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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I bought the 4 runner the alt. was out. So I put another in. That was four months ago, now this one is smoked well the voltage regulator anyways.Checked all the common stuff, no broken connections. Any clues? <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">

thanks
brett
 

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dude i am on my third alternator in a two years,
i had gotten a reman bosch unit, that acted like the regulator was surging the whole time, so i pulled it out and the next one worked fine for like 9 months before it did the same thing, it would work interminently
and now i spent two days fucking with the last one.
i would advise at the very least to get a lifetime warranty
or possibly dealer.

if anyone else has an opinion please share, because what a pint it is to change that POS every 9 months
 

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Originally posted by Chris Geiger:
<STRONG>Buy a replacment unit directly from Toyota, none of the reman units even come close.</STRONG>
<font size="5">Got lubricant?</font>


[ 10-16-2001: Message edited by: MasterYota ]
 

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run new thick wires to replace the two white ones
 

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Here's what I just did. Replace that Denso or Bosch with a delco Remy (GM) internal regulating alt. It took me about 1 hour after I had all the nuts and bolts. The advantages are it's simpler cause I converted it to 2 wire (no external regulator) and they're cheap. If you decide to do it ask me how because there's another post on here that has some potential problems with the way it's wired.
 

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Originally posted by MasterYota:
<STRONG>
Originally posted by Chris Geiger:
[qb]Buy a replacment unit directly from Toyota, none of the reman units even come close.</STRONG>
<font size="5">Got lubricant?</font>


[ 10-16-2001: Message edited by: MasterYota ][/QB]
You get what you pay for!!!
<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Buy a Toyota new or reman unit and then pull it apart and repack the bearings with grease every couple years. They may be sealed, but the grease eventually goes away a tiny bit at a time.

Bosch rebuilt alternators are JUNK just like most rebuilts! Had a Bosch rebuilt that lasted about a year...got my money back...as that was a replacement for their brand lifetime warranty junk that they no longer carried due to quality issues.
 

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Originally posted by FattyCBR:
<STRONG>Here's what I just did. Replace that Denso or Bosch with a delco Remy (GM) internal regulating alt. It took me about 1 hour after I had all the nuts and bolts. The advantages are it's simpler cause I converted it to 2 wire (no external regulator) and they're cheap. If you decide to do it ask me how because there's another post on here that has some potential problems with the way it's wired.</STRONG>

Please explain the correct way to wire the 2 wires. I believe you were referring to the thread that I was involved with a week or so ago.

My set up works great so far. Now I am nervous, and hoping i dont fry my new Delco.

By the way, I have already connected the white wire to the ignition wire, and the red wire is going to the battery. And the red wire is a 8 gauge. Again, please correct me if I am wrong. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Mine died last October due to stock brushes being worn down after 140K. It was a Saturday and I couldn't get brushes so I called Pepboys(reluctant of their starters and alternators)for an alternator.

They give you a dyno print out of the alternator output through the rpm range. Alt was rated for 60 amps but maxed out at 79 amps. Lifetime warranty $60.00

I haven't had a problem at all with this alt so I can't really complain. I do have brushes on hand now just in case.
 

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Originally posted by SCMK:
<STRONG>
Please explain the correct way to wire the 2 wires. I believe you were referring to the thread that I was involved with a week or so ago.

My set up works great so far. Now I am nervous, and hoping i dont fry my new Delco.

By the way, I have already connected the white wire to the ignition wire, and the red wire is going to the battery. And the red wire is a 8 gauge. Again, please correct me if I am wrong. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Ok I wired by brown wire to a xwitched 12v source (ignition) and then ran a 4ga. wire from the recharge bolt to the battery. The reason I ran a switched wire was that a guy I've wheeled with blew his when he ran the brown wire to the recharge bolt. Colors may vary as to wires but I'm running the third wire on the plug to the ignition (counting the big (red) wire as 1, black as 2, and brown as 3). I'm not sure I was referring to you, there was one person who posted a pic showing no connection to a switched 12v source.

YMMV
 

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I put in dual batteries and a diode splitter for the charging circuit. After that my Charge light was always blinking, more often with a high load, it was probably because of the diode voltage drop. I ended up replacing the alternator that finally went out (lifetime warranty), I also got rid of the diode splitter and just put a high amp switch in the charging circuit. I still get a faint blink on the charge light that is very, very infrequent. My next small task is to put an ammeter in, but I still keep wondering if I have an intermittent failure somewhere in the charge / battery circuit because of that blink.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well what I am getting is a run down battery if I leave it connected. If it runs down and I jump it, the charge light does not come on for 20-30, till it charges the battery up. But not only does the charge light come on but the brake light does as well. Now when the engine idles down the lights go off, but soon as I start driving again they both come back on.
Does mine not have an internal regulator? hmm
Thanks for the great info. so far!
 

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posted 10-16-2001 02:58 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Chris Geiger:
Buy a replacment unit directly from Toyota, none of the reman units even come close.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Got lubricant?
Well put! I had a "Factory Reman" from Toyota, (ND, actually) and it did the same thing as described, which is fry the
diode(s). This allows the battery to back flow to the alt when the key is off, and heats the alt, drains the battery. So I have a NAPA one now, which at least has a warranty good for 2 years, not 1!
I wish I had kept the core...It might have been worth changing diodes, and having a ready spare. Warrantees are almost worthless when it quits on Sunday 200 miles from home....
<IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">
 

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Here's a pic of my GM alternator in my Toyota. You can see how I wired it with the brown wire going to switched source.
 

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Lately my charge light (AND sensor light) on my 81 California smog pickup with a/c have been coming on intermittently. I cleaned, lubed, and replaced the brushes and it still does the same thing. I unplugged the alternator connector at thea alternator and crimped the female connectors (down inside the alt plug) with some small needle nose pliers and it seemed to be fixed...for a couple of hours...now it's back but not quite as often. So I monitored the charge volts for a couple days with a DVM plugged into the cigarette lighter...it ranged between about 11.6 and 13.8 volts the whole time regardless of wwhen the two lights came on. Don't know about the amps but my battery stays charged (new exide copy of Optima redtop) and it's an occasional driver.

Also replaced the IC regulator on left innner fender...no change. My yota manual mentions a charge light relay that looks like it's under passenger side dash, but I couldn't find it and it's like $100 from Toyota. Anybody have same problem or ideas?
 
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