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Discussion Starter #1
has anyone tried after-market motor mounts for toyotas w/ 22r's?
which brand? how much? do they make a differance?

asking cause i have replaced both mtr mounts and tranny mount w/ brand new oem stuff and i still seem to be getting a lot of
motor/tranny flex in high torque situations.
 

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crashed said:
has anyone tried after-market motor mounts for toyotas w/ 22r's?
which brand? how much? do they make a differance?

asking cause i have replaced both mtr mounts and tranny mount w/ brand new oem stuff and i still seem to be getting a lot of
motor/tranny flex in high torque situations.
Thats because they are RUBBER. If they didn't flex your junk would vibrate you to death. Alot of people here run limiting chains vs. an aftermarket mount because of the smooth ride of the stock rubber mounts. I took a stock mount and drilled a hole through it and put a long bolt from bottom to top with some rubber bushings and tack welded the nut. And I have had no problems and thing runs smoth. Total cost was $4.56 at the harware store. And I know a guy with close to a 1000:1 crawl ration running these for 3 years now with no problems.

Sam
 

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Re: Re: toy mtr mounts

poorwheeler said:
And I know a guy with close to a 1000:1 crawl ration running these for 3 years now with no problems.

Sam
you mean 100:1????
 

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Discussion Starter #5
what's wrong w/ 1000:1??
Marlin is about 1200:1.


anyone try after-market mtr mounts and have a problem w/ vibration?

anyone try running 2 stock tranny mounts w/ duel case setup?
pictures?
 

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say what you will, but anybody with a 1000:1 crawl ratio needs to be bitch slapped repeatedly for doing so. nomatter what anybody says... there is such thing as TOO SLOW!!!! i, persoanlly, would go no lower than 250:1. but thats just me.
 

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crashed said:
anyone try after-market mtr mounts and have a problem w/ vibration?
I run LCE mounts, and everything vibrates awful. I have pulled apart two sets of NWOR mounts.

The LCE mounts are bombproof but the whole truck buzzes terribly.
 

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I am running one Rockstomper mount on the PS and a stocker with a chain on the DS. Still buzzes, but not as bad. DS does not stress as much unless I am crawling is reverse. If anyone interested in my other Rockstomper at a fair price let me know.
 

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I built my own look just like Scotts:D will not tell you were I got the Idea:D i will post a pic tonight,vibrates a little more than stock but the engine stays put....
 

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I also have a set of Rockstomper mounts for sale. I'm sure they would be fine for a trail only rig, but mine is STILL a daily driver. I had them on for a trip to the Rubicon and back. I really couldn't wait to get them off. Do a search, you will find that a 3 link piece of chain welded to the frame and the top of the motor mount will do the job VERY well. Bentyota
 

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If you want the smoothness of the stock motormounts get a Frontrange Off Road crossmember. They help with all the torque of a crawl box.



 

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raptorman57 said:
If you want the smoothness of the stock motormounts get a Frontrange Off Road crossmember. They help with all the torque of a crawl box.



i like the look of that x-member, but i built a x-member for mine ( something like what geiger has on his buggy,at least i think it's his buggy it's on) anyway, mine is a solid mount on the trans,but i have 3 bushings ( 2 on pass. and 1 on drivers side ) and it still wants to rip off my motor mounts. guess it time to chain them down or call rockstomper :D
 

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I agree about the LC mounts being bullet proof, but they do rattle the crap out of you...one of the reasons I now trailer it. Tried the NWOR, but they just tore apart. I'd go w/ the chain if you drive it to the trails.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
raptorman57 said:
If you want the smoothness of the stock motormounts get a Frontrange Off Road crossmember. They help with all the torque of a crawl box.


I really like the look and idea behind front range offroad's design
but i can't feel comfortable w/ the amount of stress that must be created in a duel case setup. Too much weight in the center that is not being supported. Plus the cast aluminum housing ( the area were f.r.o.'s cross memberbolts to) is not designed to support weight like that.

I guess i'll probably fab a c-member that incorporates 2 oem t-mounts and chain the mtr mounts
 

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Re: Re: Re: toy mtr mounts

Toyotafourwheeln said:


you mean 100:1????
I was refering to Marlin. He was the one who showed me how to make this mount. Showed up at his shop late one night and he halfway built one for me. Works excelent. But now I have went to the FROR crossmember and will probably go back to stock mounts, or maybe not.
 

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I run similiar mounts, and everything vibrates awful at about 35mph and on up (or at higher engine rpms), but they are bombproof! Also have crossmember that works similiar to FRORs but mounts solidly to the xfer case stock mount holes with rubber busshings at the frame rails.

Used to run stock yota mounts with 2 xfer mounts on my dual cases but this still flexed back and forth too much causing me to lose traction in difficult situations due to the spring effect of the rubber bushings winding up and then unloading.
 

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A little while back i posted about this same problem and the solutions offered on this post are like some of the responses I got for my "solution to a problem that nobody asked" I still think that with a little tinkering this is a pretty good idea. I have been running this set up now for a while on the street with 35"s and the stock 4.10. I had trouble with the power steering pump rotating up and sawing a hole in the efi air intake tube. Since I put this in ( I know I'm having 5.29s built) the torque that my motor produces to turn the 35s dosen't twist the motor nearly as much and I have no more rub and the vibration problem is a non issue. Do a search for "torque arm for toyota motor mounts" ......... Don't know how to do a link.
 
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