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Ford Forum Moderator
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You saw it, steering upgrades... Whatever your Ford vehicle, let's hear your tips, tricks, & experiences...
 

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Poseur SUV
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I bought the Superlift SuperRunner steering kit for my Explorer. This is supposed to fix your steering geometry with the lift and reduce bump steer. I bought the steering kit at the same time as my lift thinking it was a good idea to do all the upgrades at the same time.

Last spring the Superlift steering broke due to extremely poor welds on a mounting bracket. There was probably less than 1 mm penetration. Thank god it broke at 0.05 mph on a trail and not on the freeway.

On top of the weld breaking, the tie rod ends were worn and the components are not serviceable or if they are you can't find out from Superlift what to use to service it. They want you to buy new parts but the steering is only sold as a complete kit.

I replaced the SuperRunner steering with the factory steering. Lo and behold there was no bump steer. Seems that the reason I had bought the SuperRunner steering in the first place was no reason at all. Bottom line stay away from the Superlift SuperRunner steering, it is a waste of money.
 

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We all can't forget the EB tie rod flip. Re-drill the tie rod holes from the top down, with the larger GM style tierod and you have a very cheap way of gaining high steer. If you compare the standard high steer arms to the tie rod flip, you only fall about 1.5" lower. But the cost is well under half, almost free if you can find a GM center link and have access to a lathe.
 

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GM tie rod over, raised track bar mount and POWER STEERING! I have a 67 bronco so it came with Armstrong. The GM stuff can be done reasonable through many sources; I personally bought everything to do it. Buying everything is more money but I can charge friends to do there's and recoup a bit of it :D
 

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For the EB's it would have to be P/S, I just finished this upgrade myself. There are a number of options available but some of the cheapest options are the Toyota and Nissan swap.

I used the Nissan swap and found it to be an easy swap for my situation. So far with limited testing I would have to give it a thumbs up.
 

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Paul Gagnon said:
I bought the Superlift SuperRunner steering kit for my Explorer. This is supposed to fix your steering geometry with the lift and reduce bump steer. I bought the steering kit at the same time as my lift thinking it was a good idea to do all the upgrades at the same time.

Last spring the Superlift steering broke due to extremely poor welds on a mounting bracket. There was probably less than 1 mm penetration. Thank god it broke at 0.05 mph on a trail and not on the freeway.

On top of the weld breaking, the tie rod ends were worn and the components are not serviceable or if they are you can't find out from Superlift what to use to service it. They want you to buy new parts but the steering is only sold as a complete kit.

I replaced the SuperRunner steering with the factory steering. Lo and behold there was no bump steer. Seems that the reason I had bought the SuperRunner steering in the first place was no reason at all. Bottom line stay away from the Superlift SuperRunner steering, it is a waste of money.
I have a Super Steering kit also and can say its a great idea poorly executed.
I was suspicious of the bracket you mentioned (and Superlift in general) and welded some reinforcement to it and the idler arm.
With the 15" (with future plans to possibly go 20" on a new project toy) flex on the TTB the short driverside tierod pulls the tire toe-in more than I like. The steering kit helps a lot with this.
Its not needed on a standard 4" lift, though.

When you say not servicable, they arent replaceable/greaseable?
Maybe they changed the design? Mine had replacable outer TREs, the inner ones are links not much different than a stock driverside tierod is (but longer). I think these are taken from a stock app somewhere (the challenge I think will be finding which one, though). All have zerks for a grease gun.
 

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ok guys, you're getting the idea... but give us details... anything you know about your swap, what parts you used, what kit if any you used, what problems you found... tell us what you know, don't just touch on the surface of what you did. Give details like I'm a newbie that doesn't know anything about the subject.

Thanks.
 

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Of all the steering upgrades this has yeiled the most improvement. Not hard to do at all. The EB Rock Ram install article from Fourwheeler really helped. Only part I had to fab was the tie rod bracket. I know the Rubicon will find any of my weaknesses. Can't wait!!
 

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4x4junkie said:

I have a Super Steering kit also and can say its a great idea poorly executed.
I was suspicious of the bracket you mentioned (and Superlift in general) and welded some reinforcement to it and the idler arm.
With the 15" (with future plans to possibly go 20" on a new project toy) flex on the TTB the short driverside tierod pulls the tire toe-in more than I like. The steering kit helps a lot with this.
Its not needed on a standard 4" lift, though.

When you say not servicable, they arent replaceable/greaseable?
Maybe they changed the design? Mine had replacable outer TREs, the inner ones are links not much different than a stock driverside tierod is (but longer). I think these are taken from a stock app somewhere (the challenge I think will be finding which one, though). All have zerks for a grease gun.
The outer tie rod ends are replacable but the rest isn't. As far as grease nipples yes they are there but some of them are in a position that makes it impossible to replace and prone to breakage. Also the urethane bushings in the idler arm wear out and as far as I could find out they are not available separately. I will try and take some pictures tomorrow.
 

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I did a 2.5" Hydraulic ram, with a Danfoss orbital valve OSPC-200, and retained my stock pump, although I did modify it a bit.
Ordered the ram from Baileys.com it was a Cheif welded cylinder with 8" travel. Got the Orbital from M&M Forklift in Phoenix, made up my own hoses, which are all the same length.
I mounted the orbital valve where the old PS box used to be.
I followed the pump mods outlined by West Texas Offroad (Shim removal and opening up the valve assy.

Works good enough to break my 60 knuckle....
 

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Great ideas on the early bronco steering mods. But I think there is an order to which mods to do first.

first would be to go with power steering pump mod
then go with power steering box mods like AGR ram
after that I would look at the steering linkage changes.
This will save you unwanted purchases of parts.
 

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i recently had my ram assist swapped out for 78-79 power steering on my 77F250 hiboy. i found some articles online. anyway i recently had to go through an inspection and thank goodness the dude was cool. he's a real ford guy and when he saw what we did he said we took too much off the top of the frame where the lip is. has anyone else done this? if so what were your experiences?
 

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Hobe said:
For the EB's it would have to be P/S, I just finished this upgrade myself. There are a number of options available but some of the cheapest options are the Toyota and Nissan swap.

I used the Nissan swap and found it to be an easy swap for my situation. So far with limited testing I would have to give it a thumbs up.
What vehicles is the steering stuff robbed from?
 

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Last weekend, I picked up a sag pump and brackets off an older ford van. I don't know the year. They seemed to be somewhat plentiful in the pick-n-pull, but most had been taken already. If I had to guess, I would say 70's. Cost me a grand total of $16.25.

The pump I got with the brackets didn't seem to be in the best shape, so I thought I'd grab a really nice one off a cheby.......well, I found out the mounting points are different between the ford pump and the cheby pump. It didn't fit the bracket.

The motor I got my pump and brackets off had a york mounted above the pump. So I grabbed that braket too. In stock configuration, the york was standing upright, which won't clear my hood, but here is a chance I can lay it on it's side. If anyone is interested, I can get pics of the brackets tomorrow after work.

Lets not forget about the mod you can do to the sag pumps to boost pressure. I look forward to trying it out.

http://www.off-road.com/~jweed/pwrstr.htm
 

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I made my selft high steer useing 4130 chromoly steel shafts, heavy duty heims, and grade 8 bolts. I drilled out the nuckles and used the heims instead of tie rod ends. I also had the chromoly shafts heat treated so that they could deflect up to 10 degrees and bounce back. I changed over to the F-150 box and I am using the stock pump for my 5.0L.
 

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went to high steer, machined the kuckle and fabed a high steer arm fliped the tie rod on top of the knucles useing ball joints from a f650, used 1.5" .250 wall 4130 chromoly on all links, 4" skyjacker drop pitmin arm. and a raised track bar
 

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Sswitched over to saginaw pump. i have a 78 f250 w/ 400. got the brackets and everything i needed off a 79 ltd. a lot of the late 70s cars had the saginaw. the brackets are easier to find than looking for a truck with them. the pump id from a van something liek 77 or so. i went thru a bunch of books and just picked out the pump i wanted and bought it. if you use the ltd brackets and maybe others that only mount from the front you'll have to put bolts in the back where other brackets mount. other than that it is great. oh, i had to make my own fitting to convert from the sag style pressure port to my pressure line. im using a pressure line off i think a mid 70 truck with the ford slipper style pump. i love it cause it dont make no noise now. and it turns easier. getting ready to do hydro assist so ill update with more when i get that done.
 

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Atomic Test Lab Rat
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for those of us who want high steer on our d44's. i used chevy flat top knuckles with chevy small bearing spindles and ford f150 hub rotor assembly( for the 5x5.5 pattern to match my rear 9".) the chevy knuckle is supposed to be stronger then ford flat top hence why i used the chevy one and not a regular ford flat top.
 
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