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Discussion Starter #762
Timings reading dead on 5 degrees with the diagnostic port jumped, pops up to 9 or so with diagnostic port not jumped :confused: mechanically I didn't change enything with the distributor or timing chain or any of that since it was running great in the old rig it was in. DID put new denso plugs, cap and rotor on it. Plug wires are oem and nearly new...

And when I said it wouldn't go over 2000 rpm earlier, that was wrong. Idling at about 800, but will not even go past 1100 or so:confused:

So far I swapped the computer with two spares, and no change. Swapped in spare igniter/coil and no change. Swapped in a spare resister, no change. Swapped in a spare AFM and that allowed it to actually start up. Tomorrow I'll see about getting another O2 sensor on, and get something to measure fuel pressure... Getting frustrating though:mad3:
 

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my list for you Chris is as follows:
1. fuel pressure check
2. O2
3. then give up on being diagnostic and start swapping parts from DD one part at a time!

Shit is aggravating as hell, sorry man. That 1100RPM max is really suspect....does it just lean out and die above that throttle opening? Engine is not getting enough fuel for the amount of air. big vacuum leaks (try spraying carb cleaner around everything, plug brake booster hose, triple check vacuum hose routing, etc.) Or maybe still an AFM problem..... or ......
 

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Discussion Starter #765
my list for you Chris is as follows:
1. fuel pressure check
2. O2
3. then give up on being diagnostic and start swapping parts from DD one part at a time!

Shit is aggravating as hell, sorry man. That 1100RPM max is really suspect....does it just lean out and die above that throttle opening? Engine is not getting enough fuel for the amount of air. big vacuum leaks (try spraying carb cleaner around everything, plug brake booster hose, triple check vacuum hose routing, etc.) Or maybe still an AFM problem..... or ......
Yeah, 1 and 2 I will do tomorrow. I have triple checked vaccuum line routing, and all vacuum lines are brand new. I did notice if I unplug the vacuum line going into the fuel pressure regulator it idles up a little, but doesn't run any better. I do have another regulator I can swap in, but I'll start by checking fuel pressure first. The spare regulator is from the old engine, and same regulator that was on the truck last year with this same symptom, so I don't see that necessarily being it.

Really hard to start as well, takes quite a bit of cranking to get it going. Reminds me of having a bad thermo-time switch, but that is new or near new...

Find out more tomorrow I guess, or at least maybe rule a few more things out...
 

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just an FYI there are 2 temp sensors on a 22re ones for the computer one for the gauge. It's hard to say for sure from pic but that plug isn't used on any if the 22res I have.
 

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have u contacted the builder of that engine?
the engine has miles on it, he got to hear it run before he bought it. problem is definitely a gremlin with his truck/components. Truck has *always cranked a long time before firing and the old engine shut-off during KOH 16. something deeper seated is wrong with system(s) in the truck.
 

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the engine has miles on it, he got to hear it run before he bought it. problem is definitely a gremlin with his truck/components. Truck has *always cranked a long time before firing and the old engine shut-off during KOH 16. something deeper seated is wrong with system(s) in the truck.
Que Twilight Zone music...
 

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Discussion Starter #770
Going to update this with what's been going on with the engine - open to all educated suggestions at this point. Lots of time and frustration later, and the engine is still running terribly. Symptoms currently are:

Sometimes (seldom) starts up right away. Most of the time it takes a bit of cranking to get it to start up. Once running, idle is between 750 and 800, but stumbles and sounds like a cylinder is missing. Running really rich, fumy exhaust. I can rev it up past 1k now, but misses a lot and doesn't run well - too much throttle and it just wants to die.

To reiterate, truck ran and started great before the race last year - no known issues. Half way through Boulderdash is where it started missing and running really bad - couldn't rev it up very high, barely able to keep running, then the engine died and wouldn't restart. Running very similar to that now, so I believe the problem is with something (electrical or otherwise) that was on the truck at that time. The new engine I bought started and ran great before we pulled it from the buggy it was in. The only things actually ON this engine that were on the old engine is the throttle body and injectors (were new injectors with new seals before race last year.

Diagnostic list so far, and I know I'm forgetting quite a bit:

Noid light hooked up to each injector wire plug shows pulsing. Light is very dim and faint, but I plugged the same noid light into the injector wiring of a clean running truck and it is the exact same. Noid light is 100 times brighter if 12 volts applied directly to it from batt

Fuel pressure is at 42 psi with pump on, engine not running; and at 36 psi with engine running

Unwrapped wiring harness to look at wire colors of #1 and #3 injectors to confirm that I didn't get injector plugs mixed up when I spliced in new plugs, and they are correct

With key on, applying one probe of multimeter to each pin in injector wire plug, and other probe to ground, I get 11.75 volts for all 4 injector plugs. Batt was only at 12 or 12.5 volts when I performed this test

Swapped full throttle body out of my brothers running 22re and put it in my truck with the adjusted TPS still attached - no change

I put the old cap/rotor/plug wires back on with no change. Pulled all spark plugs to inspect, clean, and check gap. All plugs fairly clean, but all wet with fuel. #1 and #4 were darker/blacker in color, #2 and #3 very clean. Eventually pulled all plugs (brand new Denso) and replaced with the NGK plugs that were on the engine when I bought it - no change

Replaced the EFI main relay (passenger kick panel) and that seemed to make it start quicker and run a little better

Swapped fuel pressure regulator with a spare, even though fuel pressure good

Replaced in-cab EFI/IGN/Engine fuses with brand new fuses

I unplugged the middle computer plug and applied 12 volts to the wiring plug pin for the knock sensor, and hooked the knock sensor engine-side plug to an old rock light with a bulb in it, and grounded light - light powers up, telling me the knock sensor wire is not broken. After that I replaced the knock sensor with a spare, but no change. I did that because the engine didn't run any different when I unplugged the knock sensor. Not sure if grounded shielding to KS wire could be an issue, not sure how to test that or how it works.

If I jump the two terminals of the diagnostic plug, the engine idles down. Also tested and am getting voltage at the TPS plug. TPS is new as of a year or so ago, but may not be dialed in to exact specs. Runs no differently now as opposed to when we had my brother's throttle body/TPS on though...

Then to reiterate what was done previously:

2 spare computers have been swapped in, 2 spare igniter/coil packs, replacing AFM seemed to make it run better, resister was swapped with a spare, can't find any grounds that aren't hooked up. Battery is grounded to the frame in the back of the truck, and I have a 14ga ground wire from batt (-) to a junction point next to the block. Block is grounded to frame at that junction point, as well as the upper intake. Head and valve cover are both grounded to the firewall (body is welded to the frame) and to each other. Ground above alternator is bolted to the power steering pump. Ground on passenger fender is good, ground on driver fender is now just inside the cab and is bolted up.

In the L shaped fuse box under the hood, I swapped out the 30 and 40 amp fuses with the ones in my brothers truck even though they look fine. They are labelled AM1 and AM2 - not sure what exactly they're for. The 80 amp fuse under there looks fine but I have not swapped that out (couldn't get it out without breaking it). I'm going to pick up new fuses there and replace all three of them just because.

I welded in a new flex joint for the exhaust, so exhaust is all sealed and leak free from header to tail pipe.

Lots of time, here - suggestions would be more than welcome. I'm sure I'm forgetting a bunch of other testing that was done... Another day or two, and I'm just going to drag it over to a shop to diagnose. I just really don't want to end up with a huge bill for diagnostic work if it's at all possible. Build a race truck, they said:laughing::shaking::mad3:
 

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it sounds like the exact thing my truck was doing and it ended up being the O2 sensor on the exhaust manifold. Couldn't remember if you change that. Hopefully it helped!
 

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Discussion Starter #772
Also swapped in a spare coil/igniter that I have, and tried the coil igniter out of my brother's running truck with no change.

Swapped his 'air box' below the intake (has two coolant lines and two air hoses and a sensor connected to it) because my engine seemed to idle up a little with carb cleaner sprayed on it. I cleaned and sealed mine with RTV and re-installed, but didn't notice any difference.

ALL hoses and coolant lines on the engine are brand spanking new, including vacuum lines. I put a vacuum gauge on it and it's only pulling about 14 psi, when I believe it should have 18-19? If I step on the brakes with the engine running, it dies almost immediately though.

EGR is currently blocked off at the intake to cancel that out...

And just another data point, but it I unplug the vacuum line going to my fuel pressure regulator, it idles up quite a bit and seems to run better, which is why I swapped in the spare regulator I have, even though fuel pressure is within spec. Also swapped in the sensor (mounted to valve cover) that is inline with the vacuum line from intake to regulator from my brother's truck, with no change.

Timing is set to 5* with the diagnostic port jumped, and 12 (think that's where it's at?) unjumped...

I've learned a thing or two throughout this process, so yay for me:flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #773
it sounds like the exact thing my truck was doing and it ended up being the O2 sensor on the exhaust manifold. Couldn't remember if you change that. Hopefully it helped!
They didn't have any Denso O2 sensors when I went to get one, but I got a Bosch and swapped that in - didn't change anything? Probably will go ahead and order a Denso and keep the Bosch as a spare. When the engine is running, there is no difference at all if I unplug the O2 sensor...
 

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Discussion Starter #774
Also, old fuel was all pumped out and replaced with 10 gallons of fresh fuel from Costco (they get fuel delivered daily) before I even fired it up. Should be fine, but I was worried that maybe a gallon or two of old fuel didn't get picked up and was tainting the fresh, so I threw in a half bottle of Lucasoil fuel treatment, then another 5 gallons of fresh fuel...

All starting to seem like voodoo at this point:homer:
 

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it sounds like the exact thing my truck was doing and it ended up being the O2 sensor on the exhaust manifold.
I've had the same issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #776
Isn't bad O2 sensor supposed to throw a code? I've got no codes stored - blinks 1 for normal.

Just ordered a Denso O2 sensor that should be able to be picked up tomorrow, so I'll try another one tomorrow...
 

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" ...because my engine seemed to idle up a little with carb cleaner sprayed on it. I cleaned and sealed mine with RTV and re-installed, but didn't notice any difference."

hm, sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere. Spray other areas besides the carb and see what happens. i had this in my '65 Mustang in HS...turned out to be situated in the intake manifold. The engine I bought had been rebuilt...They milled one side of the heads but not the others so the there was a larger gap than usual for the intake. I know...V8 vs I4 but the concept is the same :p
 

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Let me preface this by noting that im not a yota guy by any means. But, is it normal for these engines to have the o2 sensor on 1 tube, and not past the collector where the sensor could read the average from all tubes? Is that the factory location for the sensor? I seem to remember that the factory calibrates an 02 sensor for a specific location and temperature range, so if you are too close to the head or too far away you may have problems.

Love following you guys at KOH, good luck!
 
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