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Discussion Starter #1
So I was decided to install a hand throttle on my jeep. I researched different the types guys were installing. I decide to go with this:

I am going to use:

bike brake handle (Already had it in laying around)
bike brake cable with jacket 6 foot comes with ends(local bike shop 6$)
bike brake adjuster (local bike shop 1$)
throttle cable clamp (ACE hardware $1.80)
(2) 6mm - 1, lock nuts for brake adjuster (ACE Hardware 12 cents each)
Black tie wraps
1 inch piece of 1/2 inch copper water pipe (just what i had)
1 inch piece of 3/4 inch pvc conduit (just what i had)
electrical tape
1/4 nylon insert (ACE Hardware .33 cent)


To get started first thing I did was cut a relief joint in the pieces of pipe, I put them in a vise and use a cut off wheel to cut a 1/8 inch gap in each of them. This will allow you to install them on the shifter shaft with ease and allow for a tight fit when you tighten it all up, After cutting the pipe I marked where the shifter knob stops on my shift with a marker, and removed the knob. Then installed the copper pipe first just below the line I marked, you will have to tapped the copper pipe down the shaft with screw driver due to a snug fit. Then install the pvc piece over the copper pipe. Then I installed the bike brake handle on the shifter over the pieces of pipe using them as spacers for the mounting bracket on the handle. I choose to use a brake handle, You could also use a bike derailer handle. I did not like how the derailer didn't spring back when released (I am sure there is a mod for that, but I liked the brake handle) The brake handle fit my needs well (free). If you use a derailer be sure to get cable for a derailer and not bike brake cable. When installing the brake handle it will have to be set to the side due to hitting the dash when the shifter is in 1st. After I positioned it I tighted it up and used the electrical tape to clean up any pipe the was showing.

Now I started routing my cable jacket (insert the inner cable once the jacket is ran it is a ton easier), I ran mine down between the shifter and the boot and under the console to the dash (be sure not to kink the cable jacket). Then I removed to two screws holding the dash trim piece on under the steering wheel. Then removed the metal dash piece under that by removing the four screws holding it in. Now you will need to locate two 1/4 inch holes to the right side of the steering column (I used the hole on the left), This is where I installed the brake cable adjuster using the 6 mm nuts, the adjuster comes with one nut I replaced it with the 6mm due to the larger size. once you have that installed you can gage where to cut off your cable jacket. I went ahead tie wrapped it back before inserting the inner cable. I tie wrapped mine low on the shift so I could cover the tie wraps with the shifter boot. When you get your cable ask for stainless steel cable. Now you need to drill a hole in the gas pedal just below where the factory cable is attached. Drill a small hole first then step up to the 1/4 inch bit. Once you have the 1/4 inch hole you can insert the 1/4 inch nylon insert you will need to secure this with some glue of some sort, I used JB Weld. Carefully glue it as to not get glue in the small hole in the center of the insert of on the factory cable. Let the glue dry well. Then I inserted my inner cable, this should slide in to the jacket easy. Once the inner cable is in I ran it though the nylon insert in the peddle, I ran it about 2 inchs past the back of peddle and cut it off. Now you will need to slip the throttle clamp on the cable behind the peddle, I slid mine up to the rear of the peddle take care not to have the peddle pressed. Get it close and you can tighten it with the adjustment on the handle and cable adjuster. I used a stubby screw driver and needle nose vise grips to tighten the set screw in the throttle clamp also called a stop. Once adjusted to what I felt was snug. I tested it, Seemed to function good, Did a crank test and It was to tight causing it to idle very after adjusting it out some it works great. I get over 3/4 throttle which is more than what I need. I choose to tie to the gas peddle as apposed to throttle body due to binding issues in the cable. By tie into the peddle there is no way I see it can bind and be a problem. I have less the 10 dollars and about an hour of work in this.

I hope this helps anyone looking to due the same. Thanks in advance for any input good or bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Nice work I've only given this mod a little thought and never considered going to the pedal, or using a brake handle for the control. Good job
Thanks,

I got the idea to goto the peddle from a 66 bronco a friend has, It has a throttle on the dash (looks like a choke), it is connected to the peddle also.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is there a way to "lock" the throttle at a higher position, like when you use the derailer?
I can adjust to get a higher idle, but no it doesn't lock, I was concerned with the derailer that the throttle would lock at the wrong time, That's just me I liked that handle springs back
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I use mine to bump the rpm's while winching more than any other reason.

Thats probably why he has one in the auto.

I like the look of that, but wouldn't work well for my usage.

Nice idea though.
I don't have a winch, but that makes sense now, When I get a winch I am sure I will look in to a system to lock it.
 

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Why on an auto? just wondering?
Cruise control on the trail :smokin:. It keeps me from jacking my foot on the pedal when going over long, rocky stretches. I don't need the throttle up when winching as I have a high output alternator and dual batteries. The shimano shift lever does have an adjustable friction device so you can set the lever to stay where you put it...
 
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