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Discussion Starter #1
Ok here's the deal
I have an 89 XJ with a 9" (4:88's) in the rear
My Re 1462 leaf springs went to sh*t (S shaped) in less than 1 month (kinda)
I've had them on for about 9 months but in the last month they took a dive, they went from a solid 5 1/2" of lift to almost flat and S shaped in 30 days.
I would like to remedy this.....
My question is where to start? If anyone knows me, they know I carried LOTS of stuff in my rig

Well, I'm not doing that anymore.... I've started breaking U-joints and driveline parts. So, do I start by replacing the leafspring pads with longer ones or go right to a traction bar.

Is there anyone here using the Bam Bar http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/bambar

Thanks for the info
 

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I made my own bambar.

It seems to work pretty well in the tests that I've done in the yard and on the street.

I can give you an update on my next trail run. This is on a fullsize truck with a 4 speed and 38.5s. I can smoke my tires off on the street with no wheel hop at all.

I would suggest you get all that crap out of your trail rig and put it on the trailer where it belongs. There is absolutely no reason to have all that crap in your trail rig.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Your right about the weight....
That was for 3 people and 7 days of wheelin
 

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That's awesome that you got to go on a 7 day trail run. I'd love to do such a thing myself.

You still got to ditch all that crap though. :flipoff2: Did you bring the kitchen sink, too? :confused:
 

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The bambar is essentially a single link traction bar, it still rely's on the forward end of the springs to stop wrap, not a good idea since they are designed to flex. Dont bother with longer perches either, they dont work. Go strait for a ladder type bar, its simple, cheap, and proven to work. Save yourself some headaches, time, and money.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tim84K10 said:
That's awesome that you got to go on a 7 day trail run. I'd love to do such a thing myself.

You still got to ditch all that crap though. :flipoff2: Did you bring the kitchen sink, too? :confused:
No Kitchen sink........ :flipoff2: But I do bring an Expresso maker :D
 

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Did you check with RE one this? It seems to me that if they went bad that fast, they might help you.


I agree with the other posts though, you have way too much gear in that rig. The RE springs are soft. I've been running my 1462's for about 4 1/2 years. I still have full lift empty, but if I load that thing down, it will lose alot of clearance. I have no problems with axle wrap though...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No warranty because it's due to axle wrap
 

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bam bar is a no-no jsut as kwrangln said. There are good explanations of it if you search. There is nothing wrong with the typical ladder type traction bar. Just make it long enough to not get crazy anti-squat.



leaf spring pads won't do anything, but new ones with center pins that fit snuggly in them is a good idea.

I have Re1462's as well. I removed the smallest leaf...and added the 2nd largest leaf from a cherokee up-country pack in it. They do well with a moderate load...but if you keep going with what you ahve, things will die quickly.

Get the BIGoffroad leafs if you want to carry all that equipment, and still put on a traction bar. _nicko_
 

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Ok, so lets have some general guide lines/ blueprints on how to make one.
Some questions I have are:
1) How long to make it? should I just mount the crossmember next to the spring hanger and go to the axle, or is there some geometry to keep in mind to avoid binding.
2) How long should the shackle be? Same as the others I would assume but I could be missing something.
Any other tips on building?
Thanx
 

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ok, about the traction bar length....you will read mixed opinions about this, but this is what I have from it.

Do not mount your traction bar in line with the front leaf spring hanger. People do this to minimize bind, which it will do. BUT it has 2 major drawbacks.

1) spring fatigue. Since the traction bar is mounted on one side of the diff, and not directly in the middle...the traction bar will droop with the axle, and make the pinion follow whatever droop occurs. With that short of a bar, pinion change will be tremendous. I don't think it's so bad that it will hurt u-joints, but it will s-shape your springs under flex. Look up pictures of wanderingwillys traction bar. he has pictures of his showing this s-shaping.....that is not spring wrap in the pictures...that if directly the cause of the traction bar. He made his long enough, but he mounted it way towards the end of the axle tube causing the traction bar to droop more under flex, and cause the same problem.

2) anti-squat. With a really short bar...it will be pointing up a lot making the anti-squat quite large. This isn't really a good feature. if you can make it short and level, you should be good, but when you do that, you loose a ton of ground clearance. So the best way to make it more parallel to the ground is to make it longer.

shackle length....it doesn't need to be that long, but I would make it as long as you can fit as for it to not have enough travel. Point it up if possible too, but it works pointed down as well.

wow, didn't notice I typed so much, and I don't feel like sifting through it and deleting stuff. hopefully it helps you a bit. _nicko_
 

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Sorry to highjack the thread but....

I guess my basic question is if I buy the MORE bar as a "bolt on " solution as opposed to building my own, and later decide to get longer springs (waggys) will I still be able to use the MORE bar? Does anyone have this setup? (I understand I'll need to move the cross member to keep the bar as level as possible)
 

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I made own as well. Seems to work. I've only done one 4x4 trip since I built but it worked. you want to mount it as close to the center of the axle as possible. the longer the better and make sure you make a cross member stout enough to hold up to the extreme amount of load applied to it. My shackle points hangs down from the traction bar to the shackle mount. It's also about as short of shackle as I can get just over 4" center to center. I think. some friends run the sams bar which works fine but will fail under heavy use. The bushings mounted to the axle rip out of the sleeves that hold them. If you buy one get a heavy duty one. I made mine out of 1 1/4" x 1/4" wall and 1 1/4x 3/8" wall DOM it weighs almost 50lbs. without the shackle but it should not break or bend. But We'll see. There's done's of pics of different styles on here. check it out.
 
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