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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know how wide of an axle you would need to do this without doing anything else but making a shock hoop and a mount on the axle?

I have been trying to figure a way to get longer travel shocks in the rear without going below the axle. There is a TJ in the November issue of 4WD & SUV mag on top of page 20 that has this done and it looks good to me.

Has anyone else done this? How?
 

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By moving the shock further out on the axle you effectivly need a longer shock to get the same amount of articulation. you can get more travel out of a shorter shock by moving the mounts in at the axle and/or at the upper mount. Also by angling the shock you can get more travel out of a shorter shock
 

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NERokToy's right.

Keep the shocks where they are at. Move the upper mount up and into the tub if necessary. By going into the tub by only 1/2", I was able to fit RS9005's which have a 17.25" compressed length.

If you have a 1" body lift, you can move the rear x-member/shock mount up by 1 - 1.25" and mount dual eyelet shocks in back with the upper eyelet on TOP of the shock mount using a standard BPE.

cm "got nook nook" k
 

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Originally posted by cmk:
[QB]
If you have a 1" body lift, you can move the rear x-member/shock mount up by 1 - 1.25" and mount dual eyelet shocks in back with the upper eyelet on TOP of the shock mount using a standard BPE.
/QB]
I've thought about this, but how did you get the BPE/top eyelet in in there??? Did you cut holes in the tub to access that spot from the top?
 

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Originally posted by NE-RokToy:
<STRONG>By moving the shock further out on the axle you effectivly need a longer shock to get the same amount of articulation. you can get more travel out of a shorter shock by moving the mounts in at the axle and/or at the upper mount. Also by angling the shock you can get more travel out of a shorter shock</STRONG>
Your right you would lose some shock travel.
BUT if you laid the shock forward or backward I'd guess you could get more than enough travel out of it, you would just have to use a stiffer shock to allow for the levarge so that it wasn't too soft.
I have been tinkering with this idea for a long time. I came up with the idea of building a crossmember then mounting the shock in front of the axle. The crossmember would go from inside the frame rails.
Seems mounting ouside the frame would be a whole lot eaiser though.
 

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This is my friends 4 runner, and how he made room for the 9012's in the rear. Seems like you could do something similiar on the rear of a TJ.
 

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Originally posted by Rifraf:
<STRONG>I've thought about this, but how did you get the BPE/top eyelet in in there??? Did you cut holes in the tub to access that spot from the top?</STRONG>
Yulp.



cm "exhaust fumes, they do a body good" k
 

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KennyB, that would be pretty hard to do in a TJ. I've been trying to figure out how I am going to do my top shock mounts for a few weeks now and there's not much room back there. The gas tank, control arms (which the FJ doesn't have) track bar (again, not on FJ) and all that stuff gets in the way of moving around the top shock mounts. <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This is the Jeep I was looking at.



It seems to me this would work good. You wouldn't need stiffer shocks due to the lever force on the shock at an angle. BTW - I have moved both rear crossmembers up 2", so I have more room than normal. I was just thinking this would be a cleaner installation and work better.

Also, the shock mounting should be rotated 90 degrees from stock. This would be less binding and give better articulation.

[ 11-02-2001: Message edited by: orbitcat ]
 
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