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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm working on turning my old '85 pickup into a dedicated trail rig.

I've been going back and forth a lot trying to decide what to do for a front axle.

I currently have the stock '85 fron axle under the truck, it's open, w/ 4.10s and needs it's nuckles re-built.

I've wheeled this truck but not very hard so I've never broken a birf (probably also due to the open diff and 33's)

I plan to run 36"-37" tires, with around 200-1 gearing.

So I'm looking for some input, on my front axle options.

option one is to keep the front axle I have, It's going to need a nuckle rebuld, gears, a locker, hy-steer, etc.

Or ditch the current front axle, and pick up a D44 (waggoner axles fit, right?, or maybe a cut down chevy?) It would also need a rebuild, gears, locker, hy-steer etc. But in the long run would be stronger.

So I'm feeling reluctant to put any money into the stock axle, but at the same time I've never broken a birf before, and the ground clearance, and removable third member of the stock axle sure is nice. It seems like the stock axle would also be cheaper.(aleast untill I start blowing birfs a lot)

your $.02?

thanks.
 

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I would stick with the Toy axle. A D44 is not really an upgrade. If you had an 86 or newer truck and was doing an SAS then I would suggest a D44 so you can go wider.
 

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Originally posted by Priest:
<STRONG>here we go again.....</STRONG>
yep...this is going to be interesting

Why not do a d70 rear and a d60 front?
Hell, just swap in dual 2 1/2 ton rockwells

<IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">


j/k -- keep the toy axle, you'd have to break a lot of birfs @ $50 a piece to justify it, unless you just want a stronger axle. And if thats the case, seriously, do a d60.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Originally posted by ToyZilla:
<STRONG>I would stick with the Toy axle. A D44 is not really an upgrade. If you had an 86 or newer truck and was doing an SAS then I would suggest a D44 so you can go wider.</STRONG>
What makes you say that a d44 is not an upgrade?

Everyone seems to say it's stronger, better turng radius, u-jounts are easier to fix when they go, etc.

But the toy axle has some nice features as well. IE: better ground clerance, and the removable third member.
 

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Go with a D44 since you have no money invested in the Toyota axle. This has been beaten to death lately, go with what you want and have fun with it. That's what it's all about.
 

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I'm sure there are plenty of built Dana 30's out there collecting dust thatt you could get for minimal $$$... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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i'd have to say go with the d30!!!!

hahaha, j/k, keep the toy axle until it breaks regularly, and then put d60 outers and knuckles on it
 

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i might take LRD up on his offer, that would be a sweet axle too, that way you'd only have to build it once, just my .02 <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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I would agree - a Dana 44 is not enough of an upgrade IMHO over a Toyota axle if you already have the Toyota axle under there.

SAS - another story... 44 all the way.

Unless you want the width - then by all means - go for it <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">
 

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Just wheel it until you get sick of changing birfields! Come Awn!! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

And, I have to disagree about the D44 not being an upgrade, I have a thick-tube D44 that is a huge pig! I'm sure it is stronger than even a gusseted toy axle. <IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0">
 

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Keep the Toy front til it breaks then put on Dana 60 knuckles and outers etc...
You say that lightly, like it is an easy thing. Finding 60 outers and knuckles for a reasonable price is gonna be tough... the easiest way to do that is to find them attached to a Dana 60, one that you might just use as is. A shaved 60 can come pretty close to an unshaved Toyota axle for ground clearance, and there's no doubt the 60 is stronger.

Don't get me wrong -- I like my Toyota front axle just fine. I like my dog, too -- he's a a good friend, but strapping a bikini onto hime won't make him a supermodel. ...and welding Dana 60 outers on your Toyota axle won't make it a super axle.

Now stay the hell away from my dog. <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Randii
 

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Originally posted by dangerber:
<STRONG>And, I have to disagree about the D44 not being an upgrade, I have a thick-tube D44 that is a huge pig! I'm sure it is stronger than even a gusseted toy axle. <IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
What does tube weight and thickness have to do with shaft strength? <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

Hey, if you feel like lugging around more metal for no reason, be my guest... the rest of us are talking about STRENGTH <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by randii:
<STRONG>Keep the Toy front til it breaks then put on Dana 60 knuckles and outers etc...
You say that lightly, like it is an easy thing. Finding 60 outers and knuckles for a reasonable price is gonna be tough... the easiest way to do that is to find them attached to a Dana 60, one that you might just use as is. A shaved 60 can come pretty close to an unshaved Toyota axle for ground clearance, and there's no doubt the 60 is stronger.</STRONG>
Amen on finding 60 knuckle parts for cheap <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">
 

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bmaresh-- It's an upgrade but I'm not sure everyone really needs it. I went on the HIGHWAY TO HELL run with 6 other Yotas that all had berfs and up to 38" tires and they all seemed to get thru fine with no breakage...not even a flat.
My 44 came out of a 79ish Chevy. I had it shortened by a speed shop about 10 inches to 58" width for 200 bucks. Doing it again, I would shoot for a 61" width due to tires rubbing on the leafpacks. I like the 5.89 gear option I have as it offsets the 36" TSLs nicely and I use this as a daily driver sometimes. Last month it saw 1000 miles of highway. My 44 housing has a 3" dia tube that is 3/8" thick which is pretty stout compared the 44's used in the rear of TJs and Wagoneers....don't know about the front Waggys. http://dreamwater.com/zuk/h2h.html
 

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Originally posted by randii:
<STRONG>Keep the Toy front til it breaks then put on Dana 60 knuckles and outers etc...
You say that lightly, like it is an easy thing. Finding 60 outers and knuckles for a reasonable price is gonna be tough... the easiest way to do that is to find them attached to a Dana 60, one that you might just use as is. A shaved 60 can come pretty close to an unshaved Toyota axle for ground clearance, and there's no doubt the 60 is stronger.

Don't get me wrong -- I like my Toyota front axle just fine. I like my dog, too -- he's a a good friend, but strapping a bikini onto hime won't make him a supermodel. ...and welding Dana 60 outers on your Toyota axle won't make it a super axle.

Now stay the hell away from my dog. <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Randii</STRONG>
It's not as hard as you think, the parts are not that hard to come by, even new there not that pricey - Why lug around the extra weight of a 60 even if it's shaved, I doubt too many people could manage a shave job anyway. Just my opinion.

Sorry to hear your crossdressing your dog, maybe you should stay away from him......

[ 10-24-2001: Message edited by: LRD ]
 

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Originally posted by DRM:
<STRONG>What does tube weight and thickness have to do with shaft strength? <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

Hey, if you feel like lugging around more metal for no reason, be my guest... the rest of us are talking about STRENGTH <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
I was responding to the comment that a toy axle housing that is gusseted is stronger than a D44 housing... <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

Sorry for your confusion. <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by dangerber:
<STRONG>I was responding to the comment that a toy axle housing that is gusseted is stronger than a D44 housing... <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

Sorry for your confusion. <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
No confusion here - housing strength is a moot point considering how few Toy front housings fail from bending, I am not worried with either a 44 or the Toy housing...
 

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Originally posted by randii:
<STRONG>Now stay the hell away from my dog. <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
{In my best ******* "Delieverance" Voice:}
<font color="yellow">Where'n e-zactly is this dog of yours?

<hr>
Nice analogy, anyway...
</font>
 

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Originally posted by DRM:
<STRONG>No confusion here - housing strength is a moot point considering how few Toy front housings fail from bending, I am not worried with either a 44 or the Toy housing...</STRONG>
Agreed, I was just questioning LRD's comment... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Although, what was I hearing about bent housings that some people were discovering when installing their Redline kits. <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">

But, we won't go there..This topic should have never been posted AGAIN! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 
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