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Love seeing an old truck like this still being used like made to. I wish all these guys that complain about their 400hp\800ft.lb diesel being too slow while towing could get a chance behind the wheel of a good condition older truck with a load behind it and appreciate it for what it is and get new appreciation for their trucks capability lol.
 

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There was a time when "winterizing" your car meant taking the doors off. So you could get out fast if it started to go through the ice. Not much fun at -40, but no worse than an open sleigh or (later) a snowmobile.

There was also a custom of parking a junk car on the ice in the spring. Somebody, usually one of the service clubs, would run a pool on when it would disappear. Probably frowned on in these environmentally conscious times.
 

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There was a time when "winterizing" your car meant taking the doors off. So you could get out fast if it started to go through the ice. Not much fun at -40, but no worse than an open sleigh or (later) a snowmobile.

There was also a custom of parking a junk car on the ice in the spring. Somebody, usually one of the service clubs, would run a pool on when it would disappear. Probably frowned on in these environmentally conscious times.
My kids love riding on the ice since they dont have to be in car seats/seatbelts :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #127 (Edited)
I've been working out the truck and trailer a little bit more now that the weather is getting nice. Last week I got it out to move a Rendezvous for a buddy and ended up getting a flat on the trailer from a nail.

PRO TIP- when the jack you keep in the truck for changing tires takes a shit while jacking up the trailer you can take the pipe-style jack off the tongue of the trailer and use it to jack the trailer up without even getting under it, by jamming it under the rub rail. I wouldn't recommend reaching under it in this configuration though.... I think I will build an adapter that will capture one of the stake pockets with the proper mount for the jack on it so I can more safely do this in the future.

I also hauled a well-picked over parts truck, a Ram D250, that I had sold to the same buddy, to the junk yard. Winging the trailer in behind his garage and around the trees was a little bit of a challenge, but totally doable. If you've been paying close attention you'll notice that the trailer was missing the dust caps on the driver side. One came flying off just going down the road (my fault, I must not have tapped it in fully) and the other one I pulled off and ruined trying to make the wrong size dust cap work. However, I had a spark of genius and found that 1989 Ram D250 dust caps are the same size as those on my trailer's hubs. With this I avoided spending $30+ on the right caps.

Rendezvous on the trailer. We had also stacked 40 or so sheets of tin under the car on the trailer so it was a HEAVY load.
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Easiest (sketchiest) way to change a tire on a trailer
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Backed in
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Loaded and ready to roll
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Dust caps swapped
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Discussion Starter #128
As part of hauling all of this stuff I had horse traded for a set of Goodyear Duratracs (265-75 16) that are pretty much new and a set of 16' 8 lug chrome second gen wheels with junk tires. As soon as i finished all of this up I got back to the shop, dismounted the junk tires, cleaned up the wheels, popped some new valve stems in, and mounted up the Duratracs. They look SWEET! I think the chrome wheels and more aggressive tires really work well on the truck and for not really shelling out any money I think they're perfect. I've also had Duratracs on multiple vehicles and absolutely love the performance I've gotten out of them, so all around I'm happy.

Mounting
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After washing up the tires and the truck
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So after all this care for the truck the cheap chinese HEI module in the distributor conversion I did decided to take a dump. I swapped it out with an Accel performance HEI module and she runs better than ever. The wiring job isn't super pretty but with the space I had available it was the best I could do.
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Discussion Starter #129
This morning on the way to work I picked up a piece of metal in my brand new left front tire! :mad3::mad3::mad3: The day had started out nice, I had even stopped to take a picture of the truck on the way because it was such a beautiful morning. I have a rope plug in for now but will repair it properly tonight. This is a little frustrating considering I mounted these around 72 hours ago!

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This plug kit has saved my butt more times than I'd care to count. As you can see, it's the best $15 I have ever spent.
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The culprit. They are demoing an old building near work so I am guessing this is part of something that fell out of a dump truck transporting debris from the site
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Plugged!
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Love seeing an old truck like this still being used like made to. I wish all these guys that complain about their 400hp\800ft.lb diesel being too slow while towing could get a chance behind the wheel of a good condition older truck with a load behind it and appreciate it for what it is and get new appreciation for their trucks capability lol.
No kidding, my first truck was a 78 D150 with a 318/auto and 3.21 gears. It sucked to tow with, but got the job done never the less. It makes my "low" output 350/650 Cummins seem incredibly high output.

Keep on with it OP, that's a damn good looking truck in green.
Travis..
 

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Discussion Starter #131 (Edited)
No kidding, my first truck was a 78 D150 with a 318/auto and 3.21 gears. It sucked to tow with, but got the job done never the less. It makes my "low" output 350/650 Cummins seem incredibly high output.

Keep on with it OP, that's a damn good looking truck in green.
Travis..
Thanks man! I love keeping this truck on the road. It's no speed demon but it gets me where I need to go and looks good doing it!

Whenever I'm in a hurry to get somewhere I just take my 6.7 anyways :flipoff2:
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Discussion Starter #132 (Edited)
I've been incredibly busy with work and life again so I haven't been doing a whole lot to the truck and trailer but I have been doing plenty with them.

The day I mounted up my newly fixed tire it snowed so I tested out the repair that way
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After this I moved a buddy's XJ to scrap. I brought the tires/wheels from it back to his house and when I went to start the truck to leave the starter was toast! fortunately the local parts house had one in stock so him and I threw that bad boy into the truck in about 20 minutes in the snowy, muddy, windy driveway. It was a joy, huge props to whitneyj for helping me out with that! If he hadn't I wouldn't have been able to use the truck and trailer that night to run and pick up a G300 for a different friend.

XJ loaded
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GS loaded
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I also had to runt the lawn mower down to the self wash to hose the many pounds of mud off after I buried it in the back field at my shop dumping clippings
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Discussion Starter #133 (Edited)
One odd thing that I now need to address is the starter circuit. When the starter was going out I believe that it was drawing more amperage than normal through the exciter wire at the starter relay. Once I installed the new starter the relay smoked out the next day. With work I've really only been in town on weekends so I didn't have time to rip the harness apart and swap out the harness and relay, but the place where the failure occurred just happened to be the parking lot of a junkyard that has an identical truck. For the long term fix I scavenged a replacement relay and harness (to the tune of $5) but for the short term I rigged a momentary toggle to the exciter wire since I was short on time. I tossed the toggle in the ash tray so it's out of sight, can't be bumped by accident, and I can just replace the ash tray when I fix it right.

When I harvested the new relay and harness I compared it to a newer truck and found the newer one used a waterproof Bosch relay instead of this stamped steel one. Has anyone had issues with these old relays? Does anyone have anything good to say about them? I grabbed the original style relay and harness in the heat of the moment but now I can't really think of a reason to install it as opposed to upgrading to a newer Bosch sealed relay with waterproof base. Any thoughts? The wiring will be really easy, all I should need to do is supply fused standby power from the battery, supply ground, pull the start signal from the key to latch the relay, and send signal from 87 to the ignition system and the starter exciter wire with a diode on the exciter wire to protect it from backfeed when the key is in the "run" position.

Pulling the harness and relay
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Temporary fix
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Cracked jacket of power supply wire on original style harness (possible high resistance point)
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Schematic
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Discussion Starter #134 (Edited)
Updates! I've been getting my use out of the old girl lately. I picked up a Decked storage box for the bed, which will be a nice alternative to the cap in winter. I also used her to take a couple loads of branches from the shop to the dump from trimming a couple tress in back of the shop.

Decked box installed
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Before
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After- my plan is to restructure the parking situation back here so everything is a little less cluttered.
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Dirty mower
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There is nothing wrong with either style starting circuit, they are basically the same, just the relay is changed. If you are getting resistance, check for voltage drop, check all the connections, replace any suspect wires and make sure the grounds are in place. At the minimum there should be the main ground cable from the battery to the engine block, the smaller, usually 10Ga, wire from the ground on the battery to the core support and another ground from the back of the intake to the firewall. Also pay particular attention to the fusible links and any repairs that have been made there over the years. The biggest improvement you can make is using the '88-'93 starter which is a huge leap over the old Chrysler gear reduction starters.
 

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Discussion Starter #137
There is nothing wrong with either style starting circuit, they are basically the same, just the relay is changed. If you are getting resistance, check for voltage drop, check all the connections, replace any suspect wires and make sure the grounds are in place. At the minimum there should be the main ground cable from the battery to the engine block, the smaller, usually 10Ga, wire from the ground on the battery to the core support and another ground from the back of the intake to the firewall. Also pay particular attention to the fusible links and any repairs that have been made there over the years. The biggest improvement you can make is using the '88-'93 starter which is a huge leap over the old Chrysler gear reduction starters.
I'm not all that worried about the circuit itself, I'm building a new harness to replace all of it based off of what I pulled from the junkyard truck. All I was curious about was is anyone has seen better reliability out of the newer style relay or the old one. With the new one being sealed better and a more universally available piece I believe I will use that. I've been crazy busy with work so I haven't had a chance to rip the harness out and replace it. She still has the ash tray toggle, which actually makes a great theft deterrent, whoops
 

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Discussion Starter #138
A couple more updates! I've been using the truck as much as possible and even with the little quirks shes still been damn reliable. The alternator shit out pulling a woodchipper home to chip up debris from a fallen tree but she still made it home before the battery was totally dead! I tossed an alternator and voltage regulator in for good measure and shes been trouble free since. I also just pulled a blown up Subie in to scrap for the SIL. I love this truck.

Pulling the uncle's dump trailer to get rid of the big limbs from the aforementioned tree
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Busted the trailer out to scrap the SIL's Subaru
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I used the winch setup from earlier to load the car up. By myself I was still able to have the thing loaded, strapped, and ready to roll in under 20 mins. That 5k HF Badlands winch doesn't owe me a thing, it's been super reliable and saved my ass more than a few times.
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And if you remember the lift I picked up a while back and had started working on: it's finished and working well! Right now our 35 is up on it while we get the car driving again.
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Discussion Starter #140
That Subaru doesn't look all that bad from this side from a distance.

Why did it go to scrap?
She ran it out of oil and seized the engine. It was really rough and also needed brake rotors, calipers, 2 wheel bearings, and a bunch of other miscellaneous work that made the juice not worth the squeeze. The whole thing was stupid rusty too, to the point of having structural issues (thanks Wisco). A good friend of mine is a Subaru Master Tech so we definitely pursued all options. I thought about buying to off her to flip with my buddy but I just don't have the time.
 
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