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i dont have any experience with this subject except what is on this BB, but i was wondering if people take into account their pinion angle when shaving(as in take a little more off the cover too), or if everyone just cuts it straight across like at 0 degree pinion angle???


- Jake
 

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JeeperJake said:
i dont have any experience with this subject except what is on this BB, but i was wondering if people take into account their pinion angle when shaving(as in take a little more off the cover too), or if everyone just cuts it straight across like at 0 degree pinion angle???


- Jake
I cut the lip off of the bottom on mine at the angle that I needed(pinion is raised about 16º)...however, if you cut and plate the bottom and do so at a weird angle, you may not be able to get the carrier out. Make sure the opening is still large enough.
 

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do you guys think that the bottom of the axle is durable after yall do that? seems like if you hit a rock it might fawk it up.
 

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I think 1/2 inch plate will be durable enough. My toyota housing has been drug over a ton of rocks, and it holds up fine. I think it is about 3/16 thick.
 

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Hello Govna
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pretty sure 1/2" plate decently welded will work fine.:D
 

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I know, old topic.

I just did mine this week, did not cut and plate, just sawzalled and ground. I left the bottommost bolt hole and trimmed the cover and diffguard to match. I got the 5/8" out of it (the difference between a stock D60 and a stock 14 bolt), also removed that damned lip.
 

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How many shaved diffs are daily driven? and hows the bearing life?
I have about 25K miles on the shaved 14BFF in my Burb. No problems with housing distortion or bering failure and it's driven daily. I cut the bottom to the lowest bolt hole and didn't do any reinforcement.

Eric M.
 

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I have done 2 now,both I just cut the lip off and ground them SMOOTH.The one I am building now(2nd one) I did think about cutting and plateing.But just not sure if it is worth it.
 

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What about using one of those steal max cutting blades in a circular saw like halogrinder used to cut 1/2" plate for his cheap truck challenge over in the ford section.
 

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I used a 7 1/4" wormdrive with a steel cutting carbide tipped blade.We use these at work.(sheetmetal/roofing).They work great.They are expensive though.I used it to cut the lip off with three cuts.Then used a 7" grinder to smooth it out.
 

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I did mine with an abrasive wheel in my 7 1/4" circular saw and ground from there. I took 2 1/2" off and added a 1/2" plate back in. I had to shave the ring gear on a lathe with an angle grinder about 3/8" to clear the plate. I preheated, welded it with a high nickle rod, post heated, and wrapped it in insulation and let it cool. 6hr later it was still hot to the touch. It's not a daily driver but it seams to be holding up, no bearing failures yet:rolleyes: I have had some trouble getting the 1/2" plate to seal but mostly because I added two 1/4" bolts to the cover which doesn't leave much sealing surface.

I shaved my D60 the same way.
 

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THE VOICE OF REASON
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Here is my mess. 3/4" more ground clearnace than a stock dana 60






 
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