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Discussion Starter #1
I searched a bit, and didn't find a thread on this...

Is it worthwhile to have a thread detailing how we deal (remove/ replace) with the front frame rails to get better uptravel?

I'm dealing with this on my YJ right now (front 3Link, panhard, coilovers, etc) and I have a good idea of what I'm going to do, but was looking for others examples.

I'll post my version in the coming days after the material gets here.

Here's my front axle:




Not too much going on there... :laughing:
 

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How far forward are you pushing the axle? I just cut the frame at the motor mounts and tubed the rest out. But my limiting factor was the axle tube getting into the crank pully at bump. But I'm only at 108"wb. Looks like with that steering setup. Your going to have to push it pretty far forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good question.

I don't know at the moment (at work, jeeps at home) but it's at least 5".

I just realized the assist cylinder won't work in the location as shown in my pic above, so ignore that.

Also, and perhaps I should have been more clear in this, I'm retaining a steering box; so that's another complexity to consider.
 

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How far forward are you pushing the axle? I just cut the frame at the motor mounts and tubed the rest out. But my limiting factor was the axle tube getting into the crank pully at bump. But I'm only at 108"wb. Looks like with that steering setup. Your going to have to push it pretty far forward.
i have the same issue, you can raise frame rails but the limiting factor is most of the time harmonic damper pulley on the way, i would suggest to place the engine as close as you can to the firewall and maybe move it to the side a bit just the get enough clearance, my Jeep is about 99" wheelbase and bumper protrudes roughly 3", to put the diff case out of the engine pulley i would probably stretch the wheelbase 15" more wich is too much i guess.
 

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With about 5" front stretch on mine, the truss gets into the crank pulley. Mine is low(only about 4" lift at ride height) with 1" MML and I had to notch the truss to clear the crank pulley at full bump. The axle would probably have to go another 2.5-3" forward to clear. Even without the truss(which sits a good 5" above the axle tube at the point of interference) I wouldn't have gained anything, because everything else starts interfering at right around the same point. I've got around 5" uptravel and would have had to change damn near everything in order to get more. As it is, had to notch my already raised frame and swap to a shorter, wider radiator to keep the panhard and steering from interfering. This is all with a 4.0L. With a V8 you could probably push it back far enough to clear the crank pulley at full bump with 5" front stretch.
 

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No cut frame here, it's all stock. We got it as low as possible with 3" of up travel. 111" wheelbase.

We had to put an electric fan on it, remove the stock fan shroud, and rake the grille back. Front truss is in front of the crank pully. The truss will hit the frame before it hits the motor.

Your steering set up would not work on my set up. I think you're going to have a hard time making that work.





 

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Your steering set up would not work on my set up. I think you're going to have a hard time making that work.
I agree. I've BTDT and it will be nearly impossible to get any decent uptravel at any decent ride height with that tie rod all the way up there. Put it down in front in the factory holes, or space it up a bit with weld-on brackets like my knuckles are.

I cut mine off right here. Sorry no measurements or better pictures, this was a long time ago.



 

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I think you are going to have a hard a time fitting high steer and keeping a low COG with a steering box whether your tie rod is in front or back.


My axle is sitting in front of the engine so I am OK there, my limiting factor is the pitman arm contacting the tie rod. You can see that I had initially planned to run high steer but it didn't work out for me.
 

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I've been trying to figure out how to get more up travel out of my front suspension for a while now.

Like others I cut the frame off a few inches in front of the motor mounts.

My suspension is limited by the crank pulley, fan, and radiator (cj7).

So far, the only ideas I have come up with is to ditch the highsteer (which I don't want to do). Or move the engine and radiator back...

I'll be following this one for ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, I took some pics and measured my approximate front stretch:

I have the front axle moved forward about 6-7".

These pics are about an inch shy of full bump:

Driver's side:




Passenger's side:



Passenger's side looking rearward to upper link (shows clearance at full bump):




My current plan is to cut the frame off just in front of the motor mounts, then add a piece of 2x5 rectangular steel with notches for the steering links at full bump.

I MIGHT mess around with re-drilling the highsteer arms to have the linkage mount from the bottom. In theory, that would actually allow me to run everything as I have it now, but I'm not 100% on fitment.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Talk to Mac at C&M performance machine, he makes nice front frame kits! Just say'n.
I was VERY interested in his stuff, but his kits don't offer a steering box mount, and retrofitting one to his is sort of two steps forward, three back.

Also, I just searched his stuff, and he's closed his shop as of January. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I wish I could sneak it through inspection, but for now, it's not.

I prefer to keep this streetable here in PA, and even with my "Connections" that won't fly.

Plus, I already have the PSC box/ assist kit.

Besides, why make is easy when you can mindfuck the hell out of it... :laughing:
 

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I was VERY interested in his stuff, but his kits don't offer a steering box mount, and retrofitting one to his is sort of two steps forward, three back.

Also, I just searched his stuff, and he's closed his shop as of January. :(
I had the same issue but dug the kit. I just fabbed up my own front end and it seems to be ok. There is a lot of info on here so you'll get it figured out! Good luck!
 

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I cut my CJ frame pretty much the same spot everyone else here has. I also ran my tie rod in the stock location on the knuckles and never had an issue. Toss those TRE's on upside down like you're thinking and go from there.

Once I pulled my axles out of my cj to put in my buggy, I just put on 1 high steer arm for my ram relocation and kept the tie rod stock. I don't drive like an idiot bashing shit with the front of my rig so it's never been an issue.
 

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I cut the front end off my last Jeep and tubed it out.





Turned out nice. Never really had problems getting the new tube work up and over obstacles.

 
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