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Discussion Starter #1
What do you call that type, "I beam"?
I need to move my front axle forward 9" and I've always thought that style was simple and tough.

I'd like to use rod ends at the axle instead of the front "clamp" and a rod end at the rear. Are there any good working setup's that anyone can show me.

On a related note I've tried searching the forum and I can't search a 2 word term it will find each word and rarely both. I've often seen the quote "Buy a star and search :flipoff2:"

Does a star get better search results?

Thanks, Mud
 

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You're thinking of radius arms...I-beam suspension refers to the 2wd axle beams. Twin Traction beams or TTB are the 4wd version of this.

Anyways, space may become an issue if you do rod ends on the axle for the radius arm mounts. Keep in mind you still have to place coils and a trac-bar mount. Keep it simple and just run it stock style and extend the radius arms with Johnny Joints or rod ends at the frame mounts and call it done.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply DB 1
I've been searching the site and gathering questions.

I see where some rigs use a radius arm on one side and a single link on the other. As I understand it, that this will let the diff rotate to get further flex?

Is this a sturdy set up?

I've seen the radius arm mounted on ether the long or short side. Any theory behind witch side to mount it on.

Thanks, Mud
 

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You are looking at a 3 link, it's slightly more complicated then 'radius arm and a single link' . If done correctly they are great set ups many here swear by them
 

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Look at TDmayfields build for his 79 bronco, he did a 3 link on his front axle. That should be what you are looking for.
 

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Look at TDmayfields build for his 79 bronco, he did a 3 link on his front axle. That should be what you are looking for.
'3 link' He has radius arms with an adjustable top link, he pull one out, gets the job done. But If your really thinking 3 link look at 150s or fordx4 offroads thread, I believe that whiterhino had a 3 link in his build thread, I know there are a few othersfloating arund. I think tdmayfield was saying that this set up is not as effective as a linked set up but with the one top link out it does flex better because it is more like a 3 link at that point.
OP Just realize if you are going to link there are some calculations and things to look into so you can have all the numbers rght
 

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What you're talking about Mudtrux is a wristed radius arm on one side and a regular radius arm on other side which is different from a three link. You get very good articulation from the wristed arm, but the whole time the torque on the axle housing on the wristed side is trying to twist the axle tube out of the 3rd member. Have seen it happen and swapped the wristed arm for longer radius arms with a heim only on the frame end. I hear that all heims on the radius arms makes for rattling joints. Still get good flex from the longer arms.

Good luck with your build!
 

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Check out DuffTuff.com for Extended Radius arms w/Heim. They also offer the wedges for the axle, coil cups, track bars, brackets etc. Do google or Utube search for James Duff and you can see them in action. They twist up pretty darn good.




Thanks for the reply DB 1
I've been searching the site and gathering questions.

I see where some rigs use a radius arm on one side and a single link on the other. As I understand it, that this will let the diff rotate to get further flex?

Is this a sturdy set up?

I've seen the radius arm mounted on ether the long or short side. Any theory behind witch side to mount it on.

Thanks, Mud
 

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Technically a radius arm. I just call it a 3 link when I take one of the tops off
 

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These are very tough and easy to set up. They are cut from flat steel with internal bracing. Check out www.battlementfab.com


Good flex and very stable at speed.



I've been told that heims at both ends of a radius arm is not good. Get bushings at the axle and heims at the frame.

As with any suspension it's all in the set up. If you are building a radius arm or 3-link you will need a panhard bar to keep the axle located left to right under the rig. Getting this bar properly located is supremely important. It should be as close to horizontal as possible at right height, be as long as you can get it ,and
be as close to parallel with your steering drag link as possible.
 

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everybody i know who ran a wristed radius arm setup ditched it. they are REALLY good at bending the non-wristed arm when the front end gets bound up (or twisting the tube out of the housing). they also handle terribly when the wrist pin/link is out.

regular radius arms are great, they still use them on the Super Dutys. just remember, when it comes to articulation, a radius arm front setup is essentially a giant sway bar.
 
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