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Does anyone have any information on the life expectancy on the 2.0L suzuki engine's timing chain? I am debating on tearing into the engine to replace the chain/guides just at a preventative maintenance but I really don't feel like it. I am hesitant on what to do because I have not found much info on them failing. Right now the engine has 125,000 orig miles and to my knowledge has had regular oil changes since 60,000 miles which is when our family bought it. Any information would be great.
 

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isn't the 2.0 similar design to the 1.6? If it is, I'd say just do it if you question it at all.
 

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usualy they rattle when first start up in the morning .. my 2.0 start to rattle at 120k and my 1.8 lasted to 190k without a rattle . its the tensioner that go out causing the chain to slap the guide .. goodluck
 

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isn't the 2.0 similar design to the 1.6? If it is, I'd say just do it if you question it at all.
No... the 1.8 and the 2.0 are dual over head cam engines with timing chains and tensioners where as the 1.6 engines are single over head cam with a timing belt and pulley tensioner...
Kelly
 

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I think they recommend a tensioner/timing chain service at 100km just to be safe. Lee Engine sells a Japanese kit. Just replace it to be safe. Suzuki also recomments 5w30 oil to prevent tensioner wear at startup.
 

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the 1.8, 2.0 and 2.3 are interference engines. Change the timing components because if they break, you WILL be removing the head and replacing bent valves and possibly bust a piston. Its fairly cheap insurance. I've seen it first hand. Also, make sure you use a 5w30 or 10w30 oil, any thicker and it doesn't circulate through the small passages in the engine and timing chain tensioners causing premature failure.
 

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Timing chain

The timing chains are used by manufacturers to eliminate the need for the timing belt service...however infrequent oil changes can accelerate timing chain guide wear ( usually nylon) and the tensioner can start leaking down causing a rattle. If it isnt making a rattle on start up id leave it alone. I am a mechanic with 15 yrs of import experience.
 

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Wtf

tippyoffkilter:13819946 said:
the 1.8, 2.0 and 2.3 are interference engines. Change the timing components because if they break, you WILL be removing the head and replacing bent valves and possibly bust a piston. Its fairly cheap insurance. I've seen it first hand. Also, make sure you use a 5w30 or 10w30 oil, any thicker and it doesn't circulate through the small passages in the engine and timing chain tensioners causing premature failure.
the viscosity is the ability of the oil to flow at a given temp and not the thickness really, the oil molecule is about the same size regardless of the weight of oil.
 

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The timing chains are used by manufacturers to eliminate the need for the timing belt service...however infrequent oil changes can accelerate timing chain guide wear ( usually nylon) and the tensioner can start leaking down causing a rattle. If it isnt making a rattle on start up id leave it alone. I am a mechanic with 15 yrs of import experience.
Really I've never seen a timing chain break.:shaking:
you need to remember this is not gonna be used to get Grand ma to Bingo.
I think replacing the timing chain in a motor you don't know the maintenance records of, is cheap insurance
 

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Its very common for that particular engine to throw the chain. I believe chevrolet has a tecnical service bullitin on the issue. I have seen some go at 30k and some last to 200k. They believe it due to improper oil viscosities..

Their was a write up on zukikrawlers a while ago that discussed it in depth.
Their great little motors if you pay strict attention to them. I would replace it and keep a good maintance plan going and you should be fine. If it goes it takes at a minimum a couple valves or at worst a block or head..
 

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wtf II

the viscosity is the ability of the oil to flow at a given temp and not the thickness really, the oil molecule is about the same size regardless of the weight of oil.
you're telling me that 20w50 oil flows the same as 5w30? I call bullshit! 20w50 is like syrup coming out of a bottle therefore it takes more effort and time to get to where it needs to go. Also, ford changed to a 5w20 oil to increase fuel economy(not by much) because it takes the engine less effort to move the oil around.

If it were mine, id change it! I've been a domestic car mechanic for 15yrs myself. Better safe than sorry!
 

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you're telling me that 20w50 oil flows the same as 5w30? I call bullshit! 20w50 is like syrup coming out of a bottle therefore it takes more effort and time to get to where it needs to go. Also, ford changed to a 5w20 oil to increase fuel economy(not by much) because it takes the engine less effort to move the oil around.

If it were mine, id change it! I've been a domestic car mechanic for 15yrs myself. Better safe than sorry!
Read what he wrote again dumbass.:shaking:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Due to the cost and time involved, I have decided its in my best interest to change it. I'm sure I'll be reving the shit out of the engine on snowy hill climbs and the engine should be the last thing I am worrying about.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
FYI the engine has rattled on cold starts since it had 100k miles on it. I always ran 10w30 with 1pt of Lucas oil and changed the oi every 3k. I figure with 125k on the engine it's time for a timing kit.
 

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Ditch the Lucas. It has no place in a good engine.
i do agree with this.

Lucus makes some good products, but if there isnt anything wrong with the engine, don't use it. Just change your oil on a regular basis. If you want some extra protection for your engine, run a good synthetic oil. I use AMSOIL myself, and been doing so for years.
 
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