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Discussion Starter #1
I changed up my build so much, most of the tech in my other thread didnt even apply anymore.

SO. I bought a set of toy axles recently off pbb, had them worked on a little, and sent out. What i have is:

factory FF rear 9.5" from a late model LX450 for the rear,
Early 80 series 9.5" semifloater rear with 80 series 8" steering bits to make it a front.

I just got these things shipped to me and man they are huge. never seen toyota diffs before either, so this should be interesting.

Having heard all the stories of exploding toyota HP8" fronts, i thought it best to stay away.

It dawned on me a little late that My front shaft angle is probably going to kill me with 3" of spring lift and a LP diff. A quick tape looks like less than 2" of difference in pinion center from rover to yota.

I was thinking Id keep the J style rover radius arms and mount them to the top of the axle tube to keep my geometry close to stock.

Ive got questions.

any of you guys ever used a LP diff in the front of a disco? what did you do to solve shaft angle? Im thinking I might push the axle forward and run a double cardan, any thoughts there?

Also, are there off the shelf factory replacement axle brackets available? Ive looked and looked, but haven't found em. It would take so much less time than reusing the stuff off my old axles.
 

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whatever
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3 link the front and 4 link the rear, easier than trying to get the stock shit to work. I put a ARB in the front of my mine, no issues as of yet with the HP 8" front, and am running a detroit in the rear. I pushed my front forward 2 inches and am running a dual double cardon driveshaft with no vibes at 65mph. Pushed the rear back 2" and am running 37's. You'll have to cut some sheet metal because the D1 wheel wells aren' that big, even for 35's. Keep it low and look to fit coil overs, more spring options to tune the suspension. A 1.4 hi-gear t-case with the 4.11 in the toy's are a good match and dump the abs. Look to do at least a hydro assist for steering. There's a bracket available to run a Saginaw PS pump, which will help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey thanks for the info!

IM not scared of losing sheetmetal.
Ultimately Ill set it on coilovers, maybe I should just do it now.
Im not super keen on a three link front for driver duty though. WHy three link? is there no room for the other upper?
 

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whatever
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yes, you can cut and turn the swivels on the stock housing to correct for the pinion angle and castor...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Will cutting and rotating the swivel balls sort your driveshaft issues?

Did you get the 300Tdi in?
My concern was the amount id need to rotate to overcome the lift and low pinion would give me oiling problems, and driveline problems. Although putting in a double cardan on each end would fix that I suppose.

havent gotten the tdi in yet, just pulled out the original power train last week.
Im waiting on a couple oil seals and Ill start it. should be a pretty painless swap, so long as I got sent a good motor.
 

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I rotated a lot and haven't had oiling issues. I would keep it hp 8". The 9.5 lp makes steering setups more complicated, plus hangs down lower. I am using standard toyota sized steering rods on mine so I can replace them when they bend. I don't remember the drag link, but the tie rod is oem fzj80 length from some guy in colorado. Reamed the pitman arm to the toyota fzj80 tre taper.

Make sure you cut and rotate the right way and jig it up. I wasted a housing and had issues because I didn't...
 

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whatever
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or you could this…
 
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