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I am thinking of swapping toy axles under my zuk and was wondering how to deal with the rear offset, (maybe cruiser rear?). Also what about the brakes, I assume you need a different master cylinder. And what are you guys doing for steering? I am just trying to see what I am up against before I dive in.thanks for your time.

Vince
 

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The rear is not a problem, I used a 83'front Toyota driveshaft in the rear it has a CV. As for the brakes, this is hard. You can use the stock toy brake lines and hook them too the stock sammy fittings, they fit with no mods. Brakes work fine with stock booster, as a matter of fact the brakes work like you wouldn't believe. The Suzuki is around 1500lbs lighter than a Toyota 4-Runna, If you think about it. Besides some drilling and welding for spring perches it's staight forward in opinion. As for steering All Pro Hysteer Arms, it's the only way to go. Or some type of cross over set up.
MY .02

[ 08-23-2001: Message edited by: fatkid ]
 

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how did you mate the toy driveshaft to the sami case?I am attempting the same swap after frying my sami shaft and going to yj's and m/l's
 

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samuraiweasel said:
I am thinking of swapping toy axles under my zuk and was wondering how to deal with the rear offset, (maybe cruiser rear?). Also what about the brakes, I assume you need a different master cylinder. And what are you guys doing for steering? I am just trying to see what I am up against before I dive in.thanks for your time.
Lots of existing info on both Toy axles & steering solutions.
Try a search....
 

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Bringing an old thread back to life, I see. Oh well, I'll throw this out there...

fatkid said:
As for steering All Pro Hysteer Arms, it's the only way to go.
You're probably right. I don't think the Kong's 4x4 arms are beefy enough. :D :D :D

<img src="http://home.off-road.com/~mithrandir/hysteer/steer_7.jpg">
 

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thanks for asking....

Ive been wondering some of the same things. Ive got the basic concept down...

Brakes- cool
Springs/percehes - cool
steering - kinda ?

Definitly gonna dump some $ on the arms..... Is this with the stock zuke box? I know lots of people run other stuff. Can/will the stock box work? (i have different wheel so i can turn it better)

Drive shaft - Re drilling works... but is this on the +88.5 flanges ?

What about the centering ring ? Is close good enough?

thanks
-mike
 

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YOu lazy fucking bastards need to do a god dam SEARCH!!!!!!
 

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I can't speek for everyone but,
I've just about worn the fucking <a href="search.php?s="><img src="images/top_search.gif" alt="Search" border="0"></a> button out ! After reading for a few weeks straight on suzuki/toy axle swaps it all starts to sound the same and still doesn't answer a few basic questions I have.

So chill and have a :beer: or stop clicking on toy axle threads on the suzuki board.

-yag
 

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OK, you want to know what the big problem with the Toyota swap is? Simply, it is the steering issues. Stock, the Toyotas have a pretty silly little u-chapped arm that is worthless to most anyone. Even Toyota guys tend to pull them off their older rigs once they get a little flex going.

So what do you replace it with? Hmm, how about some of those sweet high steer arms that are so popular? Sure why not? Well, I'll tell you why not, becuase they down work well on a Zuk, that's why. The tie rod and draglink will hit each other. So how do you fix that? Well, I can think of 3 things:

1) Move your steering box forward. This is what most people have done thus far, and it is pretty major surgery. (Take a look at your Zuk, and you will get the idea.)

2) Run a different steering box that has the drag link facing forward. Such units are the FJ-60, Scout II or '79 Ford F-150 4x4 boxes. The Scout being the cheapest, anywhere from free to about $65. This is the method I'm using.

3) Don't do a high steer set up. Keep the tie rod down below the springs, and you should be OK. This is probably the easiest method. All Pro sells a steering arm for just this task. Take some measurements and make sure it will work though. I have not looked to closely at this method. Your tie rod will be hitting the rocks more, but if you put beefed up rod there, you should be fine with your Zuk!

I'd probably go with method 3 except that I need to add power steering anyhow, and the boxes I listed above all mount ot the outside of the frame, and give me more room under the hood. (great for you V6 guys.)

The rest of the swap isn't that bad. I suggest you get some good u-bolts for the front axle (if you have an 85 axle like mine, you will want the u-bolts to have the flat on the bottom). I made a custom spring pad to level out the pads on the front axle, and used all Samurai parts on the rear install Same as you would use for a normal SPOA on a Zuk. I got some new pads from Petroworks, and the rest of my SPOA stuff bolted right up, even my old U-bolts.

From there it is just a matter of drive shafts and new rims.

Hope this helps.

-Wayne
 

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I went with the standard Allpro steering arm and the marlin crawler "marlink" tie rod.Very tuff stuff.I had to move the front driver sid e perch pad over I inch and I am abou to get some 1" spacers for my front driveshaft.By the way I was gonna use a toy cv driveshaft in the rear but I have the small t/c flange that is too small to drillout.What year flange do I need to get my toy driveshaft to work?killer brakes also
 

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nuttzack said:
YOu lazy fucking bastards need to do a god dam SEARCH!!!!!!
Damb due its about you showed back up no how about those specs I emailed ya on real big Please I realy dont want to reengineer the wheel.:D
 

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Dude if you do a search or just some lurking around you will find all of the information you need. And if get stuck on some tech questions and don't want to get FLAMED buy SOME (notice I put some) of the people on here feel free to email me. [email protected].
 

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OH DAMN !!! way back in march i really was a toy swap newbie!!! Now with all these piles or parts (and bills) in various stages of cohesion to my zuke i feel like im a know it all who web wheels too much as my junk is STILL on jack stands... oh wait thats not me must be someone else...

UPS ---> fawked me again... Left tag but no 35 MTRs.... wasted trip to pickup center casue slow poke wasnt back yet....now i got to wait till monday cause i didnt call in by 7..... IDIOTS !!!!!! now the bastard has to trip on em in his truck for 2 more days!!!!

-y (cant anything ever go smooth) ag
 

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what specs did ya nee rockrat?
 

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I no you lengthend your wheelbase so I was lookin for the measuerment on your Rods I did a search and couldnt come up with your original pics. Gonna be orderin material for the Toy swap in about 2wks from what I remember rods were 1-3/8 " 1/4" wall but I was not sure the lengths and if you did it again what would ya change. Basically an itemized shopping list thanx Scott
 
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