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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Where is the best place to get these parts now that Keith is no longer selling them?
Mainly just need axles and drive flanges.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I actually ended up selling the truck, I got offered much about double what I had into it in parts and i really would have never gotten that if I tryed to sell it. Remember the front end was smashed, had a nasty parasitic draw that I couldn't nail down, wiper wiring melted, just lots of little shit.

I picked up another 95 d1 manual for 1100 bucks that has a minor leak from the front cover, other than that it's a nice truck!

I origninally was going to swap fzj80 axles but I'm having a hard time finding them so I started looking into toy conversion, but now I'm thinking fzj axles are a much better bet. Just need to find some!

Plans for this truck are similar to the last but it will be on 37s, 5" rte springs, most likely 3 or 4 linked, and half tube fenders. It will be nice to start with a clean slate and do it right this time.
 

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Moser made the shafts and longfield made the cv's. Just sewer cap the housings to clear the larger ring gear and have a machine shop bore the stubs and swivels. Let me know if you go this route. I'll gladly pull shit and send pics and measurements if it helps.
 

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Moser made the shafts and longfield made the cv's. Just sewer cap the housings to clear the larger ring gear and have a machine shop bore the stubs and swivels. Let me know if you go this route. I'll gladly pull shit and send pics and measurements if it helps.
Umm... toyota 8'' diffs - which most were swapping in - have a 0.5'' smaller ring gear than a rover.
 

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Umm... toyota 8'' diffs - which most were swapping in - have a 0.5'' smaller ring gear than a rover.
All else being equal, hypoid bevel gears are stronger than spiral bevel gears. <edit> At the cost of efficiency <end edit>

What would be interesting is a comparison of strength between toyota 8" hypoid gears, and the uprated spiral bevels from Ashcroft and GBR, which have larger/stronger teeth, as well as reverse cut for front applications.

[edit2] Sorry just realised that you were commenting on the size implied in another, and nothing to do with what I first assumed. My bad!
 

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Sorry. You're correct on the ring being a larger diameter. I should have said it helps to sewer cap it so you can access the inside of the housing to change the bolts out to fit the toy size and pattern.

My offer still stand if you need any pics or measurements.
 

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I think two of the original Rover studs are re-used on the third, and the rest have to be knocked out, plug welded, and then a new series of 5/16-24 bolts welded into holes drilled out for the Toy pattern. I believe you need to make two notches for the ring gear, and a third notch if you're running the E-Locker setup.

I have one of the old templates from RT laying around here that makes the job significantly easier. I might be willing to loan it out if I can count on it being returned within a reasonable amount of time.
 

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Moser made the shafts and longfield made the cv's. Just sewer cap the housings to clear the larger ring gear and have a machine shop bore the stubs and swivels. Let me know if you go this route. I'll gladly pull shit and send pics and measurements if it helps.
You still need the drive flanges. I think RT made their own. Macnamara offered almost the same setup. Maybe they still have some
 

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I think two of the original Rover studs are re-used on the third, and the rest have to be knocked out, plug welded, and then a new series of 5/16-24 bolts welded into holes drilled out for the Toy pattern. I believe you need to make two notches for the ring gear, and a third notch if you're running the E-Locker setup.

I have one of the old templates from RT laying around here that makes the job significantly easier. I might be willing to loan it out if I can count on it being returned within a reasonable amount of time.

you got to keep yours? I had to send mine back.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sounds like its going to be just as much hassle as i originally thought, i think ill just swap fzj80 axles complete. Just barely missed out on a pair of locked complete axles for 1500 bucks, the hunt continues...
 

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What about using a Wire EDM to modify an aftermarket Rover flange to accept the Longfields? Not sure how significantly different the diameter is between the two shafts, but I would think it's possible.
 

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What about using a Wire EDM to modify an aftermarket Rover flange to accept the Longfields? Not sure how significantly different the diameter is between the two shafts, but I would think it's possible.
10 spline flanges certainly. Rover 10 spline are 1.1'' , 24 spline are 1.24'' , which is possibly a bit close to 1.3'' toyota.
 

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I think 10 spline flanges were all 6 bolt series pattern. Didn't 10 spline range rovers use a flanged stub shaft up front?

the rt flanges look just like a 5 bolt series flange, if one existed.
 

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driveshafts

are u guys talking about the pinion and transfer casse yokes if so ive made hundredes of conversion flanges
 

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I think 10 spline flanges were all 6 bolt series pattern. Didn't 10 spline range rovers use a flanged stub shaft up front?

the rt flanges look just like a 5 bolt series flange, if one existed.
I am pretty sure early 90s had 10spl flanges. Series 6 bolt can easily be redrilled to 5. In fact you only need to drill 4 holes.
 

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<snip></snip>

What would be interesting is a comparison of strength between toyota 8" hypoid gears, and the uprated spiral bevels from Ashcroft and GBR, which have larger/stronger teeth, as well as reverse cut for front applications.

<snip></snip>
Found the following from Bill Davis at GBR. This is based on the tooth size and strength increasing as the number of teeth on a particular diameter ring gear is reduced.

Another misconception about ring and pinion gear strength is that the higher numeric ratios are weaker than lower numeric ratios. Again this is not true. Following is a listing of the ring gear tooth counts of the various ratios of interest with the durability increasing as you descend down the list:

47 teeth / Series Rover 4.70 – least durable
46 teeth / Rover 3.54
41 teeth / Toyota 4.10
39 teeth / GBR 3.90
38 teeth / GBR 4.75 now discontinued
37 teeth / GBR 4.11
33 teeth/ GBR 4.71
29 teeth/ GBR 4.14 – most durable
 
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