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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm kinda new to this forum but have been around the block once or twice.

I usually hang out at another site, but just can't get anyone there with any real knowledge except being able to bolt shit on out of the box.

I'm building my own custom suspension with 7" springs for my ZJ with 35''s. I'm in the process of building up a HP30 with a custom truss, coil buckets and control arm mounts. I'm also putting WJ knuckles on for bigger brakes and crossover steering.

My question is regarding the trac bar and it's overall length. I'm kicking some ideas around and was contemplating putting the track bar mount right on the truss and someone mentioned that you should keep the trac bar as long as possible.

I want to put the trac bar inboard of the spring and it will be quite a bit shorter than the factory or aftermarket bars that mount in the factory location.

Does anyone have some input regarding the over all length of the trac bar and whether or not a shorter bar will cause any issues?

Thanks in advance, please go easy on the new guy. Ayight?
 

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The trackbar needs to be as long as possible. The axle will move in a circular plane (is that the correct terminology?), and when the passanger side droops, it will pull the axle towards the drivers side. If the track bar is very short, the change will be drastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Yeah, I know all about keeping them as parallel as possible.

I have seen several that are mounted up higher inboard of the coil spring so I doubt it's going to be an issue.

I found this pic after I posted.

TNT Customs has what I'm after, except that I'm going to build my own to save some coin:

 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
This isn't a dedicated trail rig or else I'd have no problem cutting the fenders.

It's more of a DD and I want to keep it looking relatively stock. Like I said in my original post, I've been around the block before and know how to build a trail rig and a low COG is your friend.

It's my choice to build it this way this time and I'm sticking to it.

Here is how it sits now with about 5.5" of lift and adjustable short arms:

 

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The short track bar shown in the above photo will cause binding (bump steer) under heavy articulation. In a perfect world, the drag link and track bar would be the same length, so endeavor to make it a priority to keep the lengths as close to the same as possible. With the axle end of the track bar located just inside the coil, you shouldn't notice any bump steer under normal driving conditions, as long as they are parallel.
 

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7" of lift on 35's is for penis compensation. not for wheelin.
aww.. come on now. im not compensating for anything :D



anyway, i did the tnt truss and had to shorten my track bar like 5" from stock. not thinking about it, i should have just reworked the axle end mount to keep it as long as i could. i have bumpsteer, not bad, but too bad for my liking. i drive to the trails alot and back roads are not fun. sometime when i get to it ill redo it and get it back to what it was before, or as long as i can get it.

if mine were a trailer queen i wouldnt care as much. but it sees alot of street time.

so, try not to put it inboard of the coil if you can. keep it as long as possible
 

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If you are building custom coil buckets on this thing, pull the coils back centered over the axle tube or just behind it. This should give you enough room to have the track bar go infront of the spring and have something to attach to on the axle. Also if you move the springs back that inch to get them centered, it allows the axle to move forward so the tires wont hit the back of the fender well. Did this on my XJ years ago and it worked out very well for a DD and weekend warrior.

AARON
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I was already planning on moving the coils over the axle centerline to give me more tire clearance at the back of the front fenders.

I didn't even think about putting the trac bar in front of the coil but higher up. Thanks for the tip.

It's one of the reasons why I asked the question in the first place: to get someone else's perspective on something simple that I may have overlooked.

I'll have to see how much room I have in front of them after I tack on the brackets and get the WJ knuckles on with the crossover steering.

I ordered a set of these brackets from Ballistic and they are on their way:

 

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Since you say you're gonna run the WJ knuckle,
you're raising up the drag link mounting point. So... you'll
also need to raise up the track bar mounting point
to keep the two bars parallel.

I think inside the coil makes the track bar too short,
but that's up to you.

I've also used the Ballistic 3 in 1 coil mouts on my Dana 60 under my MJ
and this is how I did my Track Bar mount. I don't have high steer,
I just put the tie rod on top of my stock steering arms.

 

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lol. my best friend still runs a dana 30 on 35's :laughing: i shouldnt be laughing. he wheels every weekend and im still stuck in the garage :(
I have many friends that run 36s & 37s on Dana 30 front axle
with stock shafts and they don't break very often.

It's all about where you wheel. If you wheel on dry rocks,
that's a TOTALLY different scenerio than wheelin on slick woods trails.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It looks like your coil buckets are behind the centerline of the axle which gives even more room to mount the trac bar in front of the coil and up higher.

Any reason why you mounted them back so far other than the trac bar mount and are there any side effects to doing so?

I realize that it'll move your axle even more forward and increase your wheelbase.
 
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