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Discussion Starter #1
We're building my buddies 95 yj. 4.0/700r4/toy/d300 and 60/14b. 42" Iroks probably. 106-108" Wheelbase. He has and LT1 that could go in it. But we don't think the cases will be as reliable with that much torque put to them. 4.0's reliable, good milage and there already. With that said. Heres the vehicle as it started.

35" MTR's 4.56's 30/44 Rear Ox, SOA.


This is where were at.

Shackle Reversal


We're using the stock rear hanger in the front. Flipped 180 degrees and braced. It gives about a 2" drop, it fits nicely, and its free. It will be gusseted well before we finish, this is only tacked. Toy Front's that have a 2" forward offset.


D-side notched to clear the steering box. (This is before it was cleaned up)


14bolt Disc, Sky Brackets.


Were getting ready to cut the frame at the hump and run it straight back. We have about 3-5"'s to much lift in the rear as it sits. Regular Dakotas in the rear cut down overload. (Wrap bar to come)(Eventually it will be linked)


Shackels are for mockup


More to come as we go. Thoughts and comments are welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
First question. Were gettin ready to cut the rear frame at the hump and run it straight back. That way we can lower the rear of the jeep. After we get that done we'll have to build the rear hanger for the front springs. Is it better to drill a hole through the frame, sleave and mount the top of the shackle there? Or to weld a CJ style hanger to the bottom of the frame and mount the shackle from there? The first would allow a longer shackle, but is it nessisary?
 

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isn't it really expensive to put a 700r4 behind a 4.0? an AW4 would be really cheap, and I definitely think it's a better tranny. I have a 4.0/AW4/stock 231 with 4.88s and 35s and it crawls great. You could do 4.0/AW4/4:1 D300 with 5.13s and it should crawl really well with 42s, and a lot cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
BrettM said:
isn't it really expensive to put a 700r4 behind a 4.0? an AW4 would be really cheap, and I definitely think it's a better tranny. I have a 4.0/AW4/stock 231 with 4.88s and 35s and it crawls great. You could do 4.0/AW4/4:1 D300 with 5.13s and it should crawl really well with 42s, and a lot cheaper.
The LT1/700r4/toy case is in an izuzu trooper project thats getting scraped. The only adapters to buy are the 4.0 to 700r4 and the toy/d300 adapter. Already have the 300. This way we can run stock 4.10's.

Anybody need a 35000 mile lt1?:)
 

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what u askin for the motor?
 

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you could just inboard/outboard the rear springs and move the mounts up the amount of lift you want to loose instead of chopping at the hump. weld some tubing acorss the back and mount your shackle hanger to that. set your rear shackle angle at ~50-60 degrees angled towards the back to provide the right amount of comp/extension. I outboarded the springs on my cj and used durango springs which have the same dimensions as the dakotas. works very well. plenty of flex / good stability. also, i don't think the dakotas should provide more than 3" of lift themselves. that's what the durango's provided. I use whipped waggys in the front (~0" lift) and set-up my rears to provide ~1" of lift. good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
We're cuttin the rearend of the frame in anticipation of coils at a later date. I guess we could inboard. Thats something to think about. But were already pretty sure about the rear end.

The question was more for the front leaf springs. For the shackle mount in the rear, should the frame be drilled, sleeved, and a bushing put inside. Or should we just use a CJ spring mount welded to the frame? I guess its gonna depend on our desired ride height. But the shackle looks like it will be really short if we mount it directly to the frame.
 

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tru

yep - just need to set it for your ride height, doesn't matter how. But, also remember where/how you mount the shackle, the length, etc. will impact your pinion angle/caster/etc. as well.

later.
 

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On my front I did the bushing in the frame with stock YJ shackles. In order to get the right placement for the bushing hole, I put the weight down on the leaf pack and let it slid along the bottom of the frame rail. It was suprising how far the end of the F150s move with the weight on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
One other thing, we're simply using the stock rear spring hangers in the front. We're gonna build some gussets and strengthen them before we are done. Just wondering if anyone else has done this? Any pics of strengthening?
 

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Looks good so far. I am going thorugh the same motions on my YJ, installinga 14 bolt on the rear. What springs are you planning to run front and rear, and estimated wheelbase?


Edit > Ops, believe I missed, Toy front springs and Dakota rears?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
geberhard said:
Looks good so far. I am going thorugh the same motions on my YJ, installinga 14 bolt on the rear. What springs are you planning to run front and rear, and estimated wheelbase?
He's also running a 14bolt/disc/shaved/4.10 gears. Allpro toy fronts and dakota rears with the overload leaf cut in half. Right now with mockup were lookin at 106.5. Hoping for 108 but we'll see.
 

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Just curious, why not just run the 700r4 with dual toy cases? I know the d300 might be stronger, but then you wouldnt have to mess with transfercase linkage cause both toy cases already have there own shifter out the top. Twin stick wouldnt be that bad though on d300. Offcourse you would have to buy another toy case.
 

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Just curious, why not just run the 700r4 with dual toy cases? I know the d300 might be stronger, but then you wouldnt have to mess with transfercase linkage cause both toy cases already have there own shifter out the top. Twin stick wouldnt be that bad though on d300. Offcourse you would have to buy another toy case. Plus if its not low enough a low gear set for a toy case is less than a low gears set for a dana 300.
 

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its my jeep and cj has been a big help. the rear 14 bolt is 67 inches wide with sky disc brake brackets, front chevy d44 4x4 rotors and front 44 calipers. the set-up was easy and slick as hell!
 
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