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Tool and shop tips & tricks FAQ

320780 Views 287 Replies 204 Participants Last post by  binksman
I thought we should start a thread where can share our most useful tips and tricks.

I'll start with how I learned to seal threaded pipes for air and liquid. I learned this from a journeyman plumber. Since I have been using his method, I have yet to have to re-do an air or liquid threaded fitting. Brandon asked how others did this in his thread on shop air.

First wrap the threads with Teflon tape. Then use Whitlam's Blue magic sealer on top of the Teflon tape. Assemble the parts. It's good to go right away.

The Blue magic semi hardens enough overnight that if you touch it, it won't rub off.

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Not sure how many people know about these, but they can be very useful for layout and for measuring in general anytime when ~1/20" precision is adequate.

It's an engineers tape measure and it's graduated in 0.01', 0.1' and 1.0'.

It breaks feet into base ten like the metric system and lets you make measurements that are easier to add/subtract/divide quickly and without error.

View attachment 2079889


For example: I wanted to space these slider supports out evenly over a 3.16' span.


View attachment 2079897

3.16' / 4 = 0.79'

0.79' x 1 = 0.79'
0.79' x 2 = 1.58'
0.79' x 3 = 2.37'
0.79' x 4 = 3.16'

make marks at 0', 0.79', 1.58', 2.37' and 3.16' and done.

much easier than doing math on fractions or converting back and forth between them and decimal equivalents.
Those fawking things should have huge warning labels on them. You know you could just go ahead and use the metric system for it's benefits instead of trying to make imperial untis perform like metric....

I needed to order some spare trailer axles, so I grabbed a tape and crawled under my trailer. I knew the spring perch distance I thought I needed. Used the tape and came up with a number that didn't make sense. Remeasured, still didn't make sense. I went and got another tape to compare thinking the first one might have stretched or been damaged. All the foot marks lined up, but the "inches" didn't.

I seriously considered tossing that tape into my contractor buddies truck for the ensuing funny, but decided against it.

Edit: Mine only had the tenths on it, not a combo tape like you're shown.
You know you could just go ahead and use the metric system for it's benefits instead of trying to make imperial untis perform like metric....
Thanks for your permission. :)

I too prefer the metric system, but in a world where materials are dimensioned in inches this seemed like a decent compromise. If i need to think in inches for tube and so forth I can use the inch side of the tape. For point to point measurements or measurements that need to be added/divided/subtracted I use the engineers scale.

I would actually like to find a tape that had feet, inches, and tenth (even 1/20") inches. I think that would be very useful for what we do because you could just measure everything: tube, plate etc to the 1/20". All common materials with inch dimensions would have useful decimal equivalents, (i.e. 1 3/4" tube = 1.75" tube) which were easier to manipulate.

I actually thought that's what this was when i ordered it but it's still somewhat useful.
I used to drink a lot of beer just so I could use the boxes for templates. :D
I found that aluminum roof flashing works better. It can be cut with scissors, is oil, fire,water and mouse resistant and you can punch your centermarks in it. You may be able to plasma right around it if you make it smaller by half your plasma's tip. I tried to get overly fancy and use magnets to hold it just above the material, but that didn't work well.

A radius arm mount:

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If you break a tap off in a blind hole, just get out your torch. The steel that the tap is made from has a high carbon content and will burn easily. Get it glowing good and bright and just bump the oxygen lever and the tap will disappear. You can also open the oxygen valve more than you normally do when adjusting your flame and let the oxidized flame eat away at the tap.
Not sure how many people know about these, but they can be very useful for layout and for measuring in general anytime when ~1/20" precision is adequate.

It's an engineers tape measure and it's graduated in 0.01', 0.1' and 1.0'.

It breaks feet into base ten like the metric system and lets you make measurements that are easier to add/subtract/divide quickly and without error.

View attachment 2079889


For example: I wanted to space these slider supports out evenly over a 3.16' span.


View attachment 2079897

3.16' / 4 = 0.79'

0.79' x 1 = 0.79'
0.79' x 2 = 1.58'
0.79' x 3 = 2.37'
0.79' x 4 = 3.16'

make marks at 0', 0.79', 1.58', 2.37' and 3.16' and done.

much easier than doing math on fractions or converting back and forth between them and decimal equivalents.
Could always use a rivet fan too, spaces holes evenly over any distance.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=rivet+fan&client=firefox-b&biw=1280&bih=619&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjSz4q0zubRAhUFG5QKHdT_BG0QsAQIJA
For storing nut, bolts, screws, and nails I take a empty plastic oil can and cut the top off right where it starts to slope up towards the spout. They are rectangular and fit into a drawer or on a shelf etc. without all the lost space from a round container. Tip-clean the inside before use..

When taking out a bolt in a hard to reach place or starting a bolt in a hard to reach spot (Be careful not to crossthread) I put a small wadded up bit of Duct Tape or Masking Tape into the socket. It holds the bolt in the socket yet releases it once it is installed.
If drilling through stainless, use mustard as a lubricant. We use it at work and have easily doubled the life of our drill bits and hole saws.
If drilling through stainless, use mustard as a lubricant. We use it at work and have easily doubled the life of our drill bits and hole saws.
Pardon me; but do you have any Grey Poupon?:rolleyes:

Cool tip.. I going to remember that.:smokin:
Jack Stands Caddie?

I have three sets of jack stands (6T,4t, and 3T) Does anyone have a novel idea for storing these pigs. I have a small garage and floor space is at a premium. :homer:
If drilling through stainless, use mustard as a lubricant. We use it at work and have easily doubled the life of our drill bits and hole saws.
Great tip if it's true.
How many things did you try before you tried mustard? How a bout steak sauce or dandelion inner blood?

Asking for a friend
Thanks
Great tip if it's true.
How many things did you try before you tried mustard? How a bout steak sauce or dandelion inner blood?

Asking for a friend
Thanks
Picked that up from an old electrician at work.

Same guy also showed us that Tabasco will clean up tarnished/corroded copper buss bar.
Great tip if it's true.
How many things did you try before you tried mustard? How a bout steak sauce or dandelion inner blood?

Asking for a friend
Thanks
Soapy water (like Dawn) works great.
I have three sets of jack stands (6T,4t, and 3T) Does anyone have a novel idea for storing these pigs. I have a small garage and floor space is at a premium. :homer:
Dad always hung his on the wall.
I have three sets of jack stands (6T,4t, and 3T) Does anyone have a novel idea for storing these pigs. I have a small garage and floor space is at a premium. :homer:

I tossed together a jack-stand tree. I can roll it around and get them out of my way. My garage is just to fucking small.

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When you have shitty C clamps and the little slide handles get all bent and shitty, cut them off and weld nuts to the end of the threaded rod. You can now tighten them with a wrench, or an impact. I center drilled my nuts on the lathe because they were 1/2in nuts.
Angle grinder adapter.

I found this angle grinder jig/adapter. Fucking looks useful.

5
I've got a cheap Norther Tool plasma. It's got the cheap Trafimet S45 torch. I get the cheap drag tips from Ebay and use a straight edge or 1/4" MDF template to cut almost everything. I make templates from cardboard then transfer them to MDF. The transferred template needs to be over or undersized by the width of the cutting tip. I ground the end of an old tip flat, and drilled out the hole for a ball point pen. I just trace the part to be cut and the my template will duplicate the part.








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I completely agree that over heating can be very dangerous, I was not recommending only a small amount of heat and only on the BLEEDER it self. It doesn't take more than a few seconds of heat then being cooled quickly to break the bleeder loose
Thanks for pointing out the dangers of overheating
BLEEDER

FIFY
This ones a bit lame, but sweet sweet relief and fun at times.


If you need to drill a buncha holes, or a couple of big ones, straight up under a rig on a hoist, and possibly have muppet arm syndrome...

Place your tranny jack under the butt of the drill.

Gently jack the drill up as you drill. Muppet arms 100% relieved. Plus you can stand out of range of the swarf
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