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Discussion Starter #1
On a vehicle that might need to have the front end torn apart frequently, are there any compelling reasons NOT to stud the swivel ball and drive flanges?

W/R/T the swivels, it might be of help on reassembly...

Comments?

Slade, your input? You have done this, haven't you?

In the unlikely event anyone cares, swivel seals really can be replaced without tearing the entire hub down... And, yes, it is MUCH faster.

Peace,
PT
 

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Studs...hmmm here's my input.

I have only done the rear Sals. axle. I do like the studs because they bottom out on the hub and they look kind of cute with the Maxi-Drive axles/flanges.

The only thing I don't like about them is that it is difficult to remove the axle flange. I used to be able to whack it hard with a rubber mallet and spin the axle off of the hub, now that is not possible. I have to use a very thin screwdriver and pick a spot to be 'sacrificial' if I want to remove the axle.

On swivels, I haven't done it.

I have the ratchet box-end wrenches (gearwrench) for doing the swivel balls. If you are tearing down swivels constantly and don't have a 9/16ths 12-point gearwrench you are wasting hours doing it with a regular 12-point wrench.

IIRC part of getting the swivel ball off is either pulling it up or pushing it down or side to side when the bolts are out to break the seal. With studs you have to pull it perfectly straight out and have no wiggle room side-to-side.

IMO I wouldn't do swivels, but I like the studs on the drive flanges/hubs.

Get the gearwrench if you want to pull swivels off fast...trust me.

Oh and what's an axle seal? I just use gasket-eliminator, have been for years with no problems. It'll save you a few bucks and you won't have to worry about not having the right gasket.

That's all.
 

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Michael, I have to agree with you about the gearwrenches. I have both of the double box sets and they are great!

As for the studs, it might be nice to have two or three on the swivel housing, and use bolts for the rest. That would make it much easier to put the whole assmbly back on the axle tube (Its damn heavy with the cv, axle, hub and rotor on there). Having some studs to hang it on would make it a breeze to put back, without making it a huge pain in the ass to remove.
 

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You know, that's true.

If you had one stud, say the top one (or the bottom one that's centered), you could use it as an indexing peg for getting the swivel on.

That's a pretty good idea, I might have to look into it.

Do you know what size the bolts are off hand? I can find one tomorrow super easy and will be swinging by the 'bolt store' to see if they have them.

I had the original Gearwrenches, the ones that were straight and you had to flip to reverse direction. Now those are a pain if you're removing the swivel. You can get the bolt out just so far before the wrench bottoms out against the swivel, and you can't reverse the wrench because you can't flip it over.

I had to do several bolts the 'old fashioned' way when I got my gear wrench stuck in there one time.

The second set I just bought from Home Depot. I think that they're rebranded Gearwrenches because they're the exact same thing except the head is angled and there's a switch to reverse directions.

I thought they would be frivolous tools, but they are my favorite wrenches right now (and have been for a LONG time).

I did take Ben's suggestion and got a 9/16th's wobbly head socket from Snap-On for Christmas.

My wife even went to the Snap-On truck with me to buy it. She called it a 'cultural experience'. True to form the Snap-On Guy was sporting a handlebar and a mullet.

:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
10X1.50, you're welcome.

I found that two studs at the 10:00 and 2:00 positions worked well for alignment pins.

I'm working on a tool for removing the flanges when studded, stay tuned.
 
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