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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
That sounds very cool do you have any pic’s? What I am really looking for is to find someone who has done this and run 1” to 2” BS wheels to see if they have had any issues with extra stress on the bearings or kingpins? I realize that I will be putting extra stress on the bearings and kingpins as well as my scrub radius will change but this Jeep for the most part will be on the trail and not a daily driver. Anyone know of any pic’s or Wright up’s?
 

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I drove the jeep out of the garage this weekend. Heres a pic of a 4runner rear under a YJ with 15x10 rims i believe 3.75 BS.




Sorry that the pics are huge. I think it sits pretty descent, i think i want to get some 1.5" spacers all around though, just to give it a little more width, i dont know yet, i want to wait to wheel it first.
 

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Very nice build and that cage kicks ass!
Thanks, all props go to my buddy for the cage work, i got the body and frame with the cage in it.

Ill try to get some more pics soon, my other 2 tires are being delivered tomorrow so you can get a full affect of the jeep with all toy axles and matching wheels. ill also get some good measurements on clearences on the frame.
 

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OH! What a pity I saw this thread so late.
Drunken, I also have done a Toyo axles swap in my YJ, but...
I used some HDJ80 24v Axles. This is the model name of the 6cyl diesel landcruiser in europe, has 8" and 8,8" gears with e-lockers.

I simply rotated the front housing and modified the diff stud pattern in the housing to put in the carrier as usual. Indeed I also swapped the knuckles.
Been like this 1,5 year and it ran like a champ.

The only thing that I don't agree with the other pals is in the axles width. Mines are 165cms WMS-WMS (65" approx) being the rear slightly narrower. I use stock 7" alum rims.
Thats my nightmare as I needed 20cms (7.9") wide fender flares to cover the rubbers, and at the last inspection they rejected the frog bcouse the tire was coming out the fender 1,5cms (1/2")

In Spain you have to take the Wrangler to pass the inspection tests every 6 months. They test emissions, lights, light intensity and alignment, belts, brakes force and balance, same for e-brake, tire size, weight, dimensions... ALL! You must also declare any color paint mod :mad3::mad3::mad3::mad3:

If you fail the tire, weight or something related to offroad modifs they inmobilize the car. They inmobilised mines last week, but I escaped (was a trail on sat) :D

You can see some pics of my swap on this link: http://album.miarroba.com/Rapoza/2/

Certifying all the mods last year (for like 1k$), you can see the inspections center:


I can only tell you an advice: Trow with this Toyo shit, they don't turn at all (very big turning radius)
 

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OH! What a pity I saw this thread so late.
Drunken, I also have done a Toyo axles swap in my YJ, but...
I used some HDJ80 24v Axles. This is the model name of the 6cyl diesel landcruiser in europe, has 8" and 8,8" gears with e-lockers.

I simply rotated the front housing and modified the diff stud pattern in the housing to put in the carrier as usual. Indeed I also swapped the knuckles.
Been like this 1,5 year and it ran like a champ.

The only thing that I don't agree with the other pals is in the axles width. Mines are 165cms WMS-WMS (65" approx) being the rear slightly narrower. I use stock 7" alum rims.
Thats my nightmare as I needed 20cms (7.9") wide fender flares to cover the rubbers, and at the last inspection they rejected the frog bcouse the tire was coming out the fender 1,5cms (1/2")

In Spain you have to take the Wrangler to pass the inspection tests every 6 months. They test emissions, lights, light intensity and alignment, belts, brakes force and balance, same for e-brake, tire size, weight, dimensions... ALL! You must also declare any color paint mod :mad3::mad3::mad3::mad3:

If you fail the tire, weight or something related to offroad modifs they inmobilize the car. They inmobilised mines last week, but I escaped (was a trail on sat) :D

You can see some pics of my swap on this link: http://album.miarroba.com/Rapoza/2/

Certifying all the mods last year (for like 1k$), you can see the inspections center:


I can only tell you an advice: Trow with this Toyo shit, they don't turn at all (very big turning radius)
More details on how you made that axle a drivers drop.
That's very very interesting!!!
 

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Tony, for converting the front axle to drivers side drop, I done the following steps. I grabbed the axle as I was sitting on the engine bay, removed the 3th member, removed all until I had the bare housing. Then cutted the knuckles out and all the brackets minus the susp.arms ones.

Then the important step, grab the housing and rotate it 180 degrees.

Resolder the knuckles but left-on-right (basically the knuckles stays were you chopped them) adjusting caster and camber.

Then you remove the studs on the 3th member receiver and make a mold with its shape. Weld plug all the holes and the notch for the locker actuator. Rotate exactly 180deg the mold. Redo the holes in the new positions and tap them, reinstall the studs, Redo the notch for the actuator.


Reinstall the 3th member and all the other parts...

the suspension arms they go inverted now and mate to the frame curve :smokin:

I also cut the drain plug and welded it on the bottom, as after the rotation it stays at the top of the housing. Also replaced the front cover and welded it back rotated.


It looks like factory and if you use the correct welding rods the coupling for the 3th becomes harder than stock. I buyed some rods used for rebuild the splines on shafts and do repairs on naval engine pistons. (don't know the part numbers... 29/9 if I remember correct)

As you can see on the last picture it is wide, more than enough.

Alcolade... I don't know whats wrong with it, but it turns noticeably less than any D30. In the last competition, the last 3 years winner told me that I was driving so good, but the Jeep simply don't turn at the tights. :confused:

BTW, How you make the Hister conversion? My knuckles only have two bolts at the top, not 4 to put the lower arms at the top.
 

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Thanks.
So....the knuckles are upside down now?
Those are FJ80 axles with the tie rod behind the axle, not stock mini-truck. His knuckles are how they should be, he just cut everything off of the housing, flipped it side for side and re-installed everything. Seems like a LOT of work. Came out cool though.
Travis..
 

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That's it, the knuckles stay the same.
I don't see it such a lot of work, whenever you're adapting the axle to a YJ, you must chop almost all the brackets. And removing the knuckles is only a matter of doing a little cut with the angle grinder.

Sorry guys for my bad spelling, sometimes I come back after a little I cannot understand things I wrote.

Do you think that having a bad turning radius can be caused by a incorrect caster angle setup?
 

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Exactly how strong are 8" fronts? Those appear to make a good, light swap for a rear steering CJ3B.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Very cool Jeep! Anyway I am still in the middle of this build and I am just finishing up the front end spring mounts and shackle hangers, I put the spring perch mounts at 30” Toyotas are 29” and YJ are 31.5”. The reason I haven’t found many YJ builds with Toyota 8” mini truck axles is mostly to do with the width issue as far as I can tell so here is what I have planed.

Jeep YJ front axle is around 60” wms to wms
Toyota 8” mini truck axle is 55.5” wms to wms

So it would seem that I am short 4.5” to even get to a stock YJ width axle, so the plan is to run 2” BS 15x8 wheels and here is why.

Stock YJ wheel BS is 5.25”
New wheel is 2” BS so if I take the 3.25” per wheel that I will gain x 2 wheels = 6.5”wider – the 4.5” difference = 2” wider than a stock YJ

So that 4.5” axle difference now becomes a Toyota axle that is 2” wider than a stock YJ (well WMS anyway). Now I plan to run 35x12.5 tires and my question is this: If you where to take a stock YJ wheel add 1”offset and run a 35x12.5 tire do you think that you would run into clearance issues? There is two other ways to gain width for this dilemma I could go as low as a 1” BS wheel from MRW or run BS wheels with wheel spacers. Now I know that this is going to be hard on the bearings, studs, axle’s shafts, kingpins and screw up my scrub radius but this is going to be primarily an off road Jeep anyway and I will upgrade to stronger birf’s in the future. I will try and post some pictures soon.

Cheers
 
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