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How many of you have busted a U-joint on the trail only to find that the ears on one (or both) of the yokes have compressed too much to get a new joint in it? Simple fix is to carry about 1 foot of 1/2" or 5/8" all thread with a few nuts and fender washers. You can then position the nuts and washers on the all thread inside the yoke and open the ears right back up with a couple of end wrenches. Have done this many times over the years and it works like a charm. You can really dial them in for perfect fitment of the joint as well.
 

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When you laying under your rig on a concrete surface put a moving blanket down first. If a bolt or nut drops it wont hit the concrete and bounce away never to be found again, a piece of cardboard works but not as well,
 

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RTV a piece of 3/8 or 1/4 hose to the end of a shop vac crevice tool for retrieving non magnetic items.(I RTV'ed both) That way you don't suck the part in with the junk.

Make a adjustable suction gizmo for your shop vac. Drill some 1/2 inch holes in some 2 inch black drain pipe, the same diameter as the hose. A rubber clampon coupler is slid over the holes to adjust suction. A second coupler can make it a semi permanent addition.
 

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This is a good tip. I also use the red straws for other uses. You can use them to double check timing belt marks when you are not able to look straight down the pulley to check the mark to the pulley. Put the red straw on the pulley to the mark. A lot of help to older eyes.



Saving those little red straws off aresol cans in a parts organizer has saved me lots of time not having to search for one. I also save a few of the old sprayers off the cans incase I have a paint can with a plugged tip.
 

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try toothpaste for getting grease of your hands.
used to work at place that made it and we never used proper cleaner just toothpaste but it does make your arms tingle a bit
 

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Foil is also useful for making "gutters" to route oil when removing those filiters that would otherwise leak onto stuff and make a mess
The foil is great for covering up wires and hoses when painting in the engine bay. It wraps around different shapes and sizes and you don't need to mess with tape.
 

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Something I have learned when I used to work on semi trucks

Pull the cap off of a U-joint slowly, and grease the needle bearings. Stick the u-joint back in it's box, and freeze it. When you are installing the U-joint on your drive shaft, the cap will not come off.

If you can afford it, buy the same tool more than once if you have certain jobs that you do often. For example, I am a Nissan tech, and whenever I have to do a battery service, I have glass cleaner, battery clean up, corrosion preventative, a blow gun, 2 battery terminal cleaners (one with a good terminal cleaner, and the other with a good clamp cleaner) a 12mm for the + clamp, and a flex head 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm permanently attached to it, felt wafers, all in one droor. I keep certain tools assembled as well (1/2" impact, 3" extension, and a 21MM lugnut socket), my cordless drill has a 1/4" drill bit attached to it all the time, and my 1/4" air ratchet has a 10" extension and a 1/4" socket attached to it. I hardly ever have to worry about it.:)

Save your 5qt. engine oil jugs. I keep an empty one, and I took a sharpie, and made marks equivalent to each vehicle I own (GMC, Xterra, MR2 etc.) and I just take the remainder of the oil from each synthetic oil change (7qts, but only need 6.25) and you will be able to change the oil in all of your vehicles in less than the specified time, and you will have synthetic all the time. I also keep an empty 1qt. around because when you reach your specified amount, you have some to start the next one.

Rotating tires(assuming you have a rack): If you do the fronts X'ed to the back, and the backs go straight forward rotation (quite common), then remove all lug nuts from all tires, and then remove one tire, and roll it to it's destination. Now that corner is open, and you just carry the next tire onto position. Repeat for each corner, and you will only have to pick up one tire.

Wheels stay in position after all lug nuts are off? If a good tug will not work, thread one lug nut back on, and give it a couple of turns on the thread, Use your largest pry bar, and pry against a lower control arm.

Oil Changes: First thing you do is put the oil cap right there in the hood latch mechanism, so that you cannot close the hood. After the filter and plug are removed, if you have forgot to put oil in, you can't close your hood. If you break your oil cap, you are out $10, if you blow your engine......see?
 

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Floor cleaner

To get up all sorts of oil stains on concrete floors, spread kitty litter over the area and then soak the living heck out of it with mineral spirits. The mineral spirits pulls the oil from the concrete and then the kitty litter soaks it up. Let it fully air dry and then just sweep it up, most the time you can still reuse the kitty litter.
 

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Oil Changes: First thing you do is put the oil cap right there in the hood latch mechanism, so that you cannot close the hood. After the filter and plug are removed, if you have forgot to put oil in, you can't close your hood. If you break your oil cap, you are out $10, if you blow your engine......see?
or whipe off your dipstick and thread it through your key ring
 

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to make a good good fixture / welding bench use a simple angle iron frame then use two three pieces however many pieces you need of one inch square tubing either bolt them to the frame then bolt your work to it or use c clamps if you have complex angles you can use angle iron vise grips and a protactor to get it right put a welding blanket underneath to keep it cleaner especiallif your cutting with a torch or plasma if your working with tubing use u bolts and or plumbers tape or hose clamps to clamp to whatever fixture you are using this is what i used to do before my table got stolen haha so i gotta make me a new one
 

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subscribed! Great info in here.

I like to use the computer duster cans to clean out blind tapped holes when i dont have a compressor. Its a pretty good blast and with the red tube it can be accurate.
 

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You know those rubber mats that you find in the beds of pickups?
They make nice anti fatigue mats in front of your workbench,parts washer or whatever. Free! just cut off the extra that goes around the wheel well's.

Need a tap for a spark plug threads? Take an old spark plug and cut a couple groove's in it like a tap.
 

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For weird screws that need to "stick" to the screwdriver or socket, try a piece of electrical tape. Poke the screw right through, stick it to the sides of the tool. Then, once it is in, just tear off the tape (or leave it alone if it doesn't matter).

Magnetize tools by pulling the tool sideways across a magnet (if + === -, pull across the short side). To de-magnetize, pull tool the long way across the magnet.

This one isn't really a tool tip, per se, but the new LED pocket lights like the new Blue Point offering are worth their weight in gold. Last months on a set of batteries and shine in places larger lights don't. I never leave the house without one of these in my pocket. It will take care of big lighting jobs almost as well as a mag light.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=81796&group_ID=17086&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
 

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I posted this a while ago but it wasn't in this thread. When using a hole saw in metal, to keep from breaking the pilot bit, cut a hole w/ the saw in a piece of plywood and then clamp it to the metal. You can also remove the pilot bit if you need circles w/o holes and it works good for enlarging holes.
 

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Changing tires and have a rim stuck to the drum/rotor(yes after you've taken the lug nuts off,) and it ain't budging? Take the top most lug nut and spin it back on a few threads, then go get your favorite sledgehammer and hit the tire at the bottom, good and hard. Be sure that your back swing has lots of room for rebound. I haven't had one stick once the sledge comes out. If you're big enough, skip the sledge and stand with your back to the tire and kick the tire with your heel.
 

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I posted this a while ago but it wasn't in this thread. When using a hole saw in metal, to keep from breaking the pilot bit, cut a hole w/ the saw in a piece of plywood and then clamp it to the metal. You can also remove the pilot bit if you need circles w/o holes and it works good for enlarging holes.
You can also get a 1/4" bolt and cut the head off and put it in place of the drill bit after the pilot is drilled
 

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DO NOT use the straw on cans of (brake/carb cleaner, WD40, PB, etc...) while spraying into holes.

Buddy of mine was spraying lube into the head-bolt hole on a 22RE we just put together. Straw popped off and into the hole it went. 20 minutes of digging at it with picks and screwdrivers....my lightbulb came on, and I grabbed the air hose and blew it out.
 
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