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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK,
After reading the flame wars on this subject and deciding what I really want to do with my Zuk I need to know what is involved in swaping in Toy axles. I don't need that "just put them under you rig, and get it awn" shit from people who had their stuff built for them. I need to know what I'm going to need. Steering, brakes, gears, lockers. What are the factory gears in a toy axle? can I still use my steering box? I need to do this low buck. Does anyone have a web page showing the install of the axles and steering?? I'm running a toy driveshaft in the rear, are the flanges the same on all the rear axles? What year axles do I need? I know this is a lot of questions, But if I'm going to make this happen, I need to know what I'm getting into.
Feel free to e-mail or PM me on this subject.

Poppy or Scawfish, I need to see your rides close up if possiable? Any ideas would help me out. <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">
 

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there was another post that went into this a little. it's really that easy. you can come see if you want, your only in windsor.
 

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We are doing this under my neighbors samurai in a few weeks. He is buying my Toy axles , that are under my toy right now, and I'm going for military axles <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
THe perches are a little off, looks to be about a 1/2" off per perch, so you will want to move the perches in a bit. Toy Axles are NOT crossover steering, so you will have to do that as well. You can get a replacement arm for the right side for about $250, that will allow you to use a draglink.
The factory shock mount will probably be a little far out on the axle, so you might want to relocate that as well.
Stock Toyota gearing is 4.10:1 . . so its lower than stock Samurai.

The only thing that we have been concerned about is that the output of the driveline for the rear is offset for the samurai rearend. On Toyota's , the rear axle has a centered differential. I am not sure if this will affect anything, an expert would know better.
 

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Sorry, I didnt read your entire post, so here is some mroe information:

If you plan on wheeling it, you need lockers! Even lower gears are good. Initially, I wouldn't buy gears for your axles though. The 4.10 will give you a little lower gears, and you can buy a GRS II to give you the 18% reduction in high range.
If you want a cheap steering setup, you can take off the right side arm, go pull another one from a junkyard, torch or cut off just the arm part (not the mounting plate) weld it on at an angle (45-50 degrees), and weld a piece of plate verticially along the two arms for stability. That is a cheap and good setup. There are many pictureso f this setup on the Toyota board.
Then, be aware that your current draglink will probably not be long enough to work, since the axles are slightly wider. You can easily grab some strong DOM tubing, have some heim or FJ80 rod ends tapped into the ends of it and have a great drag link. Thay way you can also eliminate using one of those stupid z shaped draglinks. Your steering box, if its still the manual one, will make it HELL to turn tires. It would be a great time to convert to a power steering option, and of course you can contact all the usual dealers (Calmini, Petroworks, etc).
You should be ok with brakes. Stock Toyota brakes are really good and really strong (double piston calipers). I am not sure what the bore is of a Samurai Master Cylinder, but if its anywhere near 13/16 then you have what the stock Toyota isand you'll be fine.
Oh, and I've owned Samurais and TOyota's, which is why I know a little bit about both . . I just stopped by the board here to look around!!
When you start looking at locker options, stick with the EZ Locker. You can go with Detroits, ARB's and the Elctrics, but they are a waste of money. Most TOyota guys have been running EZ Lockers in their rigs for years, and most can tell you that they have NEVER had a problem with them. Since they are very cheap, you can save yourself money to spend elsewhere.
As far as the years to get the axles from, the last year Toyota made a straight axle for front and rear was '85. After that, toyota went IFS in the front and widened the rear end by 3". So, the most burly of the Toyota Axles, by the gauge of the housings and spindle strength was '84 and '85. I would recommend grabbing both from the same truck, in case anyone did any modificatiosn to their axles, and you could get a mismatched pair. ALL toyota straight axles in the early '80s had 4.10 gears. They are all 8" gears as well.
I would recommend buying some Marfields (replacement upgraded birfields for the axles), since the Toyota ones are quite weak.

If you have any more questions just ask.

My only questions I would like to know are :

1) ANy problems withthe fact that Toyota diffs are centered and the driveline is offset?

2) What is the bore of the Samurai Master Cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
x2,
thanks for the info, For a rear shaft I have a '90 Toyota CV shortned with adaptors for the Zuk axles and t-case. I'll be using this shaft so having a center diff wouldn't pose a problem. If it dose I'm going to add another CV at the other end!! Compound angles are not a problem with that set up, Tom Woods does this for severe angles. AS for the brakes, I heard the sammy master is good to go!!

[ 08-27-2001: Message edited by: zuk88 ]
 

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what do you guys think about running toy axles with detroits front and rear and 529 gears.
I was offered some of these for sale and my questions are how will the detroit affect steering in the front and will I blow birfs with the light weight of the sami.
also how would the gear set work offroad and on. Will it give me good onroad manners without buying the transfer gearset, or should we get the gearset too
 

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The lower gears will make it good for driving on the street. The detroit will do fine on the road, I droe my Samurai with a locked front and rear, and I drive my toyota right now, locked up front and rear as a daily driver!
As far as blowing birfields, you are more prone to blowing birfields when you run a locker in the front. BUT, toyota's do not break many birfields as it is, and when they do break them its under situations when they wheel is cranked far in an outward position, and a good amount of throttle is given. This takes a bit of tact in how to approach obstacles. Since the sammy motor is pretty small, I do not see a problem. A good thing to do is carry spares. Other than that, I think it will be just fine.
 

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so do you think the 529s will be at least OK for a while offroad, like say maybe for a year to save up for transfer gears.
 

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My Sami has Toyota axle with 5.29. The front pads are just off a little. I did not like the rear center diff even with the cv driveline. I am now waiting for my off set Tacoma rear end from TT. Should be alot better.
 

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As far as gears go, 5.29's are great. You can go with the 5.71's but there weak. The pinion is too small.
As far as the rear drive shaft angle the CV can handle it, I drive mine on the highway and I drive it daily.
Detroits are the best but I think there overkill on a Sammy, Detroits cost cash opposed to Lockrites. However If I could get a hook up on them I'd run them all day.
Brakes, just hook up the lines. The master cylinder is only an issue if you make one, keep it simple. Although the only wheeling I do is on the web. Get it... <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
 

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If you don't get power steering it is a killer to drive with a front axle in 4 low. Last night me and my friend went in his newly locked sami and he bent his tie rod really bad because of the steres. But bets me. <IMG SRC="smilies/shy.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by finder_87:
<STRONG>If you don't get power steering it is a killer to drive with a front axle in 4 low. Last night me and my friend went in his newly locked sami and he bent his tie rod really bad because of the steres. But bets me. <IMG SRC="smilies/shy.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
I hear that, mine is kinda tuff to steer.I use 3/4 heims with 1" .250 for my draglink and tie rod. I think what I run is overkill by far but why not.
<IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">
 

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I have never had a problem with a Lockrite, I know people who have carrier problems that have broken them though. All the people I wheel with run Lockrites too, not to mention that none of them have had problems. Although the Tin Benders have been none to baby there junk. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by [email protected]:
[QB]Hi Guys


go Detroit soft locker this has been talked about on the Toy board and is the consensus.

Thats alot of bullshiat !!!

This is just my opinion
Rick


<IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> :smokin

Hey Rick ! You know what opinons are like and how they smell... <IMG SRC="smilies/eyemouth.gif" border="0">
 

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OTT
WTF?? Your using one of OUR club members as an Example?? Dude, if you ASK people what they run 90% would say lock right..
CHEAP, EASY and quick...

I love how you try to stand behind your "OTT".... Just because you Own, or work for some place doesn't mean you know your shit.. I have met wheel'd and party'd with ALOT of people from this BB and done work for even more.. I NEVER claim to know it all or TELL people what to run.. I will however tell them what works for me, and what has and does work for people...

I love your "IT's NOT LEGAL" to weld on steer'n arms... Where? I also love how it open'd a nice little spot for you to plug OTT.. I have done ALOT of x-over steering's by cut'n and weld'n right side Toy arms together... IF DONE RIGHT, it will last forever..

"Don't cut your spring pads" WTF??

Again, what are you smoke'n???
I say cut um, move um, weld um.. While your at cut and turn the knuckles too.. PERFECT Pinion angles,and PERFECT caster is all you'll gain... If thats "THE WORST DRIVE AND STEERING YOU CAN GET".... I'm all for it....

"WELD THE FRONT".... If your gonna weld anything, weld/spool the rear and lock the front..
To use your name drp'n style.. CAMO, FROSTY and a bunch of others...

"just my opion"... that's cool, but then you back it with a statement like "i've messed with screw'd for setups for 5 years and I've learned to do it right the first time"....

5 years!! hahaha.... there are people here who have tires older than that!!

OTT, you may have ment well with your, I know what I'm talk'n about so do it right (like me) reply, but it rub'd me wrong...

If there is anything I've learned from 20+ years of play'n in the dirt and rocks is....
IT'S NOT WHAT YOU DRIVE, IT'S HOW YOU DRIVE IT!!

<IMG SRC="smilies/bender.gif" border="0">
 

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Lockrights generally last very well in Toyota diff's.

Welded steering arms are fine if done correctly.

There - I disagreed and didn' even argue with anyone <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">
 

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hey do you think i should make a new drag link to go with my 235/70/15 tires or should i get a dropped pitman arm to go with these big tires, <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

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yikes! mmrrorrwr,ffffft ssssssss!
nasty ol' buncha sharks.
i'm always amazed at how polarized people get when it comes to opinions that "go against the grain" and then a generalized feeding frenzy starts to drive away the offending party...
from what i have obseved so far,the worst is reserved for those who seem to say things with "i know the shit" attitudes.
i tend to agree with the general principle of knocking down blowhards afew pegs.
(anyone remember the "calpolystud episode?")
but i don't think it's very productive to savage some poor bastard when he does state "in my opinion".
granted,HOW it's said makes all the difference in the world,even if it's backed up with "in my opinion".
.......(i.m.h.o.)
<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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I Honestly don't mean to be an ass... If you know me, I am "the nicest guy you ever met" (if I had a dime for everytime I heard that..lol)..

I think that there is alot to be said for doing stuff yourself and learning from your mistakes.. it does help to be pointed in the "right" direction and in doing so you'll save alot of time and $$... BUT "right" for one guy is "not right" for the next...

WHERE you wheel makes ALL the diff. in the world!!!
NO one knows better than YOU, just how hard YOU wheel and on what kind of terrain...

IF your look'n to find a little "help" than turn to the people who wheel in your neck of the woods that wheel like you do... my.02

[ 08-31-2001: Message edited by: Tin Bender ]
 
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