The following is something i am in the process of doing a write up so errors might be there as the write up is not complete.
I am writing this to help others who were in my place at one point in time. I drove a ranger with a 2.9L V6 and it just didn’t have the power that I wanted. So I decided to swap in a 5.0L I’m going to discuss the basics of what I learned and some details left off of other write ups. I am going to talk about swaping in a 302 or a 351W. (note: I have only completed a 302 swap). From my understanding a 351W is not much different than a 302 except being a little wider, taller and heavier. A 351W weights 40lbs more than a 302. It has the same bore but ½”longer stroke. A stock Ford Ranger with a 302 an Automatic will weigh under 3000 lbs.
302 27-1/2 Inches 20-3/4 Inches 18-3/4 Inches
351W 27-1/2 Inches 23-3/4 Inches 21 Inches
Problem Areas:
Oil Pan
Motor Mounts
Exhaust
Gauges
Heater Box
Starter/Flywheel
Oil Pan
When installing a V8 within a Ford Ranger, BII or Explorer it is a must to obtain either a Rear Sump or a Dual sump Oil pan. Both oil pans contain an advantage. The rear sump holds 6 quarts of oil and was found in Full-size trucks and vans. The dual sump oil pan allows for a lower placement of the motor. (I’ve read ½” before) Dual sump pans can be found on mustangs, crown Victorias and Murcury Grand Marquis built in the 80’s and up to ’93 in most cases.
To find a Dual sump for a 351W you must obtain one from a Police package Crown Victoria built from 80-92. From Ford the 351W oil pan kit is $150 part # M-6675-A58
http://www.jamesduff.com/images/broncoII/v8/OILPAN.jpg
Picture of a dual sump oil pan
Motor Mounts
There are many different methods and types of motor mounts to be used in the V8 conversion. I’ve heard of using the stock V6 motor mounts again. The four cylinder mounts are hydraulically filled and therefore weaker than the solid rubber V6 mounts. If trying to use the stock motor mounts again you take a FLAT piace of metal and cut it as shown. I’ve never tried this but have been told it works.
I personally bought some mustang convertible motor mounts. There is a difference between convertible and non convertible mounts. As far as height and placement goes. I know of no differences. The convertible mounts have two interwoven straps separated and cushioned by rubber. So if the mount were to break the motor would not be free to move about as found with most motor mounts and the coupe mustang mounts. From the pictures and descriptions that I’ve seen both Advance Adapters and James duff use non-convertible motor mounts. What they do differently I don’t know but I will tell you I bought convertible motor mounts and used Advance adapters diagram and it place my motor perfectly.
http://www.jamesduff.com/images/broncoII/v8/MOTOMNT.jpg
picture of James duff motor mounts
Exhaust
There are many manufactures that offer headers for the Ford Ranger V8 swap conversions. I do not have any experience with any of them to give my opinion on them. So I will tell you what I did and I learned. I got some manifolds off a 70’s 2wd F150 with a 302 and a C4. The passenger side output is straight back and the driver’s side allows for the use of a hydraulic clutch. I understand that Maverick Manifolds are similar but I have found that trucks are easier to find than Mavricks. From my understanding there is a tight clearance on the drivers side between the manifold and the steering shaft. I moved my Gear box allowing for added clearance on the driver’s side.
Oil Filter
With the location of the Oil Filter on stock 302 and the placement in the engine compartment it forces the oil filter straight into the steering gear box. I used a gearbox off a 78 79 Ford F150 or Bronco and placed it outside of my frame rail allowing for a longer draglink and for more clearance. I never purchased a oil filter relocate kit but can be found for approximately $50. I’ve read that some oil filter adapter can not be used because they protrude straight out of the block. Advance adapters uses the perma-cool Brand.
Gauges
I was able to retain all of my stock gauges using the proper wire connections.
Starter/Flywheels
There are two different flywheels a 157 tooth 10.5” and a 164 tooth 11” flywheel. The 10.5” allows for better clearance with in the firewall. You have to have the proper bellhousing and starter to go with each flywheel. Also as a note All 351W had a 50 OZ imbalance weight. 302’s had an imbalance weight of 28 OZ up through 81. In 1982 Ford changed the name from 302 to 5.0 and changed the imbalance weight from 28 to 50 OZ. The 351W never changed. You can put the flywheel off of a 351W onto a 5.0 of the proper year.
Heater Box modifications
I believe on almost all 5.0 conversions it is imperative to notch the heater plenum. I personally used a Heater box off a NON-A/C BII which takes up a lot less space giving me the sufficient room to clear my engine and not having to notch the heater box. If wishing to retain your A/C then you will have to notch the box.
Cooling
Your Factory Radiator will not serve for the extra cubic inches. I personally bought a 4 row radiator for a 79 Jeep CJ-7 with a 304. My feeling is that a 304 is basiclly the same size as a 302 so the same radiator should work. I got a “heatbuster” (it had an extra core) from AutoZone for like $215. This radiator will fit between the frame rails without notching and will fit nicely up underneath the grill support as I did.