[usmcdoc14]

or i could have gotten this shat before the weekend
now i can begin the adventure of rebuilding and putting an AMC 360,tf727 in a CJ-5:flipoff2:
Those that have done this before,is there any little annoying thing that you forgot to do? cause i always forget something stupid that causes something not to run for like 3 days untill i chase every wire only to find that i never tied it into the fuze block or somethin.
next stop axle upgrades cause that 20 is not going to take much of this

 

[Chief yelling alot]

But its still an AMC :flipoff2:

 

[ForestCam]

Well you got a carton of smokes..... lets see.......ummm....... BEER! YOU FORGOT BEER!

 

[usmcdoc14]

But its still an AMC :flipoff2:

great i am taking slack from a man who owns internationals:flipoff2:

 

[usmcdoc14]

Well you got a carton of smokes..... lets see.......ummm....... BEER! YOU FORGOT BEER!

funny you should mention that, the only places open durring the snow were package stores . but durring this build up i will have a desiganted builder one person will remain sober to point out the a$$ups of the alchohol impared.
also to prevent use of a hammer on pricy items:flipoff2:

 

[weps]

Thanks Doc!

to prevent use of a hammer on pricy items

I'm going to add that to my sig line, There is TOO MUCH truth to it! Good luck on the buildup!




WEPS

 

[Chrisjeep7]

Those that have done this before,is there any little annoying thing that you forgot to do?

nope, it is easy as a 10 cent hooker. although my heater dont work worth a crap





:flipoff2:

 

[misfitcj]

is that bungge cord attached to the old heater hose ??? ........ltr

 

[jeepnmatt]

USMC,

2 things:

1) do the front oiling upgrade while you are in there. its where you drill and tap an oil galley plug that is behind the cam gear and thread and loc-tite a mig tip in it. it doesn't take much time and is fairly easy to do. after drilling and tapping the plug, thread it back in then block, then screw the mig tip in.

2) this one is more difficult to explain...read here and then ask if you have any questions:

http://bbs.off-road.com/ubbthreads/...Number=913784&page=&view=&sb=&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

if i were to do it again, i would first try to put a restriction in the bypass hose. i think the problem is the Edelbrock intakes have less inherent restriction than the factory cast iron intakes. this allows more hot coolant to bypass the rad and get recirculated back into the engine, where it gets hotter.

please let me know what you do and how it works. i'm trying to gather info/data from people that have done this to see if it works in all cases.

matt

 

[usmcdoc14]

hmmm the restrictor idea sounds like it will work i am also going to screen the lifter valley and try the cam oiling thing (both i read are good ideas) also running an oil cooler and a big arse tranny cooler both with fans.
anyone else with little hints?

 

[jeepnmatt]

i didn't see a new timing chain in the pic...might as well while youa re in there.

 

[madmarx]

Hey Doc, I am only 98% certain on this, but I don't this the Headers will fit if they are inframe, I believe they dump almost directly into the tranny. And if they are fenderwell's you will mash them in the rocks. I am on my second set with my 360/727/300 in my CJ7. I have a set of CJ manifolds I am going to put on with an exhaust that runs inside the framerails. Also you will want to push the engine as far forward as possible to get a good rear driveshaft length. I think mine is about 23 inches long right now with a 60 and SOA with a 95 inch wheelbase. It is probably going to get stretched soon. You can use the same wiring harness as the 6 cylinder. Use the Torqueflyte cable kickdown kit from Lokar. It was about 50 bucks and was much easier to use than the stock linkage. Run a shroud, it really helps keep things cool. Be careful while setting the engine and tranny in place. I mashed the tranny dipstick while putting mine in place. YOu have to run a small driveshaft for the front so that it clears the tranny pan. I am going to get a clocking ring and run the driveshaft beside the tranny pan, but you have to do floor mods if you clock the tcase flat. If you have any more questions, please do not hesitate to email me at [email protected]. I did this about 4 years ago, and I really like it.