 65" too. Steve Gerstner built it but I could probably give you bracket/knuckle to pumpkin measurements, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
XJ wit an LT1 said:
why are you running different width axles ? any specific reason?
The Jeep will track better and will have a tighter turning radius with the rear narrower.

84 Sheepdog said:
What measurements do you need for the front?
The front inner shafts. I just need to know if cutting 4.5 inches of the passenger side of a 79 Ford HP 60 will clear the driveshaft from the exhaust. Thanks.
 

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I am using a HP60 out of a 90 F350. Only difference between the 78-79 and 88?-91.5 is 3" of tube on the driver side instead of 6". I had 3" cut off of the passenger side and run it at 66.5" WMS to WMS.
 

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I think cutting 4.5" off the pass side should work. I am not positive though. Look up LUVMYTJ on the PBB. He cut the same axle down for the front of his TJ to I believe 63" (6.5" off pass side and it JUST cleared) I would pm him to be sure though.

I also had Steve Gerstner build my front axle. Top notch work and good prices. Here are a couple pics. Sorry for the link.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/106947202/106989429ihfXBE

http://community.webshots.com/photo/106947202/106989521CDckLq

http://community.webshots.com/photo/106947202/106947857pjRSMc
 

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look out you will have problems. If you have auto even worse.

Been there done that. I went with the newer ford 6o kingpin since the pumpkin is over drivers side more. and I still hit the deep tranny pan. at max flex. Made my axle 65 inches. sorry hope you make it work.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
J.Hard

Thanks for the tip. I just read LUVMYTJ's post about his front hp60 and his pass. inner measures 28.6", but the DS is pretty damn close to the exhaust. But I think he also cut the driver side. Arghhh....I might just cut the passenger side by 3.5" just to be safe. I just do want to fawk it up :mad:

tjmark

I am running a standard, but who knows in the future what I will run.

Anybody else, or anybody want to answer my second question about the rear 60. Mucho gracias.
 

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Just a thought...
As compared to my axle with 3" of tube on the driver side, yours has 6" of tube on the driver side. Both axles come stock at approximately 69.5" WMS to WMS. I had 3" cut off the pass side and it was cut as wide as you can make this D60 work in a TJ...SOOOO, why don't you just run it full width since you alrerady have 3 more inches on the driver side already. I would think it would line up fine. You want it narrower, just run hummer rims. 16.5x8.25 with 7" of BS stock. I understand there are a few steering arm issues to deal with but it would save you some money and time in the long run. Does this make sense:confused: :D

Outside of being too wide for some peoples tastes...is there any reason that a 78-79 D60 would not line up in a TJ w/o being shortened?
 

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Mine is only narrowed on the long(passenger) side. I don't have any problems hitting the transmission pan or exhaust. (It's a 4.0 with 4 spd. automatic.)
 

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sheepdog what year 60 and what is your wms to wms? stock transfer case?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
J. Hard said:
Just a thought...
As compared to my axle with 3" of tube on the driver side, yours has 6" of tube on the driver side. Both axles come stock at approximately 69.5" WMS to WMS. I had 3" cut off the pass side and it was cut as wide as you can make this D60 work in a TJ...SOOOO, why don't you just run it full width since you alrerady have 3 more inches on the driver side already. I would think it would line up fine. You want it narrower, just run hummer rims. 16.5x8.25 with 7" of BS stock. I understand there are a few steering arm issues to deal with but it would save you some money and time in the long run. Does this make sense:confused: :D

Outside of being too wide for some peoples tastes...is there any reason that a 78-79 D60 would not line up in a TJ w/o being shortened?
I don't like hummer rims because they make the hubs stick out and I run lots of narrow trails, don't want to smash them into trees and rocks. Also, I want my jeep to still be street legal, and cops can't be a biatch about this if your tires stick out far. Anyway, I plan on running 16.5x9.75 rims with 5" backspacing. I am in no rush in building the 60s, I just want to do them right and for once be happy with the axles I got :D
 

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I don't know much about TJ's, but is it hard/possible to reroute the exhaust? I guess maybe if it were that easy you wouldn't be asking. Good luck.
 

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Meyer said:
I don't know much about TJ's, but is it hard/possible to reroute the exhaust? I guess maybe if it were that easy you wouldn't be asking. Good luck.
You can go with an aftermarket exhaust, but then you develop clearance issues with other things like the skidplate.

I've heard more complaints than praises about TJ headers and aftermarket exhausts.
 

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Just take the rear axle to a machine shop and have them cut it down. I have my own jig to narrow axles and it cost me over $200 for the tooling alone, so it would make more sense financially to just pay once and be done with it.

BTW: cut down 60's make the Jeep drive BETWEEN the fenders of the trailer, instead of OVER.
 

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For the rear axle why not just run a 14 bolt with the C&C hubs, they are ~63" wms already. It would be cheaper than custom shafts, and machining your stock spindles.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
jeepboyben said:
For the rear axle why not just run a 14 bolt with the C&C hubs, they are ~63" wms already. It would be cheaper than custom shafts, and machining your stock spindles.
The only thing about the C&C 14 bolt is that there is no selectable lockers to use with it. I love my current ARBs and I would like to run ARBs also on both new axles. Anybody know why ARB doesn't produce a locker for the 14 bolt?

Most likely machine shops where I live have never shortened any axles before, I am afraid they are going to screw up, but if it has to come this, than, I will just bite the bullet and hold my breath while my rear 60 is being shortened.
 

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Where is "your area" at? Maybe you could search around the board for a shop nearby that would do it, who has done them before.
 

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yep... my exaust is beat to shit... Im running a HP 60 at 65 inchs WMS to WMS ... even with 6 inches of lift... I am doing a motor lift to help DS angles ect..

Mike-
 
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