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Whadda ya think guys? Would this work? I'm swapping a front Toyota axle into the rear of my Zook for rear steering & was thinking of tapping into my Toyota PS box & driving the steering back there with a rock ram set up. Would I have enough flow to do it or does it only work up front where your helping it with the steering mechanism? It would just save a bunch of work & money of a electric/hydraulic set up& might be less things to go wrong out on the trail .;)
 

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I don't think this will work. I watched a guy in a Jeep break his steering box off his frame and had to use just his Rockram to get him about 100 yards to where he could fix it. He would turn the steering wheel about 3 times before the steering would even move and when it did it would go all the way to full lock no matter what you did with the wheel. He went up the trail going from one side of the trail to the other.

Hopefully some of the hydraulic gurus will jump in and give you a better answer.

Also, at the risk of being redundant, I have a buddy of mine that has used a late 80's, early 90's Subaru XT-6 power steering unit for rear steering. These units are electric power steering pumps and can be had at junkyards for around $50. He then used the in/out part of a hydraulic winch for his left/right. This is on rockwell axles with 44" tires. It is a little slower (5 seconds lock to lock) than a good setup, but it does work. Not a bad setup if you are looking for a cheap way out.

Here is a picture of the pump:
 

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it won't work!

a rock ram works by "splitting" the hydraulic pressure of the pump with the box. - so basically if the box is needing more pressure than the the fluid is transfered to the ram because it has less resistance in it and back and forth the system works - hence the name "assist"

this is why the guy in the j**p had problems because the torn off box had little if no resistance so the fluid went there and not the ram. what was probably happening was, once the box went to full lock (max resistance) then the fluid was allowed to go to the ram. its the basic princeable off "least resistance."

as far as the pump goes, i run FULL hydraulic in the front with a 2" cylinder and a "junkyard" pump works great for me. i don't see why if setup properly it wouldn't power both an orbital steering valve for the front and a rear "lever" valve.

almost all rear steer setups i have seen utilize a stand alone hydraulic unit (approx. $275) running a $50 ram on the housing. very clean and you don't have hoses runing up and down the length of your frame.

lastly - i've been running toyota stuff for awhile and wouldn't waste your time with putting a front axle in the rear. even with the new "long fields" and the aftermarket alloy inner axles i wouldn't rely on it, even with a low torque/horsepower motor. you always need to have ONE semi bullet proof axle. i would only use a dana 60 or larger front in the rear - and i have even seen those break under moderate wheeling in the rear.

good luck,
bryan
 
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