TOTW: Ford EFI Swaps & Installs
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5.0 EFI from a 91 stang
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Most popular 5.0 years are the 89-92 Mustangs. in 93 they didn't put forged pistons any more. and in 88 they used Speed density instead of Mass Air Flow. Mass Air flow allows for more build up of the EFI motor.
As for wireing:
There are two plugs on the "motorsport" harness that need to be cut off and the wires spliced into the vehicle harness, one located near the computer (plug 39) and one near the master cylinder (plug 31).
The one near the master cylinder (brown) contains.......
red / light blue - "crank only"
white / purple - "crank only"
red / green - "crank & run"
white / red - "oil pressure gauge"
purple / pink - "water temp gauge"
tan / yellow - "tach trigger wire"
green / purple & purple / yellow - "neutral safety switch"
At this point they are self explanatory, except the "red/lt blue & white/purple" were spliced together and ran with the "red/green" to where the "old" distributor wires were cut. Remember those center two wires?
*****BEWARE*****
THESE Wires on my application DID NOT correspond !!!
( red / green did not go to, red / green. It went to, red / lt. blue, & the red / lt. blue, went to red /green.)
Just note the colors of the wires from top to bottom on the distributor plug. If they are the same as the 5.0 harness you are set. If not run the color of the third wire down on the old plug to the third wire down on the new plug and the same for the fourth wire down.
The plug you cut off near the computer (green) contains.......
white / red - not used
gray / yellow - "run only"
purple wire - to "AC" compressor clutch,
so it has power when the "AC" is on.
dark green / yellow - to fuel pump inertia switch,
then the other side of the switch to fuel pump positive(+).
pink / orange - speed sensor negative and to ground.
green / black - speed sensor positive(+)
pink / green - check engine light.
then the other side of the light to "crank and run" power source.
These are also self explanatory except the gray/yellow "run only" It can easily be ran to the ignition switch. On my application there was a large yellow/Gray wire running from the ignition switch than went through the firewall then to nowhere. I also found that the speed sensor has its own harness and the plug is located near the master cylinder. It was used for the cruise control only on my application, so I hooked it in there.
There is also a harness for the O2 sensors that will plug right in to the main harness and the sensors also plug right in. I did however need to add to it, so it would be long enough.
There is not that much involved. I had little experience with electrical work prior to this undertaking. You will however need to double check everything twice before you solder it all together.
As for wireing:
There are two plugs on the "motorsport" harness that need to be cut off and the wires spliced into the vehicle harness, one located near the computer (plug 39) and one near the master cylinder (plug 31).
The one near the master cylinder (brown) contains.......
red / light blue - "crank only"
white / purple - "crank only"
red / green - "crank & run"
white / red - "oil pressure gauge"
purple / pink - "water temp gauge"
tan / yellow - "tach trigger wire"
green / purple & purple / yellow - "neutral safety switch"
At this point they are self explanatory, except the "red/lt blue & white/purple" were spliced together and ran with the "red/green" to where the "old" distributor wires were cut. Remember those center two wires?
*****BEWARE*****
THESE Wires on my application DID NOT correspond !!!
( red / green did not go to, red / green. It went to, red / lt. blue, & the red / lt. blue, went to red /green.)
Just note the colors of the wires from top to bottom on the distributor plug. If they are the same as the 5.0 harness you are set. If not run the color of the third wire down on the old plug to the third wire down on the new plug and the same for the fourth wire down.
The plug you cut off near the computer (green) contains.......
white / red - not used
gray / yellow - "run only"
purple wire - to "AC" compressor clutch,
so it has power when the "AC" is on.
dark green / yellow - to fuel pump inertia switch,
then the other side of the switch to fuel pump positive(+).
pink / orange - speed sensor negative and to ground.
green / black - speed sensor positive(+)
pink / green - check engine light.
then the other side of the light to "crank and run" power source.
These are also self explanatory except the gray/yellow "run only" It can easily be ran to the ignition switch. On my application there was a large yellow/Gray wire running from the ignition switch than went through the firewall then to nowhere. I also found that the speed sensor has its own harness and the plug is located near the master cylinder. It was used for the cruise control only on my application, so I hooked it in there.
There is also a harness for the O2 sensors that will plug right in to the main harness and the sensors also plug right in. I did however need to add to it, so it would be long enough.
There is not that much involved. I had little experience with electrical work prior to this undertaking. You will however need to double check everything twice before you solder it all together.
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As for the best exhaust manifolds..... if you need one to exit straight back for clearance. Try a 70's 2wd F150 with a 302 and a C4 and they work great.
This is the one i used.
This is the one i used.
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The following is something i am in the process of doing a write up so errors might be there as the write up is not complete.
I am writing this to help others who were in my place at one point in time. I drove a ranger with a 2.9L V6 and it just didn’t have the power that I wanted. So I decided to swap in a 5.0L I’m going to discuss the basics of what I learned and some details left off of other write ups. I am going to talk about swaping in a 302 or a 351W. (note: I have only completed a 302 swap). From my understanding a 351W is not much different than a 302 except being a little wider, taller and heavier. A 351W weights 40lbs more than a 302. It has the same bore but ½”longer stroke. A stock Ford Ranger with a 302 an Automatic will weigh under 3000 lbs.
302 27-1/2 Inches 20-3/4 Inches 18-3/4 Inches
351W 27-1/2 Inches 23-3/4 Inches 21 Inches
Problem Areas:
Oil Pan
Motor Mounts
Exhaust
Gauges
Heater Box
Starter/Flywheel
Oil Pan
When installing a V8 within a Ford Ranger, BII or Explorer it is a must to obtain either a Rear Sump or a Dual sump Oil pan. Both oil pans contain an advantage. The rear sump holds 6 quarts of oil and was found in Full-size trucks and vans. The dual sump oil pan allows for a lower placement of the motor. (I’ve read ½” before) Dual sump pans can be found on mustangs, crown Victorias and Murcury Grand Marquis built in the 80’s and up to ’93 in most cases.
To find a Dual sump for a 351W you must obtain one from a Police package Crown Victoria built from 80-92. From Ford the 351W oil pan kit is $150 part # M-6675-A58
http://www.jamesduff.com/images/broncoII/v8/OILPAN.jpg
Picture of a dual sump oil pan
Motor Mounts
There are many different methods and types of motor mounts to be used in the V8 conversion. I’ve heard of using the stock V6 motor mounts again. The four cylinder mounts are hydraulically filled and therefore weaker than the solid rubber V6 mounts. If trying to use the stock motor mounts again you take a FLAT piace of metal and cut it as shown. I’ve never tried this but have been told it works.
I personally bought some mustang convertible motor mounts. There is a difference between convertible and non convertible mounts. As far as height and placement goes. I know of no differences. The convertible mounts have two interwoven straps separated and cushioned by rubber. So if the mount were to break the motor would not be free to move about as found with most motor mounts and the coupe mustang mounts. From the pictures and descriptions that I’ve seen both Advance Adapters and James duff use non-convertible motor mounts. What they do differently I don’t know but I will tell you I bought convertible motor mounts and used Advance adapters diagram and it place my motor perfectly.
http://www.jamesduff.com/images/broncoII/v8/MOTOMNT.jpg
picture of James duff motor mounts
Exhaust
There are many manufactures that offer headers for the Ford Ranger V8 swap conversions. I do not have any experience with any of them to give my opinion on them. So I will tell you what I did and I learned. I got some manifolds off a 70’s 2wd F150 with a 302 and a C4. The passenger side output is straight back and the driver’s side allows for the use of a hydraulic clutch. I understand that Maverick Manifolds are similar but I have found that trucks are easier to find than Mavricks. From my understanding there is a tight clearance on the drivers side between the manifold and the steering shaft. I moved my Gear box allowing for added clearance on the driver’s side.
Oil Filter
With the location of the Oil Filter on stock 302 and the placement in the engine compartment it forces the oil filter straight into the steering gear box. I used a gearbox off a 78 79 Ford F150 or Bronco and placed it outside of my frame rail allowing for a longer draglink and for more clearance. I never purchased a oil filter relocate kit but can be found for approximately $50. I’ve read that some oil filter adapter can not be used because they protrude straight out of the block. Advance adapters uses the perma-cool Brand.
Gauges
I was able to retain all of my stock gauges using the proper wire connections.
Starter/Flywheels
There are two different flywheels a 157 tooth 10.5” and a 164 tooth 11” flywheel. The 10.5” allows for better clearance with in the firewall. You have to have the proper bellhousing and starter to go with each flywheel. Also as a note All 351W had a 50 OZ imbalance weight. 302’s had an imbalance weight of 28 OZ up through 81. In 1982 Ford changed the name from 302 to 5.0 and changed the imbalance weight from 28 to 50 OZ. The 351W never changed. You can put the flywheel off of a 351W onto a 5.0 of the proper year.
Heater Box modifications
I believe on almost all 5.0 conversions it is imperative to notch the heater plenum. I personally used a Heater box off a NON-A/C BII which takes up a lot less space giving me the sufficient room to clear my engine and not having to notch the heater box. If wishing to retain your A/C then you will have to notch the box.
Cooling
Your Factory Radiator will not serve for the extra cubic inches. I personally bought a 4 row radiator for a 79 Jeep CJ-7 with a 304. My feeling is that a 304 is basiclly the same size as a 302 so the same radiator should work. I got a “heatbuster” (it had an extra core) from AutoZone for like $215. This radiator will fit between the frame rails without notching and will fit nicely up underneath the grill support as I did.
I am writing this to help others who were in my place at one point in time. I drove a ranger with a 2.9L V6 and it just didn’t have the power that I wanted. So I decided to swap in a 5.0L I’m going to discuss the basics of what I learned and some details left off of other write ups. I am going to talk about swaping in a 302 or a 351W. (note: I have only completed a 302 swap). From my understanding a 351W is not much different than a 302 except being a little wider, taller and heavier. A 351W weights 40lbs more than a 302. It has the same bore but ½”longer stroke. A stock Ford Ranger with a 302 an Automatic will weigh under 3000 lbs.
302 27-1/2 Inches 20-3/4 Inches 18-3/4 Inches
351W 27-1/2 Inches 23-3/4 Inches 21 Inches
Problem Areas:
Oil Pan
Motor Mounts
Exhaust
Gauges
Heater Box
Starter/Flywheel
Oil Pan
When installing a V8 within a Ford Ranger, BII or Explorer it is a must to obtain either a Rear Sump or a Dual sump Oil pan. Both oil pans contain an advantage. The rear sump holds 6 quarts of oil and was found in Full-size trucks and vans. The dual sump oil pan allows for a lower placement of the motor. (I’ve read ½” before) Dual sump pans can be found on mustangs, crown Victorias and Murcury Grand Marquis built in the 80’s and up to ’93 in most cases.
To find a Dual sump for a 351W you must obtain one from a Police package Crown Victoria built from 80-92. From Ford the 351W oil pan kit is $150 part # M-6675-A58
http://www.jamesduff.com/images/broncoII/v8/OILPAN.jpg
Picture of a dual sump oil pan
Motor Mounts
There are many different methods and types of motor mounts to be used in the V8 conversion. I’ve heard of using the stock V6 motor mounts again. The four cylinder mounts are hydraulically filled and therefore weaker than the solid rubber V6 mounts. If trying to use the stock motor mounts again you take a FLAT piace of metal and cut it as shown. I’ve never tried this but have been told it works.
I personally bought some mustang convertible motor mounts. There is a difference between convertible and non convertible mounts. As far as height and placement goes. I know of no differences. The convertible mounts have two interwoven straps separated and cushioned by rubber. So if the mount were to break the motor would not be free to move about as found with most motor mounts and the coupe mustang mounts. From the pictures and descriptions that I’ve seen both Advance Adapters and James duff use non-convertible motor mounts. What they do differently I don’t know but I will tell you I bought convertible motor mounts and used Advance adapters diagram and it place my motor perfectly.
http://www.jamesduff.com/images/broncoII/v8/MOTOMNT.jpg
picture of James duff motor mounts
Exhaust
There are many manufactures that offer headers for the Ford Ranger V8 swap conversions. I do not have any experience with any of them to give my opinion on them. So I will tell you what I did and I learned. I got some manifolds off a 70’s 2wd F150 with a 302 and a C4. The passenger side output is straight back and the driver’s side allows for the use of a hydraulic clutch. I understand that Maverick Manifolds are similar but I have found that trucks are easier to find than Mavricks. From my understanding there is a tight clearance on the drivers side between the manifold and the steering shaft. I moved my Gear box allowing for added clearance on the driver’s side.
Oil Filter
With the location of the Oil Filter on stock 302 and the placement in the engine compartment it forces the oil filter straight into the steering gear box. I used a gearbox off a 78 79 Ford F150 or Bronco and placed it outside of my frame rail allowing for a longer draglink and for more clearance. I never purchased a oil filter relocate kit but can be found for approximately $50. I’ve read that some oil filter adapter can not be used because they protrude straight out of the block. Advance adapters uses the perma-cool Brand.
Gauges
I was able to retain all of my stock gauges using the proper wire connections.
Starter/Flywheels
There are two different flywheels a 157 tooth 10.5” and a 164 tooth 11” flywheel. The 10.5” allows for better clearance with in the firewall. You have to have the proper bellhousing and starter to go with each flywheel. Also as a note All 351W had a 50 OZ imbalance weight. 302’s had an imbalance weight of 28 OZ up through 81. In 1982 Ford changed the name from 302 to 5.0 and changed the imbalance weight from 28 to 50 OZ. The 351W never changed. You can put the flywheel off of a 351W onto a 5.0 of the proper year.
Heater Box modifications
I believe on almost all 5.0 conversions it is imperative to notch the heater plenum. I personally used a Heater box off a NON-A/C BII which takes up a lot less space giving me the sufficient room to clear my engine and not having to notch the heater box. If wishing to retain your A/C then you will have to notch the box.
Cooling
Your Factory Radiator will not serve for the extra cubic inches. I personally bought a 4 row radiator for a 79 Jeep CJ-7 with a 304. My feeling is that a 304 is basiclly the same size as a 302 so the same radiator should work. I got a “heatbuster” (it had an extra core) from AutoZone for like $215. This radiator will fit between the frame rails without notching and will fit nicely up underneath the grill support as I did.
Worth repeating
This is a MUST for anyone thinking of swapping in a Ford EFI 5.0L.
Buy the Probst pamphlet "Multiport EFI Engine Management Harness" by calling Ford's Tech 'Hot Line' 810-468-1356 for only $5.
Then buy or barrow from the lybrary the Probst book and read it, a lot! "Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control : All Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Cars and Light Trucks 1988 to 1993" by Charles O. Probst. Only 28 dollars. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/A...9229428-7720961
Or a great second option and worth it's wieght in gold is the large and well documented Helms wire manual. $18.50 http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result....7PFM7WQBB7G44DD
And Mitchell wiring manual, from local library or Auto store.
Do not use the Haynes and Chilton books.
This is a MUST for anyone thinking of swapping in a Ford EFI 5.0L.
Buy the Probst pamphlet "Multiport EFI Engine Management Harness" by calling Ford's Tech 'Hot Line' 810-468-1356 for only $5.
Then buy or barrow from the lybrary the Probst book and read it, a lot! "Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control : All Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Cars and Light Trucks 1988 to 1993" by Charles O. Probst. Only 28 dollars. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/A...9229428-7720961
Or a great second option and worth it's wieght in gold is the large and well documented Helms wire manual. $18.50 http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result....7PFM7WQBB7G44DD
And Mitchell wiring manual, from local library or Auto store.
Do not use the Haynes and Chilton books.
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Fuel injected 302 with Trick Flow Track Heat heads (mildly ported), GT-40 intake (ported lower), 65mm throttle body, 76mm MAF, 24# injectors, Sanderson headers, built C4, EB Dana20 blah blah.. blah.. the usual stuff.
In a Samurai :flipoff2:
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I used a Painless Wiring harness btw.. super ass easy to work with.
In a Samurai :flipoff2:
I used a Painless Wiring harness btw.. super ass easy to work with.
You can put a upper end mustang from 88-93 EFI ontop of a old 302 super easy. www.coral.net is the best place there is for mustang efi stuff and info!! some people sell complete EFI kits on ebay from mustangs for 300-500 bucks.
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166 Posts
I personally drive weekly:
a 1985 ranger with a 1994 4.0.
A 1985 bronco 2 with a 1988 5.0
A 1988 bronco 2 with a 1995 351 punched to 392.
And have done hundreds of other conversions.... 5.0 in miatas, etc...
Adam
a 1985 ranger with a 1994 4.0.
A 1985 bronco 2 with a 1988 5.0
A 1988 bronco 2 with a 1995 351 punched to 392.
And have done hundreds of other conversions.... 5.0 in miatas, etc...
Adam
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The info on the 302 is backwards - The 302s started as 28oz and changed to 50oz with the 5.0 - I thought the cross over year was around 86-88 though.John Deere Ranger said:
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In the process of building and hopefully soon installing a 351w EFI - using an '83 block, trick flow roller cam, trickflow heads, trickflow intake. Should be fun!
Trying to find a '94 F250 distributor so I can run a remote mount TFI and it already has the gear needed for a roller cam.
Then I get to dive into the fun of re-wiring my rig from the dash forward
Trying to find a '94 F250 distributor so I can run a remote mount TFI and it already has the gear needed for a roller cam.
Then I get to dive into the fun of re-wiring my rig from the dash forward
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1,434 Posts
If you find a truck or lightening 351 EFI engine and want to fit it in most rigs, you'll need to change the upper intake - supposedly a GT40 upper will work.
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Not really. I have a stock 1995 351 intake, and I fit it in a BRONCO 2.
If that ain't tight, I don't know what is.
Adam
If that ain't tight, I don't know what is.
Adam
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I stand correctted on the imbalance info....... but the cross over year is right with 82-83injectedEB said:
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Ok, you got people from gen4x4
So how can I help? I was working in the EFI area at Ford Powertrain as an engineer from 1997-2000. I have swapped EFI into Fords WITHOUT using a motorsport or painless harness. I used a factory harness and moved stuff where I wanted it. If you need wiring info, I've probably got it. I can't help you hack your EEC4 ECM though. There's not too many cheap ways to do that.
So how can I help? I was working in the EFI area at Ford Powertrain as an engineer from 1997-2000. I have swapped EFI into Fords WITHOUT using a motorsport or painless harness. I used a factory harness and moved stuff where I wanted it. If you need wiring info, I've probably got it. I can't help you hack your EEC4 ECM though. There's not too many cheap ways to do that.
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