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I'm building a 3-link rear susp. and need to know where I can get the BIG ASS tractor rod ends like on WelderBoy's rig. I went to Kabota in Penryn and they didn't have anything beef enough then I went to a tractor/trailer repair shop (also in Penryn) and they didn't either. Oh and what to ask for, all I have been saying is show me the biggest rod end you got. Does anyone know any place around the Rocklin area, I also travel to Chico frequently so anywhere around there will do as well.

thanks

[ 10-23-2001: Message edited by: ToyFamily ]
 

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around here, TSC - www.tractorsupplyco.com - is where I get the easiest...

But why? Their joints may be huge, but their fit and quality is JUNK, and they wear out faster than you can replace them.
 

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Toy,

Fisco in Chico has stuff. The best places
I've seen for tractor links (complete top-
arm assemblies) are places that set-up alot
of tractors with Gannon-rear scraper boxes.
they equip the gannon-boxes with top-link
hydro cylinders, so they have lots of those
stock top links to sell cheap. The Massey-
Fergeson dealer on Tully Ave in San Jose is
a good source to try. Or in Sac, there's a
large tractor dealer near hwy50 I think.

good luck, but those tractor links when used
for 4x4's wear kinda fast, and would be not-
even close to DOT approved for street use...

--Sherpa
 

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Discussion Starter #5
BigAss tractor store huh, must have missed that one. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I just need one for the top link so I can adjust the pinion angle if/when I make changes, the other joints are johnny joints.
 

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Originally posted by DRM:
<STRONG>around here, TSC - www.tractorsupplyco.com - is where I get the easiest...

But why? Their joints may be huge, but their fit and quality is JUNK, and they wear out faster than you can replace them.</STRONG>

DRM, there you go talking again about something you have no real firsthand experience with. I am runing them in my Flatty, and have not heard a bang, rattle or roll yet. They have about 5 or so trips on them, and they are still holding stroing. Why go buy these heims for 40-50 a piece when you can get this one for $20 for a pair???? If one goes bad, I unscrew them, and screw a new one in. Takes me about 10 minutes MAX!!!! I have landed the entire weight of my truck on them, and they still hold strong. no bend or Break. I got mine in san Jose. I can pick a few up fore you next time I a down there, which is quite often, and drop them off next time I am in sac, which is quite often as well.

Dimitri
 

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Originally posted by Flatty:
<STRONG>
DRM, there you go talking again about something you have no real firsthand experience with. I am runing them in my Flatty, and have not heard a bang, rattle or roll yet. They have about 5 or so trips on them, and they are still holding stroing. Why go buy these heims for 40-50 a piece when you can get this one for $20 for a pair???? If one goes bad, I unscrew them, and screw a new one in. Takes me about 10 minutes MAX!!!! I have landed the entire weight of my truck on them, and they still hold strong. no bend or Break. I got mine in san Jose. I can pick a few up fore you next time I a down there, which is quite often, and drop them off next time I am in sac, which is quite often as well.

Dimitri</STRONG>
First of all, I would bet I have handled more of them on tractors by the time I was 12 than you have probably thought of using, so don't tell me I don't know what I am talking about <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

Secondly, I have several friends who are redneck enough to use them for link suspensions and I watch them wear out FAST and get thrown away and replaced far too often to make the pittiful up=front cost savings worth the long term $$$$ LOSS.

So how about you get more than 5 rides on yours and then get back to me when you are replaceing those JUNKY ends with something that will actually last... <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 

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BTW - Flatty, <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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So DRM, tell me what would last on that setup? I have seen other heims break where mine just LAUGHED at them. We are not doing 1/4 mile drags through the mud and dirt, we are running slow speed rockcrawling where the sheer force of the setup lasts all day long. you are right, and I would not run them for a daily driver, but they work AMAZING on the rocks. Like I said, for the price, you can't beat that setup. You spend all the moey up front, and i will spend the same amount of money on mine over the next 5 years. I thionk it is worthwhile doing that. I feel that the cost savings I get now is worth having to replace them once every 5 or so years.

Dimtiri

BTW <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/massey.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/massey.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Flatty:
So DRM, tell me what would last on that setup?

For starters not using heims on all of the end links and using poly or rubber in a captive buyshing type setup would reduce vibration and wear on all of the parts, amking any joints you do use last longer.

I have seen other heims break where mine just LAUGHED at them.

So are you comparing smaller joints to yours? Or are you comparing joints of the same price range? Keep it apples to apples, etc. for fair comparisons there...

We are not doing 1/4 mile drags through the mud and dirt, we are running slow speed rockcrawling where the sheer force of the setup lasts all day long.

Who said anything about mud drags? <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

What I am talking about is extended use of ANY kind.

you are right, and I would not run them for a daily driver,

Agreed.

but they work AMAZING on the rocks.

Again, after just 5 trips (what is that - 20, 30 miles tops?) you can't really comment on long term use, can you?

Like I said, for the price, you can't beat that setup.

As I said - I would use poly or rubber where possible on the links for an even cheaper option and better wear and dampening (where applicable)

You spend all the moey up front, and i will spend the same amount of money on mine over the next 5 years. I thionk it is worthwhile doing that. I feel that the cost savings I get now is worth having to replace them once every 5 or so years.

Maybe your time to be continually checking and replacing those joints is not worth much to you - that is each person's call to make. But I have seen where quality joints are trouble free for YEARS, something you simply cannot say for the majority of those tractor quality joints.

But hey - if yuo are happy with them and they are working so far, that's cool <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">
 

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They are working for not only me, but the whole club pretty much, welderboy, and countless others. I considered going your way and running bushings, but after doing all the calculations, I found that this would work better, or so I thoughtand still think. You want to compare apples to apples cost wise??? Fine, get some 3/8" heims on htere, as they will cost close to the same, and see what will last longer. You can't compare cost wise on this one.

Dimitri
 

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Because the tractor heims are not crap. Explain how you can say something that can hold the stress of a 3000lb rig to be crap? yea, they wera out after time, but they are EASY to replace. You bring it home and swap stuff out.

Dimtiri
 

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Originally posted by Flatty:
<STRONG>Because the tractor heims are not crap. Explain how you can say something that can hold the stress of a 3000lb rig to be crap? yea, they wera out after time, but they are EASY to replace. You bring it home and swap stuff out.

Dimtiri</STRONG>
That's fine Dimitri - your needs are obviously different than mine. Just because it is "easy to replace" does not make them a good idea IMHO. I would prefer to make changes to create a less maintenance intensive suspension for myself.
 

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Originally posted by DRM:
<STRONG>That's fine Dimitri - your needs are obviously different than mine. Just because it is "easy to replace" does not make them a good idea IMHO. I would prefer to make changes to create a less maintenance intensive suspension for myself.</STRONG>
In your opinion is mud acclerating wear in the links, or are you attributing wear to poor manufacturing, and or materials?

My opinion, and a few of my coworkers (Mechanical Engineers that grew up on farms)
The tractor links should be fine...for a long time. I am having trouble seeing how a 3500# Jeep could exert more force/stress/wear on these links than a 12 row chisle plow, drag ect...Most farmers probably have not changed many joints on their hitches, either...
 

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I have rod ends for my track bar as do a couple of other guys in our club. Tried the tractor ones first and they are strong but they get loose real quick. We have upgraded to the actual race car ones and have had no problems with them.

For the extra $$ I would get the proper ones myself.
 

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Originally posted by LAME:
In your opinion is mud acclerating wear in the links, or are you attributing wear to poor manufacturing, and or materials?

All of the above <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

My opinion, and a few of my coworkers (Mechanical Engineers that grew up on farms)
The tractor links should be fine...for a long time. I am having trouble seeing how a 3500# Jeep could exert more force/stress/wear on these links than a 12 row chisle plow, drag ect...Most farmers probably have not changed many joints on their hitches, either...


For starters, the forces these joints see on a suspension lik for a vehicle are far different from what they see when on a tractor implement. I mean seriously - the loads on a tractor are fairly steady loads, and although they are high loads, they are no shock loads, and definately not repetative movement like when used in a suspension link.

As for wear when used on tractors - I can tell you after not much use they DO wear, and most tractors you check you will find these joints are SUPER sloppy - but when used as a top link on a box grader or a plow for example, the joints being really sloppy doesn;t matter for squat compared to what happens when you have a sloppy joint in a vehicle suspension.
 

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Originally posted by DRM:

All of the above <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">



For starters, the forces these joints see on a suspension lik for a vehicle are far different from what they see when on a tractor implement. I mean seriously - the loads on a tractor are fairly steady loads, and although they are high loads, they are no shock loads, and definately not repetative movement like when used in a suspension link.


Wrong tractors are snagging rocks, roots, etc with the impliments. That is quite a shock, and probably happens under higher speed than a rockcrawler. Even the load of raising the attachment is going to apply very similar loads to having a tire in the air, then suddenly landing on it. As for being repetitive, the joints will be on a tractor for decades, I'm sure by then they will have cycled as many times as a rig suspension would over the course of a few years.



As for wear when used on tractors - I can tell you after not much use they DO wear, and most tractors you check you will find these joints are SUPER sloppy - but when used as a top link on a box grader or a plow for example, the joints being really sloppy doesn;t matter for squat compared to what happens when you have a sloppy joint in a vehicle suspension.[/QB]

I'll agree with the second part <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">





Really need the :drm:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
RRRREEEEAAAR. Damn was just looking for a rod end. But bitch on <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

BTW-DRM, the rest of my set up has captive bushings and johnny joints, this will be the top link and mounted sideways.
 
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