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Discussion Starter #1
Awhile back i posted a topic about doing two links or one trac bar for the rear. Few responded. Would like to get more info and pics if possible. From the pics i've seen, the trac bars look like they are on a shackle at the frame mount. I don't want the axle to move for and aft but confused about the options. Help!
 

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I just built a traction bar last week for my Scout. I did a search here using "anti-wrap" and "traction bar" and found more than enough info. (Make sure to search all the tech areas - not just the IH or Gen 4x4).

I went with 3/4" heims at the axle and the top of the forward shackle, and a bushing for the bottom of the shackle where it attaches to the crossmember. I need to make a new shackle at the forward end... I am using washers to space it correctly right now :rolleyes: I also need to add a crossbrace on the traction bar about 2 inches from the axle end, so my bottom bar doesn't bend.

Here are some pics (Be warned, I am a notrious botty fabber :flipoff2:, but you wanted to see pics )





 

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Re: Re: Crossmember

uglyscout said:



Keen Eye ;)

Yep - it's what I had laying around - I didn't want to throw it out, didn't wan't to store it any longer, didn't want to move it again - So bolted it on!
Probably was a lot less work than the crossmember system I put together, and it should be plenty strong. How did you fab your perches for it...?
 

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Re: Re: Re: Crossmember

Hooper said:


Probably was a lot less work than the crossmember system I put together, and it should be plenty strong. How did you fab your perches for it...?
For the perches I welded some angle to the frame and then bolted the crossmember to it, I had to trim the crossmemebr just a touch to get it to fit as the angle decreases the wicth between the frame. I put the crossmember on top of the perches rather than bolt it to the bottom like the stock crossmember configuration.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What is the peupose of the shackle on one end? Why couldn't you just use [poly bushings at the axle end and a single 3/4 heim bolted to tabs at the crossmember end? Does it need to move a little hence the shackle?
 

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Spring Arch

Brawler said:
What is the peupose of the shackle on one end? Why couldn't you just use [poly bushings at the axle end and a single 3/4 heim bolted to tabs at the crossmember end? Does it need to move a little hence the shackle?
When your spring flattens, it pushes the axle rearward. The arc of the spring moves it away, plus the horizontal length of the spring elongates. Without a shackle, the anti wrap bar will try to keep the axle from moving rearward. You end up bending your spring, limiting your articulation, or ripping the upper mount off, or all of the above.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So how long of a shackle do you use? I have read a lot of info and gotten some great pics but i want to do this once and do it right and also do it myself. Could i get away with copying the length of my spring shackles? Thanks!
 

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uglyscout said:


I went with 3/4" heims at the axle and the top of the forward shackle, and a bushing for the bottom of the shackle where it attaches to the crossmember.
seems like you could get the same range of motion at a cheaper price if you ran one hiem at the top of the shackle and bushings at the axle?? other than that. I like the stock cross member, do you have pics in the side view that shows how long you made the bar?
 

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Brawler said:
So how long of a shackle do you use? I have read a lot of info and gotten some great pics but i want to do this once and do it right and also do it myself. Could i get away with copying the length of my spring shackles? Thanks!
Long enough that your axle can get the whole range of motion on the springs.

If you take the flat measurement of you springs (eye to eye) and subtract the full droop eye to eye this will tell you how long your shackles need to be. Basically the spring can't ever get longer than it is when flat. and wont get shorter than at full droop. longest minus shortest=travel
 

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Axle Movement

Brawler said:
So how long of a shackle do you use? I have read a lot of info and gotten some great pics but i want to do this once and do it right and also do it myself. Could i get away with copying the length of my spring shackles? Thanks!
You can figure it out empirically. Just crank your frame down toward the axle, and measure how far back the axle runs...

It does not move that much, if you keep your anti wrap bar close to the line of the driveline, so it follows the arc of the springs. I used spring shackles for mine, since I had them lying around, and I figured the shackle would move less then the shackle, since the shackle has to account for both sides of the spring flattening, but the anti wrap bar only needs to account for one side.
 

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Bushings

troutbum said:


seems like you could get the same range of motion at a cheaper price if you ran one hiem at the top of the shackle and bushings at the axle?? other than that. I like the stock cross member, do you have pics in the side view that shows how long you made the bar?
Heims are cheap. And, they have better side deflection than bushings. Plus, they are adjustable....
 

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Re: Bushings

Hooper said:


Heims are cheap. And, they have better side deflection than bushings. Plus, they are adjustable....
Good hiems are not cheap, I bushings run 13.00 a set. hiems do have better side deflection than bushings, but one in the system (at the top of the shackle) gets all the defelction you will need (with the misalignment spacer). As for the adjustable part... they are still adjustable from the top :flipoff2: Besides that is what a tape measure is for :rolleyes:

I would be surprised if you are getting all of one hiem's travel in a leaf sprung rear suspension

I don't think it is wrong, just over engineered.
 

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Overengineered

troutbum said:


Good hiems are not cheap, I bushings run 13.00 a set. hiems do have better side deflection than bushings, but one in the system (at the top of the shackle) gets all the defelction you will need (with the misalignment spacer). As for the adjustable part... they are still adjustable from the top :flipoff2: Besides that is what a tape measure is for :rolleyes:

I would be surprised if you are getting all of one hiem's travel in a leaf sprung rear suspension

I don't think it is wrong, just over engineered.
Indubitably. But, folks told me an antiwrap bar would limit my travel, and I wanted to prove them wrong. I did.

They are somewhat adjustable from the top, but not *as* adjustable. $13 a set is about right. So, $39 total.... Heck, I spent more than that in spray paint for the White Ghost.... ;)
 

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Re: Overengineered

Hooper said:


$13 a set is about right. So, $39 total....
you paid 13 for bushings or hiems?? If you got your hiems for 13.00 a pair, then I hope you carry a six pack of replacements :nuke:

Good hiems run 40-50 bucks each
 

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Re: Re: Overengineered

troutbum said:


you paid 13 for bushings or hiems?? If you got your hiems for 13.00 a pair, then I hope you carry a six pack of replacements :nuke:

Good hiems run 40-50 bucks each
??? These are aggy heims. Over a year now and no problems at all, and yes I have been known to hit the trail pretty hard on occasion.... $13 or so was for the heim, and I think $1 each for the nuts... Remember, these are not steering heims, don't need any precision in these....
 

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Re: Re: Re: Overengineered

Hooper said:


??? These are aggy heims. Over a year now and no problems at all, and yes I have been known to hit the trail pretty hard on occasion.... $13 or so was for the heim, and I think $1 each for the nuts... Remember, these are not steering heims, don't need any precision in these....

Ditto - mine are standard heims (Radial load rating of 14,000lbs +/-) nothing fancy and nothing I'd run on a steering component or on a true suspension link. I think I paid about a little less than $14.00 a piece with a jam nut shipped to my door.

And yes I could have used bushings at the axle end - but I figured if I was going to build it myself why not insure that I was not going to be limiting travel at all. And with heims I did get a little extra adjustability, which with my fab skills is also neccisary!


As for the overall length of the bar I'll get that measurement when the sun comes up and I find some pants...


***Got the measurement - 42" for the top of the bar, from heim to heim. It is attached to a crossmember about a foot back from the tranny crossmember.***
 
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