Pirate 4x4 banner

61 - 80 of 182 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #61
So here is a little bit of really basic tech for the Dodge guys. If you need to replace your blower motor on a first gen you will find the motor is readily available (PM256) but no parts stores sell it with the wheel. you can reuse the wheel, but not if it is cracked or missing fins (like mine). That being said, the replacement wheel is now discontinued. However, I have found that Murray part number BW9334 is a very similar wheel that is able to be interchanged, it just has a metal push on retainer instead of a barrel clip like the old one.

Here are side by side comparisons of old vs. new.
IMG_0902.jpg
IMG_0903.jpg
IMG_0906.jpg
 

·
Get Off My Lawn
Joined
·
13,255 Posts
I really dig your truck. I had one just like it for my first truck. I bought it from my school district in high school. Really great trucks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
I also have a Hiniker straight blade plow that I wanted to install on this truck. I found a brand new mount at a local dealer who took my two old mounts on trade and let me have the brand new one for $70. I installed all of my existing truck side harnesses, the mount, and my advisory light over the course of a couple days. I love this Hiniker plow and have had virtually no issues with it. The only problem I had to take care of before using it this winter was the 10 pin control wire plug. The original one is a Hiniker proprietary molded plug that only they sell. I needed to replace truck and plow side as they were both badly corroded. The problem was that Hiniker wanted $100+ for the pair and they only came as a molded connector with pigtails. That being said, I used the schematics to make a pinout sheet and replaced the 10 pins with 12 pin Deutsch connectors for about $15. Pinout is attached in case anyone else has a similar issue.

Brand new mount (we got about 1" of snow the day I picked it up)
IMG_0799.jpg

Advisory light on
IMG_0757.jpg

Plow frame on
IMG_0802.jpg

Plow hooked to the new frame on the truck
IMG_0851.jpg

Pinout sheet for Hiniker 10 pin plow connectors.
IMG_1933.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #65
The last thing I think I will need to do for a while is add in some auxiliary reverse lights. I frenched them into the bumper. While I was in there I chose to replace one of the license plate lights with the trailer connector as I was worried about snapping it off if I backed into a snowbank. I have already replaced the license plate lights with LEDs so the one is more than bright enough.

In process
IMG_0833.jpg

finished product
IMG_0846.jpg

View when standing next to the truck
IMG_0840.jpg

View when standing in the bed looking back
IMG_0838.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #67
I think your plow lights are too low.
Not sure if that's sarcastic or not, but the headlight risers are of my own design. They sit about 3" or 4" higher than stock but are adjustable with a pin and set screw so you can put them back down to where stock would be. The reason I did this is because I drive with the plow up and angled all the way to the left. This helps with airflow and will also push me towards the ditch should oncoming traffic veer into my lane during adverse conditions. With the plow angled like that the moldboard actually sits in the path of the headlights if they are in their stock location, and the reflection would blind the shit out of me. The little bit of extra height puts the headlights above the moldboard and gives me better visibility all around.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #71
I've been traveling for work a bunch lately so haven't been posting any updates. Here's the last month's worth.

I put 4 new shocks on and was very surprised with the change in ride quality. I used Monroe Gas-Magnums in the rear and Max-Airs in the front. The truck has plenty of leaves in the rear so load capacity back there isn't an issue. However, it would bow quite a bit with the plow on so that is the reason for the airshocks up front. They work perfectly.
IMG_0991.jpg

The vacuum actuator for the CAD Dana 44 had been junk for a long time so I installed a Posi-Lok manual actuator. I was very impressed with the quality of the kit and would recommend it for someone who wants to make their front axle actuation system more reliable but doesn't want to invest a lot of time.

Actuator cable
IMG_0995.jpg

Running cable
IMG_0996.jpg

Removing fork from old CAD housing
IMG_0997.jpg

Installing fork and sensor into new CAD housing that comes with the kit
IMG_1001.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #72 (Edited)
I built a wooden hold down system for a set of five 100lb tractor weights to be used as ballast behind the rear axle. Hiniker's plow install manual calls for 500lbs in that location so that is the reasoning. With that added the traction in 2wd with the plow on is night and day, as you would expect.

building/painting the frame
IMG_1022.jpg

IMG_1023.jpg

Frame/weights installed in the truck. I added a load bar over the top of the whole thing so that nothing comes loose when I take it off some sick jumps :D

IMG_1025.jpg

IMG_1026.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #73
I picked up a 2 place tilt snowmobile trailer for cheap the other day. It has salt shields on the front and the two beds tilt independently of each other, which is pretty trick. It's fairly old, but in relatively good shape. I'll need to do a few things to it before taking it on a long trip, though.

IMG_1080.jpg

IMG_1082.jpg

I rebuilt the jack- which entailed welding the threaded, pressed in insert for the crank into the body as it had pulled out, replacing a bearing in the top of the crank, painting, and reinstalling. I also removed all the scotch locks from the harness, respliced with heat shrink connections, and inspected the bearings on both sides. I found that it needs new bearings; but all the tires, to include the spare, were replaced recently.
IMG_1084.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #75
Finally finished the bearing install on the new trailer. It took a little bit to find the right parts as these are Dexter EZ-lube spindles (common) but are pre-2002 (not so common) thus the parts are a little bit harder to come across.

The bearings and caps were easy as Fleet Farm had those in stock. However, these older spindles used a smaller ID grease seal and a tang washer instead of a cotter pin. I was able to find the tang washer on line, but the grease seal was a different story. I had to go to a trailer dealer and match them up out of their supply of seals. All in all it wasn't terribly hard to get the parts, just a mild inconvenience. I bought two extras of everything so I can keep one set at my shop and the other I put in a waterproof canister and secured to the spare tire for an emergency.
IMG_1272.jpg

Since I had both wheels and tires off I painted up the wheels to get ahead of the rust.
IMG_1274.jpg

With that done I tossed the sled on and took her for a shakedown run. During the trip I found that one marker light lens was cracked as was the right rear tail light lens.

IMG_1280.jpg

IMG_1279.jpg

IMG_1276.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #76
After finding the cracked light lenses the other night I decided to go ahead and replace all the lighting with LED units. This should be the last bit of business on this trailer until summer when I replace the deck. The deck that is on the trailer currently is a little bit soft in a couple spots but not bad enough to tear off yet.

In process
IMG_1294.jpg

Done
IMG_1295.jpg

IMG_1297.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #77
This past weekend I made a trip to the salvage yard (as I usually do) where I happened to find a set of arms for my lift which was a total score. I paid by the pound for them.

IMG_1424.jpg

IMG_1430.jpg

I also puttered around on the truck doing a few odds and ends. I replaced the floor mats, adjusted the steering box, tightened the power steering pump, and converted the dash lights to LED.

IMG_1446.jpg

IMG_1448.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #78 (Edited)
I missed this when looking back through my pictures but a few weeks ago I found a wet fuel line near the tank when I was under the the truck. I ended up replacing all the fuel lines for good measure because of it. I was lucky to catch it before there was any significant leakage as this area is directly over the exhaust.

The return is 1/4" and I had that in stock in steel so I just used what I had. The feed was 5/16", which i didn't have in stock. As it happened the parts store was out of 5/16" in steel as well so I bought some copper nickel line. This was my first experience with it and I can honestly say I will never be using steel again. The additional price is easily justifiable solely based on how much easier the copper nickel is to work with. When you factor in the fact that is won't corrode it makes it a no brainer.

The truck originally had three lines: one feed, one return, and one vent. I replaced everything except the vent, as the charcoal filter under the hood was junk. I instead used a small engine fuel filter where the vent originally transitioned into hard line. This saved a bunch of time bending an extra line and actually stopped the tank from spitting gas out while filling (it used to spit a little bit out right as the pump would stop if you weren't paying attention)

Leaking line (the hose is cut because I had started on removal before I thought to take pictures)
IMG_0939.jpg

Original lines
IMG_0945.jpg

New return
IMG_0948.jpg

I didn't take any pictures of the new supply line as I was running short on time. Once I had the new lines installed I undercoated everything generously.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #79
Remember when I said I was stashing the plow behind my shop for later? Well it's later! I just pulled the fishing club's new truck into the shop to start making a push frame to adapt the old plow to the new cat eye Chevy.

The original frame that was on my 85 was well engineered and I was hoping I could reuse it. However, this will not be the case. When I mocked the original frame up to the new truck I realized that the frame mounting tabs would put the whole assembly much too low and would rob all available ground clearance. The frame mounts are also spaced far enough apart that they would impede the travel of the lower control arm. That being said, it will be more work to revamp the original frame that to just start over.

The club has another truck that is also a cat eye as well. They had a frame install done on it by a local shop about 2 years ago when they bought the truck. I plan to use some of the design cues from that frame as well as that of a shop from MN I found online.

The original frame utilized a Western conventional pump/valve/lift cylinder which was quite weak. I will be using a standalone hydraulic power unit and cylinder like in the pictures below.

Tearing the plow wiring out of the new truck (it had a Western Ultramount installed on it previous to them picking it up)
IMG_1441.jpg

Old frame mocked up. Note this would only leave them with approximately 8" of ground clearance, plus the lower control arms would contact the mount at full droop.
IMG_1437.jpg

Online plow frame I found. I like this mount as it is easily removable should the club need to move on from this truck.
IMG_1443.JPG

IMG_1444.jpg

IMG_1445.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,364 Posts
Bright as hell instrument panel lights will actually cut how well you can see with the headlamps by a very noticeable amount.
 
61 - 80 of 182 Posts
Top