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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let me know what you think is better. I have an extra Toyota eletric locker, but I was thinking of going to ARB. I have been told that Toyota eletric locker are very slow.
 

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If you already have the electric locker, then it's a no-brainer.

Mine take about 1/2 second to lock/unlock--maybe that's slower than an ARB, I don't know...but it's plenty quick enough for me.
 

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I prefer the ARB, then again, I like changing "O" & "U" rings during weekends I could be 4 wheeling, and cleaning gear oil spewed from the solenoid onto an otherwise clean engine compartment, and reduced room in the engine compartment, and that annoying compressor cycling every 3-5 minutes, but yeah.... the ARB is my choice. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">


On second thought, wanna trade?


.
 

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I have ARBs F&R in my Cruiser, and I just finished putting an FJ80 electric locker in the front of my pickup. If you can do the housing mods and wiring yourself, there's no question, go with the electrics. They are really well designed, and work great. It's also really nice to have a light that tells you for sure that you're locked.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I like that light set up
 

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hey man, you wanna make me a kit for that switch setup?? looks very sweet man.
 

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Originally posted by Cobb:
<STRONG>hey man, you wanna make me a kit for that switch setup?? looks very sweet man.</STRONG>
Hmm... we might be able to work something out. Catch me off-line, [email protected]

Need a locker ECU unit too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How much did it cost for that set-up?
 

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so i'm guessing you make the ECU also?? so the ECU has a toggle, is the for power, and then the toggle in the dash is for lockign and unlocking?? well...let's see some prices, assuming i run front and rear e-lockers, if you don't mind posting $$$
 

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That ECU in that crappy picture is for the front only, I actually way over-built it. Yes, the toggle switch on the ECU kills all power to the whole system. You see 3 relays in there, as I added one that only allows the lockers to function when you're in 4WD. There's a clear plexy cover on the box, so you can keep an eye on everything. I also put little indicator lights on the relays so I can see when power is actually being sent to the actuator motor. Yeah, I went a little nuts, but I have a habit of doing this. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I mounted this ECU in the back of my xcab on a piece of wood, under the shelf. There is plenty of room left for a second ECU for the rear locker, whenever it shows up. I got heavy-duty trailer cable to run the wires out the back of the cab (thru that grommet) and to the lockers. The connector on the pigtail in the picture goes to the locker. As for the wiring for the dash switches, I did some measurements with my meter, found that the relays and lights draw less than 100 ma, so I used good 'ol Cat5 wire (stranded, 24 ga) to run from the D-type connector up to the switches. I put RJ45 connectors behind the dash so I can still pull that panel off completely.

If I were to do this again, there are a few things with the ECU that I would change. I would not have the 3rd relay for the 4WD switch. I also think that I could get all the relays for both F&R lockers in one box that was slightly larger. I'll try to take some decent pictures of the whole setup and post them here in a new thread. Meanwhile I'll do some research on the parts to build one, might post prices if you guys want to buy a packaged ECU setup.

A few folks have asked me about using just a simple DPDT switch to run the lockers, with out relays. This is entirely possible, Bud R has his setup this way, as does Carl (ILean). I just felt more comfortable with the relays, not having all that motor current running thru the switch. It also puts the higher motor current running thru the actuator limit contacts in the gearbox, which I don't think it's intended to handle. The factory setup uses relays, so that's what I decided to go with.
 

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Can the eletric lockers go in most any vehicle like the ARBs or are you limited on apllications? Like for instance an 82?
 

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Originally posted by Cycler:
<STRONG>Can the eletric lockers go in most any vehicle like the ARBs or are you limited on apllications? Like for instance an 82?</STRONG>
The rear 4Runner lockers ('96-'00) and the front FZJ80 Land Cruiser lockers are standard 8" ring gear, they can go in any Toyota axle that has an 8" gear ('79-'85 F&R, '86+ rear). These pages might answer a lot of your questions too:

http://molmed.umassmed.edu/~kdb/locker/locker.html
http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/toyota/tech/electric_locker/
 

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How much do those electric lockers cost? I'd like to know so I could possibly acquire one in the near future. Thanks
 

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KLF - yeah, i'd probably be interested in a kit for both lockers and then the switch configuration, however, can you leave out the 4WD only relay <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">. yeah...if you get a chance to pics some better pics, and maybe find some prices, i'd greatly appreciate it. i've thought of just running a switch for the power, but i like the relay idea better, same with my running lights.
 

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Yea, How much would you charge for the relay setup, and the switch setup. How about some diagrams.
Shane
 

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Yeh, I like one of the previous questions. How much does the Electric locker cost???? <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">
 

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the rear is like $740, and the FJ-80 front hi-pinion is like $650 (prices might be different/reversed). i think they only come with up to 4.56 gears, so then you'd have to add in 4.88 or 5.29 depending on what you run. rumor has it they came with 4.88 gears, but no one can seem to find the part numbers.
 

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I was able get a front high pinion 3rd w/ elec. locker for $550 (used, of course), but haven't come across any for less. I think $650 to $750 is more the norm.
 
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