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I'm a cheap bastard. I cut a big ass hole in the bottom of the spring hanger, and stuck the shackle through it. I was gonna weld on some reinforcement, but haven't got around to in in the 6-7 since I did the flip job. Works for me. I used a 4" grinder because it was what I had, and later cleaned out the corners a bit with a torch in a buddy's driveway.

Pete
 

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pcorssmit said:
I'm a cheap bastard. I cut a big ass hole in the bottom of the spring hanger, and stuck the shackle through it. I was gonna weld on some reinforcement, but haven't got around to in in the 6-7 since I did the flip job. Works for me. I used a 4" grinder because it was what I had, and later cleaned out the corners a bit with a torch in a buddy's driveway.

Pete
I have installed the ORD kit twice and it is a nice kit, but on my own rig, I'm with you. Cheap. Can't wait to ditch the blocks. Has anyone noticed if they move the axle forward in the fenderwell? I did one on a 67 and it did.
 

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Ok this is really easy, I cut the front hangers off a 3/4 ton Chevy (thats the front hanger on the rear end) and replaced the rear ones my Blazer when I put the 57" Ford springs on.

Once I get my cage done I am going to make new shackles for a little more lift to even it out from the added weight.
Not only simple but stout to boot.
 

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Most options I know have already been posted.

Not exactly a "flip" in the sense you mean but, just to throw another option out there...
http://www.springersuspensions.com/
Some don't like the "goofy shackles" or whatever name you want to call them, but, they do work very well from everything I've seen.

Another option can be found here
 

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Several guys on CK5 (including the guy who designed them, BorregoK5) are running them. Seems like they like them...
 

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If you take the stock spring hangers of a chevy make sure there not of a 1ton because they are narrower and closer to the frame. It will put the springs at a angle
 

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motorhead72k5 said:
Has anyone noticed if they move the axle forward in the fenderwell? I did one on a 67 and it did.
The axle on my '83 was centered in the fender well after my flip. However, I have seen several trucks where it moved forward, including my brother's '70 K5 (not too bad, though), and my buddy's '77 Power Wagon (pretty bad). If you have angled blocks that are angled at the top (as opposed to the bottom), the effect will be worse. The big factor is how high the rear end of the spring is compared to the front, stock vs. flipped, if they are level stock, the effect will be more than if the rear end is higher stock.

The pinion will need to be shimmed way down if using a non-CV driveshaft.

Personally, I'm not a fan of the "springer" setups, I've never been impressed with them on the trail. More of a "ramp-champ" setup IMO.

BTW, nice shackle angle in the pic posted above. That is one advantage to replacing/relocating the hangers, as opposed to the cheap/lazy method I used.

Pete
 

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I selected an ORD flip, for two reasons. It is very strong and I am not a fabricator, so it seemed like the best set-up for me. I installed them on the opposite sides they were designed for, and installed them back 2" from the original mounting location. I installed 57" Ford's on the truck and used a zero rate to compensate for the offset spring pin location (since the idea of drilling through the spring packs didn't appeal to me). I used the 1.5" offset which netted a total axle relocation of a .5" rearward. Definitely need to rotate my perches as it has affected my pinion angle. And I will probably need to flip my overloads in their original orientation because once the weight of the top and tools get back on there my truck probably won't sit level . However, I am very pleased with the set-up.

 

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motorhead72k5 said:


I have installed the ORD kit twice and it is a nice kit, but on my own rig, I'm with you. Cheap. Can't wait to ditch the blocks. Has anyone noticed if they move the axle forward in the fenderwell? I did one on a 67 and it did.
I did a 4" ORD flip on a '70 K5 and then used a ORD zero rate to move the axle back 1.5"s to center it in the fenderwell. This pointed the pinon at the TC, perfect for a CV rear driveshaft.
 

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When I did the flip and springs I put an add a leaf I had laying around in it too (the Ford springs are too soft imo). I have 6" springs in front and this set up was no where near 6" so I put 2 1/2" blocks in and milled the angle off the blocks so they were square. Now I need longer shocks.
 
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