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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have been told 2 different ways to clear the driverside back u-bolt on my 84 Yota with waggy 44044 springs on the front. Stock steering, stock drag link, stock steering arms.

#1 Virgil from Foothill told me to press out the socket on the j-arm and just flip the draglink.

#2 Shane(rudezuk) Told me to heat up the j-arm and bend it to clear the u-bolt, then weld some flatbar to it to strengthen it back up.

What do you guys think?

Hysteer and x-over are on the back burner until I can replinish the accounts after taking the big hit on the new tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Stock draglink, I was thinking flipping the ball as well, seems more safe to me, it will only be a pavement pounder until I can get the x-over setup.
 

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you may want to just grab a cheap drop draglink out of the adds here.

save some headache and it worked fine for me when i was having a similar issue.
 

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You missed my post about two weeks back. With the ball flipped the drag link ends up hitting and denting the shit out of the shock :mad: Trust me I know! Do a search before you go through all the trouble, then, if you're still interested in doing it PM me I have a flipped J- arm and modified drag link (they were on my truck for one trip around the block:eek: )........Hans
 

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I had a pavement pounder about 10 years ago with the flipped ball on the J-arm with the drop draglink and it worked just like the stock steering did. I had no problems with shock body contact and it had triples on the front.
 

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jam76 said:
I had a pavement pounder about 10 years ago with the flipped ball on the J-arm with the drop draglink and it worked just like the stock steering did. I had no problems with shock body contact and it had triples on the front.
Ok, I can believe that. Your triple shock mount probably leans the top of the shocks out some (enough to create clearence at the shock body) where the stock mounts lean the shocks way inwards, right up against the drag link end.
 

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Back in the day... I cut the stock drag link in half, sleeved it with some 3/4 id I think pipe, welded it back, and then bent it about 2 inches from the back end. Was super easy and stout.
 

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One shock stayed in the stock location and two on the out side of it, the kit was made by Confer . I have a pics but no red star....
 

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k5chevyblazer said:
Will the drop draglink clear the u-bolts? if so, I might just go that route.

yes, i had some prings rearched and added a leaf and had the contact problem, i had to buy a dropped link fom those NWOR bastids :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well got the j-arm cut and flipped and the drag link rotated and it is all beefed up too. Looks like it will hold for a couple months. It is dysFunctional, but hey, thats why I am in there group. :flipoff2: :beer:
 
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