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Discussion Starter #1
I am interested in making my own anti-rock sway bars out of some s10 torsion bars. What should I be using for the splined outer sections? I have access to a wire edm and i could draw up a program in sw but if anyone knows of an easier source for the ends it would be much appreciated.
 

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Do S-10 torsion bars have splines or the octagonal shape like the foolsize IFS? Chaeck Reddman's build thread, he built a rear sway bar using GM torsion bar and the cut and welded stock "porkchops"
 

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The stock S-10 bars are too long in stock form, but have a cast octagon-shape on both ends.

The welded pork-chops idea will work, but will eventually fail unless you send it out to have it re-heat-treated to the springer temper. Once you weld to it, you changed the crystal structure and create a brittle Heat Affected Zone.

Who really knows how long it will take to fail (1 month, or 10 years), but that's besides the point.

Seems to me if you're talking about re-splining something like that, you're going to be spending a lot of dough (and therefore wasting your time cause you coulda just bought a Anti-Rock). I know Dutchman axles in OR does that kinda stuff, but from everything I can remember it's just too pricey.

I've heard of guys "splining" their own shafts with an angle grinder, and using a cut-off wheel like a woodruff cutter...I dunno about this either though. If you've got access to some sort of indexing device that would allow you to do this every xx degrees, then this might work, but I don't think anyone has a steady enough hand to spline shafts with nothing more than a grinder and a deep breath.

If you come up with something worth-while, post it up because I'm curious about it as well. Good luck!
 

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I thought the S-10 torsion bars were octagonal like the foolsized, IIRC Reddman cut the porkchop into a square and welded it into the arm for his sway bar. IF welding the cast porkchops bothers you, use stock lower A-Arms, they are stamped steel and would weld just fine.

How do you know a stock torsion bar is too long? He didn't say how wide his rig was. I don't know how long a stock torsion bar is, but that might give another option to make it fit with out cutting.
 

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I think Reddman used a toy IFS bar, but could be mistaken. It think they are splined..
 

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I think Reddman used a toy IFS bar, but could be mistaken. It think they are splined..
Ooops, you're right. It was a Toyota IFS torsion bar...my bad, same concept though, he used the stock mounting points/A-Arm/porkchop thing to attach to his sway bar.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=509819
I figured I would share my uber cheap (I have $40 into this thing) swaybar, in case anyone wants to build one for their ride.

I started with a torsion bar from an IFS yota (courtesy Bender's recent SAS :D ).

You will also need to get the splined ends for the torsion bar, there is a cast iron end that bolts up to the upper A arm, and a steel tubular piece on the frame mounted end. I chopped them both down so all that was really left was the sections with the splines. The cast iron part it was easier to cut it into a square (I'll post pics tomorrow), plus I figured it would mechanically lock it in there so the welds would be less likely to fail.

For the frame mounts, rob the factory swaybar mounts from the same toy you are stealing the torsion bar from. They bolt up easily and the factory rubber bushings fit the torsion bar perfectly. I will likely be upgrading to poly bushings for these since Bender's 200,000 mile bushings have seen better days, but they will work for now.

-Redd
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the info. upon further inspection the s10 torsion bars will be too long. I have a ranger body on a shoebox bronco frame so it has to be pretty narrow. i will look into other possible options (toyota etc.) and let you know what I come up with
 
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