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Discussion Starter #1
My son bought a 87 extra cab with 33 X 12.50 X 15's on it. The PO had turned the torsion bars way up on it. We were trying to drop them back down and one side refuses to drop. We have taken the bolt at the rear near the tranny completely out and the front doesn't drop. Need suggestions and advice.

Thanks,
Fred
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Shock seized up.
Nope.

The A arms function as they should with the suspension on the ground. But the A arm is still turned in the down position (with the bolt completely loose) as it would be if you were cranking on the torsion bar to give yourself more tire clearance. On the other side if I back off on the bolt my tire clearance decreases.
 

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Are you putting a wrench(7/8-22mm) I think? on the nut insert/sleeve on the top? If not you are still preloaded. As stated before be careful! If that bolt snaps lookout ! You may get hurt and have to fix a hole under the seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Are you putting a wrench(7/8-22mm) I think? on the nut insert/sleeve on the top? If not you are still preloaded. As stated before be careful! If that bolt snaps lookout ! You may get hurt and have to fix a hole under the seat.
Bolts and nuts have been replaced on both sides with new bolts from Toyota. Thats how we discovered that one side dropped (tire clearance became less) and the other never moved at all.
 

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Only other thing is a-arm bushings froze up, with bar unloaded does it settle at all? Does the bracket on the end of the bar rotate up when you take the bolt out?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Only other thing is a-arm bushings froze up, with bar unloaded does it settle at all? Does the bracket on the end of the bar rotate up when you take the bolt out?
It does not settle with the bolt out. The A arm moves up and down as it should if you were hitting a bump, but did not decrease the ride height. The bracket remains where it was when the bolt is taken out.
 

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I just went out and looked at my '89. I only have two guesses.

1- When the arms were cranked up, a rock or other debris got wedged between the torsion cam and the inside of the frame rail.

2- The "pocket" the cam rides in is bent, binding the cam from releasing. It seems if it was bent enough to bind, damage would be pretty obvious.

Either way, put the bolt assembly back in to contain the energy prior to working on it at all. Once the bolt is tight, look inside (mirror?) for the cause of binding.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Found multiple problems. One of the PO'S did a shoddy patch job on the RH side where the A-Arm bolts on. Looks like my only option to fix the IFS is to locate a replacement bracket to weld to the frame. Anyone have any ideas where to find one? Tried to load a couple pics but had no luck.
 

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Found multiple problems. One of the PO'S did a shoddy patch job on the RH side where the A-Arm bolts on. Looks like my only option to fix the IFS is to locate a replacement bracket to weld to the frame. Anyone have any ideas where to find one? Tried to load a couple pics but had no luck.
One reason not to crank the T-bars!!
 

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be very careful, there is a (((((( LOT )))))) of load on them bad boys.
I can back this up. I cut apart a chassis for spares. We set a backhoe bucket down onto it, to keep the energy from being too dangerous. Even with the pressure from the bucket, the energy was enough to cause the section of chassis to move from under the bucket. It didn't spring upward, but it did do damage to the bucket, and left one hell of a crater in the ground. Just an FYI, it was a V6 chassis, and the bolts just wanted to spin rather than come loose. We were forced to cut them, without releasing the pressure.
 

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Get another t-bar. Take a torch and heat the bar up by the upper control arm , it will unloaded due to the heat and cut it off . With all the sa swaps going on there shouldn't be any problem finding one. What ever is going on doesn't make sense and as stated before there is an insane amount of force that will unload (if you're familiar with firearms , pull the trigger and you see the hole in the target at the same time fast).
 

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If you have had the preload bolt out and nothing happens. Can you see any cracks splits in the cast piece on upper a-arm? Pull the rubber boot back and clean up with brake cleaner to see if the splines are lined up, if they are good then it's on the other end . I think the bar is toast no matter what. What frame bracket you need or is damaged. There is a good possibility I have one .
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
If you have had the preload bolt out and nothing happens. Can you see any cracks splits in the cast piece on upper a-arm? Pull the rubber boot back and clean up with brake cleaner to see if the splines are lined up, if they are good then it's on the other end . I think the bar is toast no matter what. What frame bracket you need or is damaged. There is a good possibility I have one .
Its the RH side bracket that has the 3 bolt holes and the engine mount welded to it. The 3 bolts go to the cast bar that holds the upper A-Arm.
 
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