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Discussion Starter #1
I'm rebuilding my first SA. It was pretty nasty on the teardown, I'm sure the bearings are shot, so.

I'm wondering if anybody has the part numbers for all of the bearings I'm gonna need.... wheel, kingpin, etc.???

Do the kingpin bearings even need replaced??? I don't want to do this again.

Thanx,
Vinnie
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How about this

Super rebuild kit has EVERYTHING to rebuild your axle.
 

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Here's the diagram from the manual:


I used a complete kit from JTOutfitters. One thing you'll want to know: See in the upper left, group "43204 Seal"? Well, the metal piece in the front that looks like a giant snap-ring and the upper-leftmost metal plate (which is actually 2 pieces) are re-used. DO NOT throw them away, or you'll be buying a seal kit from the dealer to get 'em back.

That kits about $25 IIRC to re-seal eac knuckle. I recommend doing so if you're going to replace the bearings...

The knuckles will almost certainly be gouged from years of turning back and forth. Here's what I did; I slapped a glob of JB Weld epoxy onto the knuckle whereever it was gouged, and sanded it down with a block.

JB Weld applied:


Nice and smooth again:


This directory on my site has 140 pictures from the axle rebuild. I keep meaning to do the mother-of-all writeups on it, but I'm sofa king lazy. :)
http://home.off-road.com/~mithrandir/axlepics/
 

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Discussion Starter #6
RightPedal, are you saying that I should buy those seal kits from the dealer, or reuse my old stuff?

I just checked the bearing and race numbers that Jay posted at my local bearing supply house and I should be able to get all 4 of the bearings and races for around $50-60! Does that sound right? JT wants $25 for 1 bearing and race!

BTW, I think I might post pics of my housing ends and see what you guys think about the condition....

Thanx,
Vinnie
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RightPedal, are you saying that I should buy those seal kits from the dealer, or reuse my old stuff?
Sorry - that was confusing, wasn't it. I was saying that *IF* someone buys a rebuild kit from a place like JToutiffters, it won't include the metal parts of the knuckle seals, just the rubber and felt seals.

I'd recommend getting a new set of seals if yours look shot when you get in there.

I just checked the bearing and race numbers that Jay posted at my local bearing supply house and I should be able to get all 4 of the bearings and races for around $50-60! Does that sound right? JT wants $25 for 1 bearing and race!
Yikes. If you have the axle apart, clean an inner&outer bearing off and go up to the bearing place with it. If it's the right thickness and diamater and eveything, you have a winner. Make sure it includes a new race at that price - a new bearing isn't going to last very long in the old worn races, and it may not even fit them.

Example: My kingpin bearings are an SKF one which matches the factory ones perfectly. The only difference is that the SKF beagins had a steeper taper to them. Look at the difference in the thickness of the lip around the race... the factory Toy is on the left, my new SKF is on the right:


BTW, I think I might post pics of my housing ends and see what you guys think about the condition....
Don'y bother, really. Just clean them off really good, and if they're rough or pitted at *ALL*, spend $5 on a pack of JB weld and grab some sandpaper... they'll be good as new for cheap. If they're smooth to the touch, don't worry about doing anything. :)
 

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Almost forgot, you NEED to replace the knuckle bearings while you're in there... I just added the info to the Toy FAQ. Here's a quote with the part numbers for the kingpin bearings. I think a Toyota one is $25-30 each. I crushed one of my SKF bearing under a jackstand, so I have 3 SKFs and one Toy one... :rasta:

RightPedal said:
Timken Wheel front wheel bearing part numbers for 79-85 front axle:
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Front wheel outer LM102949 & LM102910
Front wheel inner JLM104948 & JLM104910

Trunion/Kingpin/Knuckle bearing part numers, 79-85 front axle:
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Toy part# 45611F
KOYO 30303D
SKF part# 30303j2
I added the diagram of the front axle (From JTOutfitters) to the FAQ post as well, but since it's already in this thread, I'll leave it out.
 

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Toy is on the left, my new SKF is on the right
Notice how the Toyota bearing is designed to carry a thrust load and the SKF is designed to carry a rolling load? Think maybe there's a reason for that?:confused:

Kinda like using a screwdriver for a chisel, IMHO.
 

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Dude, there's like a five degree difference in the angle. I'm not worried about it at all. I think you're, well, thinking too hard.

Besides, service life is practically a non-issue in this application, as hard trail use with 36-38 inch tires means annual replacement anyways.

...And if you think about it, the primary loads they see aren't vertical... the bottom bearing is being pulled outward, and the top one is being pushed in toward the center of the vehicle. The SKF may actually be a better design, but I think this is defintely a case of internet-spurred over-analyzation. Just buy a bearing and run it until it wears out. :p
 

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5 Degrees is huge in bearings... and knowing enough to know the difference doesn't mean I'm thinking too hard. :flipoff2: The bearings are definitely designed for different purposes, you pays your money and you makes your choice, but I'm sure Toyota did a little research and have some well qualified engineers... and they did a fine job on the rest of the shit they worked on.
 

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RightPedal said:
Example: My kingpin bearings are an SKF one which matches the factory ones perfectly. The only difference is that the SKF beagins had a steeper taper to them.
Then they don't match at all do they??:flipoff2: I got a set of those last time I rebuilt. I kept looking at them wondering why they were made different than the others I'd seen. They're going in the trash now anyway.
 

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OOP'S said:
Just buy a kit, either the one posted above or this one.

http://www.allprooffroad.com/knuckle.html


Then buy the wheel bearings that Jay posted!!!:D
The JTO kit has ALL the bearing and seals, as well as the socket (and grease too).
The AP kit doesn't have the inner/outter bearings/races, or the socket.
The JTO kit is the deal.
 

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AP kit doesn't have the inner/outter bearings/races, or the socket
So it's an extra $95.00 for a socket I already have, grease I already have, and wheel bearings I don't need. What a deal! :rolleyes:

I used the AP kit each time, and the taper on the bearings even matched what I took out. :flipoff2:
 

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Just an FYI......I have over 200k miles on my original
'85 front wheel bearings. Gotta love that Toyota
over-engineering.

Jay
 

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ROKTOY said:
Just an FYI......I have over 200k miles on my original
'85 front wheel bearings. Gotta love that Toyota
over-engineering.

Jay
.........I bet 90% of the guys out there through away perfectly good bearing:rolleyes: NEWSFLASH! Only replace bearing that are bad..........;) and get the right knuckle bearing, don't slap in bearing with a tapper off 5*, damn! WTF??????? And why anyone would recomend that you use them is just bad advise.
 

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fourwd1 said:


The JTO kit has ALL the bearing and seals, as well as the socket (and grease too).
The AP kit doesn't have the inner/outter bearings/races, or the socket.
The JTO kit is the deal.
The JTO kit has ALL the bearing and seals I do not change wheel Bearings every time I service the font end!!!
as well as the socket $10 stamped steel socket!!!:rolleyes:
(and grease too). $10 bucket of grease!!:rolleyes:

Do yourself a favor and go to Sears and buy a 2 1/8 inch socket for about $25 and save yourself the headaches of the stamped steel POS:D
 

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SeaBass44 said:
Get the right knuckle bearing, don't slap in bearing with a tapper off 5*, damn! WTF??????? And why anyone would recomend that you use them is just bad advise.
I'll be sure to pass that along to JTOutfitters. ;)
 

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RightPedal said:
I'll be sure to pass that along to JTOutfitters. ;)
write it down, send a letter, sing it to them, whatever, tell NWOR about there pos springs while you are at it! Wrong is wrong, no matter who sells it;)
 
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