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Man Child
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Discussion Starter #1
I just swaped the flanges on my pinion. Can someone give me the torques spec for the pinion nut?
 

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There is no torque spec, it's based on the bearing preload. However, I can say that you gotta put at least 200 foot-pounds on the crush sleeve to get it going (did you put a new sleve in?).
 

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Dont bring this debate up again. :rolleyes:
but I would put it where it was and a little more and stake it.
 

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Man Child
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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry, I didn't know it was a topic for debate. The crush sleave is already crushed of course. I guess I'll just wrench it down good and stake it.
 

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yep (you should always use a new crush sleeve when loosening the nut. )

You will be fine just retorqueing back to where it was. I had one for a year and a half like that, and it did finally sieze the bearing but I think that was because the weld broke.:flipoff2:
It lasted a while though. probably 75,000 miles
 

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Man Child
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Discussion Starter #7
JamisonWorkshop said:
yep (you should always use a new crush sleeve when loosening the nut. )

You will be fine just retorqueing back to where it was. I had one for a year and a half like that, and it did finally sieze the bearing but I think that was because the weld broke.:flipoff2:
It lasted a while though. probably 75,000 miles

A buddy of mine just set up the third and after he got everything together he back the nut off so that I could swap or redrill the flange. I just went out there, put a decent size breaker bar on it, gave it all I had and staked the nut. Everything should be cool according to him I just wanted to see if there was a spec on it.


Thanks!
 

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Priest said:

I just went out there, put a decent size breaker bar on it, gave it all I had and staked the nut. Everything should be cool according to him I just wanted to see if there was a spec on it.
Thanks!
If you get the chance this weekend, lift the rearend, pull the axles out of the carrier, and see if you can easily spin the pinion by hand. I've found that the proper bearing preload is pretty close to "slight tension on the pinion when spun by hand", too much torque on the nut quickly becomes "can't move that sucker without a hernia".
 

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I work in a Toyota dealer. We never put new crush sleeves in when we put in pinion seals. But the nut must go back to exactly where is was, or just a little tighter. We have yet to have a comeback because of it.
 

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OffroadRunner said:
I work in a Toyota dealer. We never put new crush sleeves in when we put in pinion seals. But the nut must go back to exactly where is was, or just a little tighter. We have yet to have a comeback because of it.
:flipoff2: yea right that you no of :rolleyes:
 

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Man Child
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Discussion Starter #13
OffroadRunner said:


I work the shop counter, so I see everything that comes in the door. :flipoff2:

Yeah, and what the hell would GearMan know.... it's not like he owns the most reputable Diff shop around or happens to be one of those damn POR guys that flogs the hell out of Toyotas.... :flipoff2:
 

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Damn Service Writers think they know everything

WRONG can't stand them. I work in parts, and every part that goes into the shop goes through my hands.

Damn people can't anybody take alittle joking around. I was just joking with Gearman. He does good work(from what I hear). He was jokin with me. You guys just have to jump in and get all defensive. LOOOOOSSSSSENNNNN UP
 

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I'm swapping an 88 rear into an 83. Does everything match up? and will my 83 flange fit onto the 88 pinion?
 
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